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Yesterday i made 3 videos for my website.
Tutorials on honing.
How To Set a Bevel
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xA2V_MBcu4A&t=157s
Synthetic Honing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nghHA5R3_p4
Jnat / Nagura Progression
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a0PKwzdWysU&t=150s
Thank you and i hope they are useful.
Joseph
Thanks Joseph,Quote:
Originally Posted by JOB15
Bevel setting has just become a lot clearer.
Your welcome :)Quote:
Originally Posted by STF
Nice content and production.
A big fan of removing the minimum of steel and making the least impact on the edge. I often bevel set on a 2k Green Brick, lots shallower stria and almost as fast.
I then jump to a King 6k, it is aggressive and leaves an even fine stria pattern. Pre finish on a Fuji 8k near mirror, then a natural.
From the pristine Fuji edge, finish goes quick. It is a low impact edge progression. I too change it up occasionally the middle stones don't matter all that much.
I like your calm easy narration. Good Job.
Thank you..
I'm most proud of my intro. I'm on Adobe Premiere Pro.
I have a long way to go with editing. It's the kinda thing you need to study at college.
YouTube can be a blessing.
I also really like your videos, and the way you explain things. Great job!
Just watched the bevel setting video. Well done.
Your calm explanation and doing it in real time make the process seem quite straightforward and not overly time consuming, The key take away for me was to check often so you don’t over hone - something I am prone to do.
Thank you for taking the time to make the video.
Very nice vid. And your voice comes across nicely. Not overpowering or demanding for someone to do what you want. Also not like an Idiot as some we here about on Youtube.
That jnat must be a very fast stone as you didn't spend much time on any one Nagura. Thank you.
Hi, thanks for the comments. My Ozuku is a lot faster than that Nakayama . A full hollow takes about 25 laps on the Ozuku. I think that is one of the reasons they cost a lot of money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Gasman
I did try to not tell ppl what they can or cannot do or this is a law. I would rather just explain what i do..
They are not perfect videos but considering i made them off the cuff with no pre planning i think they will do.
Thanks
Joseph
Thanks..Quote:
Originally Posted by DZEC
I love all my stones so much that over honing on each stone is always a problem :)
I like your minimalist honing approach. It is something I too have been experimenting with for a while.
It may seem contrary to many here, where we often talk about” Maxing out” each stone.
Really once the bevel is “fully” set, the rest is just polish, and you don’t even have to polish the whole bevel, just the edge. For many knowing a fully set edge can be challenging, so over-honing/maxing each stone is a simple sure way to get and keep an edge.
It is more of an advanced technique, or more way of thinking, may be worthy of its own thread.
I think that the less trauma caused to the apex would make for a less chippy edge. You can see under a microscope that one or two extra strokes on bevel set with a T.I or Dovo can cause some chipping and in my mind that is where weepers come from when going atg around the chin for example.
I wouldn't say that other honing techniques would not get good results but i only know what i know and i don't know what others know :confused:
Years ago, there was some discussion on edge impact, with respect to diamond plates and even aggressive sanding belts during the manufacturing process.
Steel does have a memory, look at the inside of any automotive body damage repair or damaged steel with a microscope. Damage goes deep.
It has to have a lasting impact, so anything one can do to minimize impact damage will make a stronger edge.
That makes sense .
Honing is a controversial subject if you consider what has been said over the years on many forums...many arguments.
Luckily here at SRP there is some form of structure . Probably because many have stuck around for such a long time.
Best Straight Razor forum this side of the mississippi :chapeau
I’m a bit suspicious of the edge impact being damaging, though it may well be, I’m just not seeing anything definite, just speculation. Steel undergoes a lot of impact effect during forging, from hand hammers to power hammers to drop forges. People generally consider this impact process beneficial though the steel is usually at a plastic temperature during these processes and it’s happening before quenching and tempering.
We do know that flexing a metal can cause it to harden or become brittle, you can bend a piece of soft iron at normal temperatures back and forth until it breaks at the bend. But does that effect happen at a razors edge from diamond plates or sanding belts? I don’t think we know...
Yes, the fabrication is brutal and impacting, but after rough grinding the steel is tempered and normalized in effort to relax the steel and amalgamate the stress and steel uniformly.
It is after this process that the steel, the edge is re-introduced to stress, though much less by the final grind with aggressive Diamond and Ceramic belts and again possibly during the honing process.
When you have a chipping issue on a hard razor or one that has undergone edge restoration, buffing, chip removal or reshaping. A quick simple solution is to remove a bit of metal and re-set the edge or produce a wider angle that will offer more support, (Micro Bevel).
Whatever the cause, getting to solid steel is the cure. Steel impact damage is well documented. Steel can not be cleanly cut off, even with a laser or water jet, there is always some microscopic deformation, the molecules must go somewhere.
Hardening probably makes it worse, locking microscopic blocks of steel together, that resist cutting and chip.
Until someone makes a real time X ray, Micrographic video of the inside of the steel as it is cut, we may never know for sure. It has always been controversial, much like honing, because we cannot see what is happening at the edge when it is happening.
It is an interesting subject, and while we may not know exactly why, avoiding it is easy and proven solutions exist.
Interesting vids, Joseph-I need to experiment around more with DMT slurry on the mid-range synth as you do on your 5k. I've done it on my Norton 4k, but haven't made it a habit unless the edge coming off the 1k was not optimal. I am also trying to get into the habit of jointing and then resetting before finishing up on each stone as Marty has always advocated.
As for the minimalist honing approach, I may have to restrain myself and give that a go on a couple of razors. I am one of the ones often talking about "maxing out" on any given hone, and if anything, I have probably done too many strokes at times trying to tweak that last little bit out of a stone with a couple of final feather-light sets.
By the way, what happened to those massive black and trans Arkansas stones you lapped and prepped some time back? They were some of the biggest, prettiest arks I have ever seen-now that would be a cool video!
Hi Aaron,Quote:
Originally Posted by ScoutHikerDad
I have never understood ppl doing untold laps especially on fine stones. However, if it works then it works. Many ways to skin a cat.
Those Arks are packed away . I dont know what to do with them at the moment. I need to put down the Jnats and focus on synthetics finishing with Arks & Eschers for shave videos etc. The problem is nothing can touch my Jnats and Nagurs , especially if we are talking wedges ...
They would make a good video :thinking:
Cheers and thanks..
Joseph
Like that thinking!Quote:
Originally Posted by JOB15
Thanks for the videos Joseph, I too like the minimalist approach.
I have a question please - do you only kill the edge on the bevel set and then on the next stone up (5k in your video). This would apply to any stone that follows the bevel set on synth progression - be it 3k or 4K or 5k?
Hi,
Yes is the answer.
However you can hone without joining /killing the edge, it is just a preference.
Whatever works for you :)
Thank you - I’ve never thought to try it on any other stage than bevel set. I will give it a try
Let me know how you get on.
Any questing anytime, on here or email me, I'm always happy to help.
Joseph
“I have a question please - do you only kill the edge on the bevel set and then on the next stone up (5k in your video). This would apply to any stone that follows the bevel set on synth progression - be it 3k or 4K or 5k?”
The goal is a straight edge, where the bevels meet.
If you look at the edge with magnification at 1k, it is not straight, it is ragged. The edge does not get really straight, until about 6- 8k.
If you joint after 1k, the 4k starts out with a straight edge, and you just have to get the bevels to meet.
Killing refers to removing the edge on any hard object, by rolling the edge. The cutting edge is super thin and not even visible at 400x, so it does not take much pressure to roll the actual edge.
Jointing cuts off the edge, by running the edge on a stone, which leaves a straighter edge, one lite pressure stroke on the corner of the stone is all you need.
Once the bevels are flat and meeting, a jointed edge can be restored in 15-20 laps or less. It just eliminates another variable and I believe makes a stronger edge.
One other issue diagnosing benefit. Joint, one lite lap on the stone corner, now look at the edge, straight down on the edge with lighted magnification.
Here, what you see is reversed, the edge should look shiny, any dark spots are chips, large dark spots, you should look at from the side to see how deep the chips are. You may want to mark that chip with a sharpie mark from edge to spine, as a witness mark so you can easily track the chip removal.
As you hone and the edge comes together, meeting, the shiny edge is dark and shiny spots are chips or where bevels are not meeting.
If you look straight down on the edge and your scope/loup touches the edge, do a few more finish laps just in case you rolled the edge where it touched. If you hear the dreaded “Tink” with a Carson scope, you dinged the edge. A handful of laps will bring it back.
Some thoughts on Jnats
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xATVP-aC4FA
I too, do not like Nagura with cut lines, they are prone to chipping. You can minimize chipping by beveling the cuts with a small diamond plat or India stone with a crisp corner. But I too just round the best- looking corner to make slurry.
With Jnats, one must test a nagura progression. They are natural stones and when used in combination with base stones can deliver different results. A tomo may not be finer or produce a finer bevel than an Mikawa nagura. Asano stamps do not equate to grit ranking.
I use Wasabi/dipping dishes to place each Nagura when in use to prevent cross grit contamination during honing, and wash used slurry into a small bowl to contain the slurry from the work surface. It is a small thing, but when you get to finish level, every thing counts. Eliminate variables.
I like that you work very clean.
“I restore razors, he un-restores them.” Your brother is not alone.
A long video.. :)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4h30X6-9jlQ
Thanks Joseph. It's always interesting to see the process others use. Nicely done and quite methodical. It's funny, I've been using predominantly Arks for so long now that it seems like almost no strokes at all in comparison. Maybe I will revisit my synths again just for variety.
Thanks for watching Paul. Strangely enough i was rite and the stone needed burnishing, the shaves were much more like it but i can tell that i over polished the Suita... I will rough it up a bit and make a shave video.Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulFLUS
I have been thinking about my Arks lately , i might dig them out.. I have too many stones to choose from :)