Wostenholm edge crumbling halfway through shave

I bough this razor awhile back, the restoration was by someone else.

Attachment 279702

I find it wont hold an edge when shaving. I think its because the bevel angle is to shallow, which I have calculated to be approx 18 degrees using 0.01mm verniers. I also have a nice, high quality, dissecting microscope that goes to 50X magnification and I can clearly see a difference in the edge between hanging hair sharp before shaving and after. I also have a Longlife razor, and others, that stay sharp throughout a shave and there is little difference to the edge from before and after a shave, so I'm sure its not my sharpening technique.

Just wondering if anyone has had experience with Wolstenholm & sons blades and what bevel angle might suit them; thought I would ask before I go and completely stuff things up. (I am assuming that these old razors are like chisels, in that different bevel angles suite different makers and different steels)

Thanks for your help.

here is another image of the razor
Attachment 279703

18 is steep not shallow for a razor 16 -17 is the target for SR's in general

Tell us more about the honing system you are using

After getting a "restored" razor from a so called "professional" I am mighty quick to lean on the "overheated on the buffers" school of thought

I started by studying the blade under the microscope and found the bevels didnt meet in the top third of the edge. I used a single layer of tape as this is what the guy I bought the razor from did.
I started with a "tam-o-shanter" whetstone and checked the bevels every 10 strokes or so until the bevels met. Then move to 10k waterstone until striations from whetstone were gone. Then moved (stropped) to kangaroo hide charged with flexcut compound till it was sharp! Finally stropped with cow hide strop till HHS.

Are the bevels even along the edge? Also try honing again without the pasted strop next time and see if it improves

Quote:

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Originally Posted by layingaloneinbed

I started by studying the blade under the microscope and found the bevels didnt meet in the top third of the edge. I used a single layer of tape as this is what the guy I bought the razor from did.
I started with a "tam-o-shanter" whetstone and checked the bevels every 10 strokes or so until the bevels met.

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This makes me think it is more of a honing issue rather than anything else

Quick and dirty test

Use two layers of tape and see if it miraculously starts shaving after you repeat your honing regime
Often time the Micro bevel will make it pop
If it does then you KNOW you have some honing to do to correct the edge, if not then you still have more mystery to solve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gssixgun

This makes me think it is more of a honing issue rather than anything else

Quick and dirty test

Use two layers of tape and see if it miraculously starts shaving after you repeat your honing regime
Often time the Micro bevel will make it pop
If it does then you KNOW you have some honing to do to correct the edge, if not then you still have more mystery to solve

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Can't you just keep the micro bevel and hone with 2 layers of tape, always?

Yeah, if Glen's technique does not work for you. I'm inclined to agree with Magpie. Depending on who you had restore it, is it possible that it was overheated (i.e. lost its hard) during the restoration process? This would lead to a very quickly degraded edge.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mikali

Can't you just keep the micro bevel and hone with 2 layers of tape, always?

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yes you can, that is always an option.

Get the bevel just about set using soft, light strokes and then move on.

I some times have edges fail half way through the shave on full hollows because im so used to honing heavier grinds.

That's my thoughts.. Good luck

Just a little hint

Heat Damage from "Moron Buffing" is usually in one spot, you rarely find it along the whole edge

It is also normally at either the Heel or the Toe, Heat damage will basically give a "Soft Spot" that spot will fall apart at the 1k level just crumbles away and creates a burr or a fold over


Just for info

ps: The "Shinier" the steel is the more likely you have "Moron Buffing" present :p

Thanks for your input. It's probable I have been heavy handed while honing/ stropping. I realize there is a difference between calculated bevel angle and actual angle so I will do as suggested with double tape and light passes and see how it shaves.

Thanks again.

Thanks for the suggestions. I carefully reset the bevel with the 10K stone I have and just gave it several strokes on strop to remove any fins. Shaved with it this morning, 3 days growth, and got a passable shave with 2 passes and blade behaved for the entire process. Thanks again for all your suggestions.

Maybe next time try to finish on 10k and plain leather only and get rid of the flex cut charged strop routine that stuff is fairly aggressive made for wood carvers tools and maybe would not produce the best shave and or thin out the cutting edge if over used. Just a thought if you strop with paste maybe stick to razor approved materials.

Yes, you make a good point. Flexcut does remove steel but also leaves a very bright burnishe like finish. In this case I was too heavy handed. Thanks again for everybodies comments.