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I am slowly learning to hone and having fun doing it!
I currently have a 4k/8k Norton and a pasted paddle with 3.0 mic down to 0.5 mic along with a leather side.
I read on here about higher grid stones. Does anybody use the 12,000K
Japanese Stones. They sell for around $75.
i used a shapton 12k for awhile, but now i use a coticule
Another is the Chinese 12K waterstone sold by Woodcraft for about $30 and change for an about 8"x3" stone. Choices abound. Do it as I do: buy it and try it. I've found that if I try every variable, I will perfect no skills, but will have been provided with an endless number of excuses.:tu
Bruce
What Bruce said. I have no experience with the 12k grit Japanese waterstones, but the Chinese stone is very nice for my razors and my dad's chisels.
When learning to hone I would stay away from the Chinese 12k. Its a very slow cutting stone that gives mixed results, It might give one razor an amazing edge but not so amazing on the next. I would master the Nortons and stick with the paste's for now.
If you try the chinese 12K from Woodcraft be sure to refresh the surface before each honing session and perform no less than 50 laps. I always use 100 laps.
Just my two cents,:)
Randy,Quote:
Originally Posted by randydance062449
Do you use your Norton flattening stone to refresh it? Then 100 laps with the razor? It must be one slow cuttin' sucka! Recommended?
Why is that (and what do you mean "refresh")?Quote:
Originally Posted by randydance062449
I'm still very much in the experimentation phase with honing, but I've been able to finish two razors on the Chinese 12K well enough that I couldn't improve them with .5 micron chromium dioxide paste, so I'm pretty fond of that hone right now.
I have a 12K japanese Kitayama and a vintage japanes natural hone which is probably 12K+ but I still prefer the Coticule for most razors.
I've used vintage Japanese stones but I might have to try a coticule. I know coticules are versatile but I didn't know they were this versatile.
With the Chinese 12k, you can cut down on the number of strokes needed by forming a slurry first. The slurry makes it perform like any other stone, probably 30 to 40 laps does it on mine with my technique (this depends on the razor though).
I didn't know there was a 12000K stone. 8k was enough for mine, although I use a .5 micron strop as well
He meant to say 12k or 12,000 grit.
I have a coticule and a natural japanese hone.
Grit sizes have never really helped me understand what is going on. You need to magnify the razor edge and look at how shiny the polish is on that edge. The shinier the edge the better polisher the hone. A good quality x10 loupe used properly will do the job to magnify the edge.
When I look at the results of my hones.
The coticule cuts best with a slurry and polishes best with a little washing up liquid.
The japanese natural stone cuts best, dry and polishes best with a slurry. If you don't know this simple rule you will never enjoy a japanese hone fully if at all.
Also the Japanese hone cuts more slowly than a coticule, but to be honest it is really a polishing hone.
The japanese hone gives the smoother sharpesr edge. I wouldn't say "best edge" because I agree with previous post that for many razors the coticule is perfect I have found that harder steeled blades benefit from the japanese hone.
The progression for me is as follows:
Coticule with slurry.............................say 6000 grit
Natural Japanese hone dry..................say 8000 grit
Coticule with soap...............................say 10000 grit
Natural Japanese hone with slurry.......say 12000 grit
Pasted Linen strop.............................. greater than 12000 grit
Cow hide strop
Horse hide strop
I'm interested in this bit as well. What do you mean with "refresh", and what's the reason for doing it? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by randydance062449
If you are willing to spend $75 you might consider the 16K Shapton Glass at $100. It is one of the finest finishers out there. You can transcend from any 8K stone with no problems.
bj