My progression on a Thiers Issar

I'm still new in the honing "business" but since I'm using a microscope I feel like making a leap forward towards my perfect edge.

This is my latest honing session with a postive, nearly great test shave.
However there still is room for improvement !


Shapton GS 2K
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/...s.jpg~original

Shapton GS 4K
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/...t.jpg~original

Shapton GS8K
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/...z.jpg~original

Ozaki Kiita finish
http://i1268.photobucket.com/albums/...b.jpg~original

Great pix. Very clear and interesting.

Were these straight off the hone or stropped?

Modern Thiers Issard razors with Carbonsong C135 steel can be a bear to hone as the steel has 1.35% carbon, far higher than most razors. However, once you figure it out, the steel holds an edge well and gives a great shave. Even though you are new to honing, it looks like you are well on the way to figuring it out. A microscope is helpful, but it does not tell you everything as you are not examining the apex of the edge.

Remember, though, that the key is achieving a good apex during the bevel setting process. You should be able to shave arm hair at skin level after bevel setting. The remainder of the honing progression removes the scratches left behind by your bevel setting stone, making the edge keener and smoother.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by RayClem

Modern Thiers Issard razors with Carbonsong C135 steel can be a bear to hone as the steel has 1.35% carbon, far higher than most razors. However, once you figure it out, the steel holds an edge well and gives a great shave. Even though you are new to honing, it looks like you are well on the way to figuring it out. A microscope is helpful, but it does not tell you everything as you are not examining the apex of the edge.

Remember, though, that the key is achieving a good apex during the bevel setting process. You should be able to shave arm hair at skin level after bevel setting. The remainder of the honing progression removes the scratches left behind by your bevel setting stone, making the edge keener and smoother.

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This is still the hardest thing in my learning process, knowing for 100% sure the bevel is set.
I do a TNT and my interpretation is that if it grabs my nail it's OK. Arm hair shaving at skin level is also working ...
And still I'm not Always sure as the end result sometimes is not sharp enough for me, but that could also be that my progression is "too fast".
I'm Always scrared of the "over-honing" monster haha, shapton glass stones are quick they say, only 20-30 strokes need they say, so I try too stay close ...

How are you using the Ozaki.

Are you using a Tomo.

I would want a slightly better looking picture after the Jnat.

If I'm interpreting the picture correctly ?

Jep I use a Tomo.
You mean more work on the Jnat, or a better quality pic?

JNats do require a little more time than the synthetics depending on the speed of your stone. I find that even at the Tomo level on my Kiita, I haven’t refined the edge enough until I see a pretty decent darkening of the tomo slurry. Once I see the slurry darken I will dilute a bit, but never to pure water. I prefer to keep at least a misty slurry on my JNat.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mikali

Jep I use a Tomo.
You mean more work on the Jnat, or a better quality pic?

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The picture quality is fine.
I would want a cleaner smoother edge at the end.
It is not easy to give you advise because I don't know you're stone or your technique.

The edge should be straight and uniform in texture and form.
Maybe try a different tomo or a DMT slurry.
When I get home tonight I will show you a nice picture of a finished edge.
Even though a picture cannot determine its performance.

Probkem is, the tomo produces a purple slurry so it is very hard to see it darken with metal particles...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOB15

The picture quality is fine.
I would want a cleaner smoother edge at the end.
It is not easy to give you advise because I don't know you're stone or your technique.

The edge should be straight and uniform in texture and form.
Maybe try a different tomo or a DMT slurry.
When I get home tonight I will show you a nice picture of a finished edge.
Even though a picture cannot determine its performance.

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Ah great thanks. I only have been using the scope to watch the striations on the bevel and look for any microchipping. The edge I need to study more but find it hard to know what to look for.

Here are a few pictures.

This is what I like to see with my honing. Although I haven't used my scope in many a month.

Another thing to bear in mind is the metal type. Soft vs brittle is how I see things . T.I is brittle so you have to be extra careful to avoid micro-chipping .

1k Edge
Attachment 280607

16k Edge on a Hart steel (brittle/hard steel)
Attachment 280609

Tomo (I'm guessing Wade & Butcher/ soft steel)
Attachment 280608

Same as above.
Attachment 280610

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JOB15

Here are a few pictures.

This is what I like to see with my honing. Although I haven't used my scope in many a month.

Another thing to bear in mind is the metal type. Soft vs brittle is how I see things

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Thanks for the pix, Job. What was your magnification? Was it the same for all four images?

I have a TI that is just a bear to hone. I have three of them and they are all modern versions. But one of them is so damn hard that it will not budge. It laughs at my 12k stone. Normally the 12k is a fast stone. Five passes, maybe 7-8, and you're ready to move on to 20k. It requires a lot more at each grit to move it forward.