TI sheffield silver steel specifics?

Hi everyone,

This is my first post so I'd like to say hello to all of you! In the last year or so this forum has been a great source of information for me, but I would appreciate some personal advice on the following issue...

I started using a straight razor about 2 years ago and currently own just one, a TI silver steel razor. In the past, I went back to the shop where I bought the razor to have it honed, but now I'm trying to hone it myself.

Currently, the razor pulls and after a shaving stroke only half of the hairs are gone...
this is after several (let's say 40-50) x-pattern strokes on a Belgian coticule (yellow). Do I need a more aggressive hone (e.g., Norton 4000/8000) to get the razor sharp or should I proceed on the coticule? I'm using very light pressure, but in one direction I've got the feeling that the edge does not touch the hone at all times. In the other direction, I can actually feel the razor edge "gripping" the hone. Could this indicate that this razor is warped or is it most likely a result of a flaw in my honing technique?

In several threads I've read that honing a silver steel TI requires special attention, but I cannot find WHAT to do differently for this type of razor. Can you please point me to a thread where this is discussed? Or can you tell me what to do when honing this type of razor?

All help is greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

Best regards,

Tim

First I'll tell you that there is nothing different in honing a silver steel razor than any other razor. What makes a TI a little more difficult is the lead hardening they use. It may take a tad longer to hone but nothing drastic. Secondly if your razor was sharp to begin with and you are now touching it up all you really need is the coticule. Don't start messing with the 4K or you'll ruin it. I find with my TIs and I have about 10 of them when its time for a touch up and I use the coticule also I do strokes in groups of 30 and then test by arm hair shaving. I usually find it takes between 60-90 strokes to do the job. I know there are guys who can do it in 15 or so but thats them. maybe my strokes have less pressure. I' don't know but thats what I find. You need to experiment to find the right amount for you. Just keep at it and keep checking so you don't overdo it.

Now if you honing skills are lacking all the strokes in the world won't help and you might in fact be damaging the razor. If you haven't done this before I would suggest sending it out to a honemeister. Dont practice honing on a good razor. Get a junk razor on Eboy and practice with that.

Mark the bevel, do about 5-10 strokes on the hone and check whether the blade is in full contact with the hone. If it isn't your blade might be warped or has more hone wear on one end than on the other.

If it is in full contact with the hone your razor is either blunt or overhoned. If it pulls it is most likely just not sharp enough. If 90 passes on a coticule won't do you might re-establish a usable bevel using a coarser hone and do pyramids (see help files or Lynn's DVD).

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Tim

Hi everyone,

This is my first post so I'd like to say hello to all of you! In the last year or so this forum has been a great source of information for me, but I would appreciate some personal advice on the following issue...

I started using a straight razor about 2 years ago and currently own just one, a TI silver steel razor. In the past, I went back to the shop where I bought the razor to have it honed, but now I'm trying to hone it myself.

Currently, the razor pulls and after a shaving stroke only half of the hairs are gone...
this is after several (let's say 40-50) x-pattern strokes on a Belgian coticule (yellow). Do I need a more aggressive hone (e.g., Norton 4000/8000) to get the razor sharp or should I proceed on the coticule? I'm using very light pressure, but in one direction I've got the feeling that the edge does not touch the hone at all times. In the other direction, I can actually feel the razor edge "gripping" the hone. Could this indicate that this razor is warped or is it most likely a result of a flaw in my honing technique?

In several threads I've read that honing a silver steel TI requires special attention, but I cannot find WHAT to do differently for this type of razor. Can you please point me to a thread where this is discussed? Or can you tell me what to do when honing this type of razor?

All help is greatly appreciated! Thank you in advance!

Best regards,

Tim

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How long it lasted acute until taking it to you to sharpen?

Greetings from Barcelona

Thanks a lot for your help guys! Maybe I should leave my TI aside until I get the honing right... Actually, I think it might have been honed asymmetrically right from the start: I bought it new and I always had the impression that it was sharper on one side than on the other :hmmm:... Will look for a well-honed razor FS here on SRP or on Ebay.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Estroncio

How long it lasted acute until taking it to you to sharpen?

Greetings from Barcelona

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Well, I could shave with it for several months between honing, but I don't think it was sharp enough for the HHT, however (actually never tried). It was not ultra-sharp as some people describe their razor here on SRP (even new), without pulling it gently it did not cut. Anyway, before continuing the honing process, I definitely need a benchmark razor...

Tim, you're doing the right thing by listening to the hone as the steel moves along it. Don't know why it hones in one direction but not the other but do take a straight edge and see if the razor is straight or not. Then see if the stone is flat or not. Make sure the straight edge is straight too! If in doubt, hold it up against a window and see if there is any space in between the straight edge and the glass. Shine a flashlight behind it if you need to. When, if, everything is straight and flat, you've eliminated that variable. What could it be then? One possibility is the blade was case hardened. If it was then that would explain the different pulling in two directions. A case hardened blade might act that way. My guess though, and without seeing or feeling the blade and stone, is that it has something to do with honing technique. Try using more pressure on the coticule. Remember, after all, that you're honing steel here and it's not soft. Takes some effort. Not a lot but some. I've seen people take dull razors and use just razor weight on the stone and not get results. Until you get the razor really sharp, use a bit of pressure on the blade.

@ Howard: What's case hardening?