Bartmann issue

[TCMichigander]

Any Bartmann owners out there?.. I picked up this 15/16 #504 Silver Steel the other day.. Came with a few tiny rust spots im trying to rid of but my main question is what stonws are you guys using on these? started with Norton 1k>4k>8k and finished with Naniwa SS 12000... Not vad but i need more .. So next one is all Coti from start to finish with decent results but there ia so much more in this blade.. What stones are you guys using for optimal results...

[FranfC]

On my Bart I set the bevel w/Chosera 1K then Chosera 3K on to full J-Nat progression, results exceptional!

These Bartmanns have always honed up well for me but I can't remember ever using anything other than Nats to finish them.

[Badgister]

In my experience, the steel on Bartmanns is quite hard. If you are using a coticule, you might want to spend more time finishing and stretching the capability of the stone with very light strokes ( running water, soapy water, talc etc.. can help) and make sure you really give it a good stropping. If you are finishing with the Naniniwa 12k, 10 laps on chromium oxide will show improvement.

[TristanLudlow]

I honed mine as all others.

Naniwa synthetic progression ending with your preferred finisher.

Make sure the bevel is properly set, otherwise it has little use to try different stones, but you know this.

I also don't use my Coticules with slurry anymore, my fast Coticule stones are also fast when honed on dry without the dulling effect, they can easily set a bevel, others are just way too slow.

If all is done right, mess with a couple different finishing stones to see which you like best.
I like a 20K, a BBW, a Coti and Thuringers, they all worked for me.

That said, I used to really like Bartmanns until I got a few that were warped in the edge/blade, ergo they were a PITA to hone up right.
The brand fell out of grace for me despite it being widely regarded as a premium name.

The first one with this issue I got off an elderly local lady and looked fairly new (was the exact same one as yours btdubs), the other with the issue was a NOS blade from a highly respected vendor in Germany and I only noticed the flaw after I started honing, shame on me for not checking earlier.

Just sayin', might be worth checking if you have a straight blade with these Bartmanns, as their QC seemed to have been lacking at some point in the past. My other Bartmanns are older models and have no issue, the ones I got that were produced later weren't a success.

I'd check it with a regular quick glance down the edge and with a quick coloring in of the edge and some strokes on the stones and see what you got there.

[Euclid440]

You are probably going backwards in terms of grit past the 12k, try Chrome Oxide after the 12k, make sure you have, a good edge, look straight down on the edge.

Be careful you are not using too much pressure, flexing that hollow ground blade and lifting the edge off the stone.

That razor and those scales are notorious for Cell Rot, and it appears you have the early stages kicking off. The rust pattern on the blade will match the pattern on the scales. It is not unusual for the cell rot to attack the blade at the edge first and show up as a microchipped edge and later crumbling. Be sure you have honed to good steel.

Unfortunately, I would un-pin that razor and carefully remove as much of the rust spots as possible. Do not store it near any other razors until you re-scale.

[TCMichigander]

Thanks for the information gentleman.. I do apprec iate it... And you are right euclid, these scales worry me..When i got the razor a few days ago while looking at it with a 10x loupe i was surprised at thetiny micro rust on it... It had some on the original edge but i got lucky hopefully because it appears to be on to good steel now... Glen recently made me a great set of scales for a Koraat 14.2 that i cracked so i think this might be off to him for a new set.. Thank you again euclid..
Scott

[Badgister]

Respectfully, your razor doesn't seem to show symptoms of gassing by the pics. I have had many marbled scales like those and have some in my collection, and they are stable. The ones you should worry about are the transparent celluloid variety. A little oxidation on a vintage edge is normal and does not mean your scales are gassing.

If those scales are gone, then the there goes the beauty and value of this Bartmann.

[TCMichigander]

Did overreact a bit on the razor.. After getting my edge to where i wanted and assuring nothing but surface edge rust that i took care of.. It would not only be unnecessary to screw with what makes a Bartmann unique but totally stupid... The razor is great minus some of the swirls i put in the non etching side blade with 2000 grit I cant be happier... I will have over 48 hours of whiskers to get through tomorrow before heading to late afternoon barbeque and the way just a small test today went this blade is going to mow with pleasure!! Cant wait.. To all of rhe Fathers on the Forum i hope each one of you guys gets to enjoy the day.. And like always i appreciate any input on my posts..
Thanks, Scott

[TCMichigander]

I cant remember or find the member who said this but i took his advice on the Coti and it turnrd out a fantastic edge!!... Best Coti edge i have done myself for sure.. He said that when finishing on his coti he does nothing but dry stone light, long strokes, and quote a few of them.. Did this with my Bartmann while periodic lapping in between.. Just a great, keen, and comfortable shave!! Have a Wilber Elk that was getting close to a finish touch and did the same approach and recieved the same great result.. Not saying i will use dry coti finishing on all of my razors but i am very thankful someone pointed thus out.. I appreciate it!
Scott

[TristanLudlow]

I use my BBWs and Cotis dry only anymore, much better edges and both great capable finishers

I've tried all other imaginable methods on these stones, but dry honing > anything else for me


Not sure what you mean with lapping in between, the stones get better the more they're used dry without lapping them