Attachment 269845
Ok so i read the whole topic.
The problem(s) is(are) relatively simple.
1) Your blade has a slight warp to it from the factory.
it twists from heel to tip counterclockwise.
This gives you slightly wider bevel on the back towards the tip and slightly thiner bevels on the back towards the heel.
The face of the razor responds to this change in geometry with the oposite effect on the bevel...like a mirror.
thiner at the tip and slightly thicker at the heel.
2) A frown is usualy obtained when honing on a hone that is not flat but convex!
This is not unusual at Dovo because they use a rotary machine with slightly convex hones to tit all the points of the bevel in one pass.
But luckly this is not the case here...
WHY?
...well because if there would have beel overhoning on a convex hone the spine would have had to show som pronounced honeware in the middle.
ANY ABNORMALITY IN BEVEL WIDTH HAS A CORESPONDANT IN SPINEWARE!
But....why not here?
...well because you put the froun there when you panicked and try to get the middle of the blade - bevel to touch the hone. You applied finger pressure and all you did is practicalt make the fone eat metal faster there....when you should have been pushing at the spine actualy...removing metal from the spine would have lowered the angle of the blade and eventualy the bevel would have come down to stone level!:)
This works well at the tip and heel...in the middle of the blade it's tricky.
So there is no corespondent spineware to the frown because the hollow flexed under the pressure you applied and you fed the bevel to the hone...the spine stayed flat the whole time.
There is a good news to this...a correct Breadknife maneuver could fix it fast BUT...the frown is so small you can ride it out on the hone!
So let's get to fixing it.
Saphire marker and a flat hone!
Step 1.
Some people dont realise that spending excess time on the hones trying to correct problems actualy wares your hone uneven and using them on a corect razor afterwards ma leed to further problems.....so if a stone especialy a bevel setter is used to correct geometry problems....flaten it before using on a good razor or at least check if it is flat!...they require flattening more often...that is why i recomend spending the minimum ammount of time on the hones and always try to undertand the problem taht needs correcting before starting to correct it! Once you set on correcting it ...do it while removing the minimum ammount of metal!
So step one check if the stone is still flat...if not flaten it!
Step 2.
Use the Saphire marker to apply a coat of colour on bevels and spineware on both sides of the blade.
Few ppl know that the Saphire technique can be used both as a diagnostic test and as a stroke calibrtion test.
Most use it to see where the blade touches the hone.
This test can also be used to calibrte your stroke.
On ths kind of blades Rolling X strokes +/- targeted finger pressure are required.
Start with a normal rolling X stroke on both sides...then STOP and look at where the hone eats steel away.
Now calibrate your stroke...
If it misses a spot towards the tip/heel...apply pressure on the spine coresponding to that area....not the edge!
if it misses a spot in the middle of the blade like in your case....apply equal presure to the whole spine and have patience...when it starts to eat away the marker in the middle you can ease up on the pressure or apply a thin layer of tape to prevent further spineware....
Re apply the marker any time you need to and always think your next steps.
Idealy stroke calibration should be done when honing a new to you razor...it helps you learn the correct stroke to use on that specific razor....so it helps you spend less time on the hones and remove less metal.
I use it especialy before honing smyling razors and old english and french razors as well as new solingen razors...because of frequent geometry issues.
I practicaly aim to find the type of stroke that removes all the marker on the bevel from heel to toe...then i memorize it and repeat it troughout the progression to finisher.
There are many things to discuss about blade geometry but this should get you on the right road.
Hope it helps.