Shaun I’ll send you some Mater’s if you want
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Shaun I’ll send you some Mater’s if you want
I use the TNT and loupe to know bevel is set. But, when it comes to tomatoes im thinking its more of a push into the skin than a slice across the skin. This would take practice to know what a finished edge should do. The same as most all tests. And I agree that Alfredo was the one to bring this test into the public. A great guy BTW. Knowing is from experiance and repetitive actions. So sure, you can use tomatoes if you want, but mine blades dont touch food.
I have done aprox. 300 Edges since i started honing and i wouldnt concider myself as a pro or expert. I do a great job on honing if you ask me and ive sent my edge to others to try and got great feedback from them. Still, there is a lot to learn and i know it. And a lots of ways to skin a cat. Poor kitty.
I see a couple of issues with using Cherry Tomatoes.
1- I don't have them handy very often.
2- I assume that you are using production tomatoes from the store and from what I understand they have been bred to have tough skins to aid in mechanical picking/packaging. Heirloom tomatoes would tend to have thinner skins. Therefore you would need a consistent source of tomatoes to have consistent results. Depending on the time of year that you would purchase your tomatoes they could come from a variety of places around the world.:hmmm:
having never done the cherry tomato test, and not liking them very much, I think that's a great way to use up the cherry tomatoes that come with veggie trays :} certainly a better way to go than eating them :}
If scratch patterns are all you see under magnification, you either need to learn what to look for, or you need better magnification. I can see burrs, chips, pitting, rust pockets, foil edges, and whether the two planes have met or they still have a few microns to go beneath my loupes. YMMV.
I check my bevels by slowing drawing the blade through a slice in a piece of paper held vertically, weight of the blade only. I like this method because if there is a portion of the blade not quite there yet it shows up easily.
As the old saying goes.. You say tamatoe i say tomato.. I do remember my grandfather owned a greenhouse and he would use the cherry tomatoes after putting his knives and his SR to a stone.. Meh, nothing for anyone to get defensive about.. Whatever works for each..
Oh ya...I have honed 2 razors and use Brazil nuts for my bevel:lurk:
I‘ve adopted the Murray Carter‘s „3-finger-test“.
For me it became actually „1 to 3 fingers-test“ as I often want to touch particular location of the blade.
Guess it working some similar to the TPT. The difference is I still attempt to ever gently slide the fingers along the edge (no pressure at all, just contact). Apart from the level of keeness this gives me an Information about the burr, toothiness and refinement. Finished edge feels totaly smooth but is kinda instantly biting into the skin.
Additionally I check the scratch pattern in my toy-microscope and pay attention to the stone feedback and water/slurry undercut.
I‘ve tried cherry tomato test and it has worked for me. Do not continue due to I like to have more direct contact...
Philipp
Or a grape.
Another test is a bristle from a brush or a hair from some hair brushes.
A bristle will catch on a well set bevel and skate on a dull spot.
A plastic soda straw will also catch... or skate.
My hair is so grey at this point that it is hard to see with steel as a background.
A burr will catch on anything but commonly from only one side.
Since a bevel needs to be set so seldom a grape or tomato is fine... just be sure to rinse in
hot water and wipe with a rust limiting oil.
A loupe and a magic marker are invaluable when transforming a terrible razor to a shaver.
The magic marker test is invaluable for knowing where any hone touches the blade.
Alcohol removes marker and protective oils.
Given all the water used with water stones WD-40 is invaluable especially inside the pivot but not
the only choice.