Hi,
Yes is the answer.
However you can hone without joining /killing the edge, it is just a preference.
Whatever works for you :)
Printable View
Hi,
Yes is the answer.
However you can hone without joining /killing the edge, it is just a preference.
Whatever works for you :)
Thank you - I’ve never thought to try it on any other stage than bevel set. I will give it a try
Let me know how you get on.
Any questing anytime, on here or email me, I'm always happy to help.
Joseph
“I have a question please - do you only kill the edge on the bevel set and then on the next stone up (5k in your video). This would apply to any stone that follows the bevel set on synth progression - be it 3k or 4K or 5k?”
The goal is a straight edge, where the bevels meet.
If you look at the edge with magnification at 1k, it is not straight, it is ragged. The edge does not get really straight, until about 6- 8k.
If you joint after 1k, the 4k starts out with a straight edge, and you just have to get the bevels to meet.
Killing refers to removing the edge on any hard object, by rolling the edge. The cutting edge is super thin and not even visible at 400x, so it does not take much pressure to roll the actual edge.
Jointing cuts off the edge, by running the edge on a stone, which leaves a straighter edge, one lite pressure stroke on the corner of the stone is all you need.
Once the bevels are flat and meeting, a jointed edge can be restored in 15-20 laps or less. It just eliminates another variable and I believe makes a stronger edge.
One other issue diagnosing benefit. Joint, one lite lap on the stone corner, now look at the edge, straight down on the edge with lighted magnification.
Here, what you see is reversed, the edge should look shiny, any dark spots are chips, large dark spots, you should look at from the side to see how deep the chips are. You may want to mark that chip with a sharpie mark from edge to spine, as a witness mark so you can easily track the chip removal.
As you hone and the edge comes together, meeting, the shiny edge is dark and shiny spots are chips or where bevels are not meeting.
If you look straight down on the edge and your scope/loup touches the edge, do a few more finish laps just in case you rolled the edge where it touched. If you hear the dreaded “Tink” with a Carson scope, you dinged the edge. A handful of laps will bring it back.
Some thoughts on Jnats
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xATVP-aC4FA
I too, do not like Nagura with cut lines, they are prone to chipping. You can minimize chipping by beveling the cuts with a small diamond plat or India stone with a crisp corner. But I too just round the best- looking corner to make slurry.
With Jnats, one must test a nagura progression. They are natural stones and when used in combination with base stones can deliver different results. A tomo may not be finer or produce a finer bevel than an Mikawa nagura. Asano stamps do not equate to grit ranking.
I use Wasabi/dipping dishes to place each Nagura when in use to prevent cross grit contamination during honing, and wash used slurry into a small bowl to contain the slurry from the work surface. It is a small thing, but when you get to finish level, every thing counts. Eliminate variables.
I like that you work very clean.
“I restore razors, he un-restores them.” Your brother is not alone.
A long video.. :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h30X6-9jlQ
Thanks Joseph. It's always interesting to see the process others use. Nicely done and quite methodical. It's funny, I've been using predominantly Arks for so long now that it seems like almost no strokes at all in comparison. Maybe I will revisit my synths again just for variety.
Thanks for watching Paul. Strangely enough i was rite and the stone needed burnishing, the shaves were much more like it but i can tell that i over polished the Suita... I will rough it up a bit and make a shave video.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulFLUS
I have been thinking about my Arks lately , i might dig them out.. I have too many stones to choose from :)