I made a few video's today..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFRJkcKKRcM&t=34s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Uo2nLi48-o
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I made a few video's today..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vFRJkcKKRcM&t=34s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Uo2nLi48-o
Hi,
Thanks for making your videos.
I do have a couple of questions if you don’t mind.
Why do you set the bevel with 2 layers of tape then remove 1 layer to hone?
What was the see through tape and what does it do?
If I need it, where can I get it?
Newbie honer here, quite new at shaving too :angel:
Steve
Hi Steve,
I use 2 layers of tape when correcting the edge on the diamond plate because lifting the spine keeps the contact area nearer the apex (razors edge) . Otherwise i might be working more away from the very edge which would create a wider bevel.
The orange tape is called Polyamide Tape or known as Kapton Tape , It is very durable and thin. It is widely available on eBay etc.
I realized that i don't explain a lot when i make some videos and just assume ppl know whats going on .
On my web site i have recently started a tutorial page https://www.edge-dynamics.com/how-to...straight-razor
Over the next few months i will beef it up and add tutorial videos so keep an eye on it, tell your mates :)
Thanks
Joseph
Hi Joseph,
I hope you don’t mind too much but I have another question.
You said that you use two layers of tape when you correct an edge.
When you say correct, does that mean set the bevel or is it before bevel setting?
Why is it better not to have a wide bevel?
Sorry for the questions.
Steve
Hi Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by STF
No problem ask all the questions you like, we are here to help .
There was no bevel on this razor because it had been restored. I removed rust etc and polished it up shiny.
The toe had a fraction missing , same as having a chip or other types of damage.
Setting the Bevel means having both sides of the razor meet and form an Apex.
The bevel was technically set on the diamond plate. Making the edge even and uniform on the diamond plate did actually set the bevel, however the slang i use would be to say that i have established a bevel and now i will set the bevel on the 1k. It can get quite confusing.
I want my bevels to be as small as possible for aesthetics. I have some amazing shavers with large wonky bevels and i treat them like second class citizens :)
I hope you understood my explanations ..
If anyone wants to chime in please do..
Cheers
Joseph
Awesome videos. Subscribed. What is the white stone that you rub on the other stones? The one that you mention used to have markings on the side? What is the use of it?
This was my question too. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by STF
Thank you.Quote:
Originally Posted by PhoenX
They are Nagura stones . Each Nagura stone has a different particle size. Starting off coarse and finishing with the finest. The one without the markings is a Koma Nagura.
The typical range is Botan / Tenjou / Mejiro / Koma / Tomo..
Joseph
As a point of clarification, generally you do not want to set a bevel with a Diamond plate.
Diamonds are aggressive and cut deep stria. That deep stria, if not fully removed will cause the edge to be chippy, depending on the steel. Note how Joseph joints the edge several times to get to good undamaged steel during the honing process. Also note how few laps it takes to get them to meet fully again after jointing, 10 laps.
If you use Diamonds for edge correction, do not fully set the bevel, (get the bevels to meet fully). Then when you do get the bevels meeting you will have removed all the deep stria with the 1k.
This is considered repair work, not garden-variety honing. Once the repairs are made, then the honing begins. Also, note Joseph is using a well-worn Diamond plate that will not cut as deeply as a new plate.
Joseph is very good at that, note how he just gets the 1k bevels to meet then moves to the next stone. Once the bevels are in the correct plane, flat and meeting, there is no need to stay on the 1k.
For most new honers the problem is knowing when the bevels are fully set and meeting. Just look straight down on the edge, any shinny reflections are where the bevels are not meeting or chips, the edge is not fully set.
Kapton is much tougher than electrical tape and inexpensive, if you buy the knock off on Ebay. Buy the ¾ in / 20mm tape. 15mm is too thin.
Hi,Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440
Is this the stuff and size you're recommending?
https://www.amazon.ca/Sonline-Kapton...682314&sr=8-29
Steve
Yup, that’s it.
A tape dispenser makes application much easier; it is very thin and folds on itself easily.
Can't say enough good things about Kapton tape.
It's tough...
It's thin...
It's slick...
It gives a feeling while honing that is very close to honing with no tape.
Pete <:-}
Well said..Quote:
Originally Posted by Euclid440