Cleaning up and honing a new antique store find: A.J. Jordan

It is not unusual for a razor that has pitting, for an edge to chip or break down after a couple shaves and stropping.

So, pitting may be a warning sign and something to think about and not make yourself crazy, thinking it is your technique, when the problem is the razor.

Pressure is always an issue for new guys, and something that is impossible to describe to someone in writing, other than more… or less.

And sometimes, removing just a bit off the edge, by honing the razor or jointing the edge, a few times, is all that is needed to get down to solid steel.

These are the joys of honing Vintage razors.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Euclid440

It is not unusual for a razor that has pitting, for an edge to chip or break down after a couple shaves and stropping.

So, pitting may be a warning sign and something to think about and not make yourself crazy, thinking it is your technique, when the problem is the razor.

Pressure is always an issue for new guys, and something that is impossible to describe to someone in writing, other than more… or less.

And sometimes, removing just a bit off the edge, by honing the razor or jointing the edge, a few times, is all that is needed to get down to solid steel.

These are the joys of honing Vintage razors.

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Another honing session tonight - starting back on the 1K and jointing the edge. All the way through the progression again, 1K, 3K, 8K, 12K, CrOx. I looked up and down the bevel on both sides when I was complete. Some spots look terrific and others - well I can see the pitting on the bevel and some places I can see where the pitting has caused a less than smooth edge. Obviosuly what I'm feeling on my face.

After CrOx - a pretty good spot.
Attachment 257077

Some not so good spots:
Attachment 257078

Attachment 257079

Attachment 257080

I think I need to keep working into the bevel until I find some better steel. I think I'll tape the spine and do some work on the 1K. I have a CKTG 400K plate but I think that might be overkill.

I guess you're right - that's vintage restoration work.

Adam

That looks like one of those rare candidates for less than 1k grit to my eyes. I don't like anything going on in that last picture. Especially if that's toward the toe.

My wedge put up a fight like that too. Much worse in my estimation cause hte pitting was almost off the charts. Probably shoulda just did a toe ectomy, but for some odd reason I wanted to save it. The wedge won the battle, but the war rages on...

Some theory

Your Coticule is giving a better feeling shave because it is "Hiding" the flaws of the steel, it's Scratchy finish makes the edge feel more "Even" to the face..
You might be to the point of over working that edge :(

Try a micro bevel, and see what happens, go back to the 8k refine your work add 1 layer extra of tape and finish on your Coticule strop and shave..

Do NOT look through your scope after the 8k, go by feel

(old SRP adage "My honing got much better once I started using less magnification")

You might very well have to strip down the steel looking for solid clean steel, but keep in mind that there is only so much to strip away, there is a balance on these razors some of which are over 100 years old..

This is actually where the Natural finishers shine...

I would not get too aggressive, more time on the 3/ 4k, to remove deep stria and sneak up on an edge, and go easy on the pressure, more laps less pressure.

Also, some heel forward, x strokes will better hone the heel.

Many old Sheffield’s do not respond well to high grit synthetics, as said a coticule or Thüringan may be the trick.

If you lightly, run a sharpie on the edge you will feel the slightest chip. A Qtip, also works well.

I think I will try that - I really don't want to remove more steel. I suspect this razor was made between 1905 and 1920 - so a hundred years might be right!

Thanks again.

Adam

I spent some more time on this edge last night and had a very comfortable and close shave this morning!


i lightly jointed the edge on some glass. I followed the advice here and went back to the 3K Naniwa with some pressure - circles and heel leading x-strokes for four rounds with decreasing pressure as I went along finishing on the 3K with very light to no pressure. Nice even scratch pattern and most of the edge problems seemed to have been worked out. I put away the scope and spent some zen time on the Coticule. Little slurry to start and watered down with two or three drops each time until just clear water. Circles, x-strokes, some extra work on the toe, heal leading strokes, straight strokes and a light touch all the way through -- the normal gymnastics by feel.

Nice shave this am - it's still very sharp but now quite comfortable. Thanks Glen, Euclid, Utopian and Marshal for the help!

Adam