Lapping / Truing Stone

Looking at my honing stone (EdgeLogix 4k / 10k ... little known about it, will try at own risk) I thought I may have to take a lapping stone to it before it sees the razor's edge. I was thinking it over and wondered if there is a particular 'lapping stone grit' that is recommended for the finer whetstones.

Reason for asking is because I could get a 240 grit lapping stone, but taking that to the 10k honing stone may leave grooves ... is my logic yet unexperienced thinking. Am I far off? Or will the 240 grit lapping stone do just fine on the 10k whetstone? Done some searches and found recommended lapping stones, but I am interested in the lapping grit effectiveness/destruction it poses on the honing stone.

I lap with a old 325 DMT

3m professional 325 grit on a counter top is my preferred initial lapping media

Worn 325 or 400 diamond plates are my choice.

DMT 325 that has had the high spots knocked off it.

Bob

+1 Jerry, the Atomas mellow out to finishing grade after they're worn in. 400 Atoma to bevel edges, remove a little dish, and worn 600 Atoma to finish. The 1200 is good too, but the one that I have isn’t mellowed enough yet. Got to work on that...

I like the mellow 325 DMT but it sticks a lot worse than the Atomas.

Does not matter. Most lap with a 300-400 grit plate. For new stones I start with a 140 then finish with 300. 140 does not mess around, the trick is to get to flat, resurface with a 300-600 plate.

Once you lap the stone, an aggressive stone may leave a rough surface, but after a few laps with the razor the stone will smooth out, so it does not matter.

When I got my SG20 I lapped with 1k and was having issues until I lapped it with my 140.

There is not a lot of difference in lapping plates from one brand to another. For years I lapped with a $30 300/1k plate from Chef Knives to Go. Worked fine lasted a long time, years and I lap a lot of stones. I have bought almost ever brand of Diamond plate out there, they all work, even eBay no names.

If you are going to use the plate for other things, correction or honing other tools and knives, go with a continuous surface plate not the dotted ones. I hone plane blades and chisels on a 1200 Atoma, finish on 16000 Shapton. Easily makes the jump with a micro bevel.

The trick to diamond plate longevity is lots of water and light pressure. Pressure will pull out the diamonds. Let the diamonds do the work.

To lap a new stone I use 220 W&D paper on a piece of corian counter top. Then move thru 400, 600, 1000 W&D paper. If I need to lap it again, later on, I'll go thru the last three grits. Haven't lapped mine in a long time, most are Nats, and get slurried each use. And my bevel setter gets used with a dressing stone, before each razor.