What to do with a 1028 Stainlees?

I have a Kamasori 7/8 1028 stainless to sharpen, I've tried to bevel the thing but it just want take. I've black magic markered it, and on one side it dissappers but on the other I can see where the bevel stops and there is a thin line of marker visable. Also when I run my finger nail down the edge I feel all these little micro chips all down the razor This razor is not mine it is a friend o f mine who lives in the wilds of Oregon and uses it to flesh out game. I would just like to get it razor sharp maybe not hair razor sharp but better than what this thing is. At least even bevel. The side where the marker is I can see clearly as I draw it to me the blade is off the stone. I have a 1k Chos, a 4k/8/ Norton and a 12k shapton ceramic. Any Ideas guys? I've never done stainless before. Thanks.

I am no expert, I will say that right u p front. Since nobody else has commented, I will throw in my 2 cents. I have 3 stainless and 3 carbon, I don't know what the stainless is but I doubt it is 1028. I found the stainless takes a little longer to set the bevel but after that I can't tell any difference.

I don't think a razor might be the ideal tool to flesh with, the edge is too fragile. If your friend had been kind to you through the years, check out Knives of Alaska's Muskrat knife for fleshing. They are fantastic cutters and D2 holds it's edge for a long time.

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Originally Posted by Brent375HH

I am no expert, I will say that right u p front. Since nobody else has commented, I will throw in my 2 cents. I have 3 stainless and 3 carbon, I don't know what the stainless is but I doubt it is 1028. I found the stainless takes a little longer to set the bevel but after that I can't tell any difference.

I don't think a razor might be the ideal tool to flesh with, the edge is too fragile. If your friend had been kind to you through the years, check out Knives of Alaska's Muskrat knife for fleshing. They are fantastic cutters and D2 holds it's edge for a long time.

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This was my thought. The razor probably just needs more work to get the microchips out and the bevel set. Beyond that, your friend probably needs a tool actually designed for the purpose. The only thing a Kamisori was designed to cut is hair, fleshing out game is a whole other ball game. Your friend would be doing himself - and you - a favor getting a proper knife designed for what he's doing, because it will hold up to the task better.

Work slowly. Stainless is an odd material. It's not all that tough, but it's far more ductile than regular steel.

This means it acts a little differently. Rather than abrading into nice shavings like high carbon steel, It likes to smear and slough off the base metal. This will make it abrade in a rather uneven fashion.

Working slower, and keeping the stone really clean should speed you up.

Coincidently it is the same way you drill stainless. Really slow drill speed, and enough pressure to bite. Speed it up and you'll cook the bit very quickly, and make absolutely no progress into the metal.

Stainless also abrades faster with harder abrasives. The Chosera will do it, but you might find a harder base material in the 4K norton is actually quicker. A 1K carborundum would be the ideal stone if you have one kicking about.

If the edge is torn up a bit with micro chips or any other chips, it may be worthwhile killing the edge to give yourself a clean straight edge from which you can be sure the chips go. As for stainless, they can take a while to pop sharp, but usually once an edge takes, it will be fine to just maintain as you would any other razor.
Thanks Bob

I agree with others, the proper tool Can work wonders, can't tell you how many Ulu's I've made from old circular saw blades that make SuPerb fleshing tools, all the Alaskan Natives can't be wrong.

Forgive me Fal, I had to crack up. Mate where I'm from there isn't much call for such things.
Getting back to straight razor shaving. It is common that older razors have pitting or microchips, unequal bevels and poor edges, as do razors recently buffed or restored. By taking the floored edge out by 'Jointing' the razor, it means less time spent on the bevel setter, and ultimately achieving your goal, a good shaving razor. As far as chopping things up and skinning them, your in the wrong place.