Printable View
I managed to get an old razor quite sharp, and I shaved pretty well. However, I noticed that it skipped hairs here and there. After the shave, I notice that the toe and heel of the razor are extremely sharp, but the middle feels sharp-ish and rough. I don't think the roughness was there before the shave. Did I overhone that part? What's the best way to go from here?
Check it under magnification first
Another little known test is the TP test
Take a loosely folded square of TP and do a light push test, if the edge is anything but "Smooth" you will know
LIGHT touch is the key
Interesting! Using the toilet paper (I don't have a good microscope though I sometimes use a loupe for viewing slides) I found a definite rough spot on the blade, but it is smaller than I thought and a bit more towards the toe than expected.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Overhoning is actually a much blamed little seen issue :)
Microchipping however is an real issue :D
Another thing to look for is a frown, hold the blade very lightly edge down on a known flat hone and see if there is light showing through the middle of the blade with the heel and toe touching the hone. As gssixgun said chipping is way more common than over honing
Ok, no frown it seems (it is smiling :) )
Anyway, I also took out my slide loupe, and put the razor into some strong light. Turns out the rough spot detected by the toilet paper is a tiny nick. I couldn't see it in dimmer light. I honed it some more on my fine Chinese stone, and the nick got even smaller (dang, I thought it was gone, but maybe now I won't feel it).
Another thing is that the bevel is wide at the toe and gradually getting narrow towards the heel. It was always like this, and I think it has to do with the thickness of the spine. Both ends shave well so I'm not sure it's a problem.
I think on smilers having the point end worn more than the heel is a common occurrence. I say this because many folks honing that type of blade don't take the needs of the heel into account when making a rolling x stroke. It's easy to make this mistake because the point by default will stay in contact on the hone for most of the strokes travel thus possibly getting honed more. By the time the heel has become sharp enough a lot more metal was removed from the toe end. Be mindful of what part of the razor needs more attention. I sometimes ride the heel a little longer on the hone before swooping out to the toe to compensate. It's not always needed but I find many smiling wedges or hollows even need this strategy to even the edge wear. Just a thought.
Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk