The "Official" Old-Fashion, barber-hone thread.....

Well, maybe I'm just a little lazy, and don't want to search this entire (massive) web-site to find what I'm looking for......so I thought the easy way would be to just start ANOTHER THREAD ! ! ! :cen

Let's talk about good, old-fashion, ceramic BARBER-HONES !

If any of you have kep't up with my posts, you would know that I'm
somewhat of a "NEWBEE" ! ! ! :roflmao

(a little "comic-relief" there...........)

OK, I got ahold of "Red-Trader".......and a couple-hundred dollers later, I've got:

* Kimberley
* Edgemaker
* Wester Bros.
* Little Devil
* Franz Swaty
* Amalgamite
* "It's A Peach"

NOW COMES THE FUN !

You veterans out there.......START POSTING ON THESE !

Are there different grades ?
I suppose you use them with water ?
Different grits ?
Is one better than the other ?
On Lynn's video, he say's "5 easy strokes to restore an edge"......is that good info ?

Come on guys......let's load this thread up with great info. on BARBER HONES !

THANKS !........ Marko.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Markopolo

I suppose you use them with water?

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Some of them are used dry, some with water, some with oil, and some with shaving lather. If you didn't get directions with them then you'll have to figure them out. Some can be used many ways, and some are particular. I think the Swaty is a dry hone, but the Dubl Duck works well with water or lather.

Don't forget that the coticule and escher are also barber hones, though they're not ceramic. And I've got one barber hone that feels like it's some sort of plastic.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Markopolo

Different grits ?

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There's a wide range of grits on barber hones, though you can adjust the effective grit somewhat by the way you polish them. Also for the stones that can be used with different lubricants this can also adjust the effective grit. I've got some that feel like they're in the mid hundreds grit-wise, and some that seem to be 15k+.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Markopolo

Is one better than the other ?

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Sure. Which one is better *for you* is something you'll have to figure out for yourself, as this is a pretty personal preference, not just for barber hones but for all hones actually.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Markopolo

On Lynn's video, he say's "5 easy strokes to restore an edge"......is that good info?

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Yes. I've been fortunate to get directions with a lot of my barber hones and 5 seems to be about the average. Mind you this isn't gonna work for J. Random Razor you snag off of ebay, but for a razor that you've been shaving with regularly 5 laps, +/- 3 should be enough to do the trick. Some hones may need more, some less, and this also depends on how far you let it go before you decide it needs a refresh. Once you find a favorite hone, stick with it and you'll eventually learn exactly how far you can let your razor go to refresh with X laps on the hone. This is also necessary to really master any hone - you must spend a lot of time to really learn it well in order to get the most value out of it. The various barber hones have significant differences, but remember these were all used by barbers who had to shave paying customers, so they are capable of delivering results if only you can master their use.

What more can I say? I think mparker kinda said it all.

I'll just say this: Of the barber hones you listed above, my current favorite is the "Little Devil." I've used it dry, with just water, and with lather. It is not meant to be used with oil. I think just water is my prefered way to use this hone.
It's a very fast hone. For just a touch up, only two to four strokes. Even for a dull razor, no more than say 20 - 30 strokes (maybe more, but well under 100 :) ). I think it is a great, and under-rated, little hone.
Also, I don't use any type of polishing, or finishing, stone after the little devil. The only polishing is what I get off of the strop.

Ooops, I guess I did have a little more to say after all :D .


Scott

What about a True-Edge? Does anyone have any info on these? I've had this one in my stash and just dug it out this morning when I was going through some safety razors I'm cleaning up to sell.

I'm planning on keeping the hone as I'm sure I will need it when I get brave enough to hone my own.

THANKS GUYS !......I appreciate it !

KEEP IT COMING ! ! ! :)

Marko.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by honedright

Also, I don't use any type of polishing, or finishing, stone after the little devil. The only polishing is what I get off of the strop.

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I think the linen strop is much more important when using barber hones than when using the exotic hones or pasted strops - the linen becomes your "finishing hone", and used properly it performs quite well.

One thing I've noticed is that all hones are good. Its your technique that is fitted for the hone or not. Hone speed for example is reflected in your stroke, etc. I also find that even subtle differences in grip while honing can influence your success.

I'd suggest when using a barber hone that you follow the directions specifically in the barbers manual on how to hone. I've always wondered why barber's texts described such an odd grip for honing. I've since figured it out. So if you have the grip down for a Norton don't use it for a barber hone. I've always just thought the grip would be the same for every hone, shows how much I know.

6-10 strokes are common for a barber hone so Lynn's advice, as usual, is right on the money. Some hones come with instructions to use "airy" strokes (I read that as light).

Again, I recommend the directions in the barbers manual when using a barber's hone . . . go figure, I know, but . . . the finger placement is pretty quirky but works wonders with a barber hone.

I picked up a bunch of barber hones soon after I started this whole thing:

The Tilly "three" pack
Little Devil (how heck do you lap this thing!)
Swaty 3 line
Wester Bros. combo hone
2 Carborundum hones

I've never been able to get them to work for me - not that I've really taken the time to work with them. I've pretty much just stuck with with my "big" hones and pastes. I'd like to get back to the barber hones at some point though. I "want" them to work - if you know what I mean. :shrug:

Jordan

Jordan,

See my post above, before everyone convinces you that I'm a loon.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AFDavis11

Jordan,

See my post above, before everyone convinces you that I'm a loon.

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Thanks Alan. What you're saying makes sense (at least as much sense as anything else I read on honing ;) ) I often allow myself to get distracted by new toys before I really "get" how one particular hone works. I haven't touched my barber hones in over a year now. When I get back to them, I'll certainly keep your suggestions in mind. :)

Jordan

I have a few barber hones. My favorite is a Carborundum No.106, it feels coarser than a Norton 8k, but cuts so much slower that it puts a very nice edge on my razors.

I just won a Carborundum No.102 from ebite, so I can post comparison pics of the hones, and my two bits about differing cutting speed etc. when I get it in, lap it up and take it for a ride.


Also, this thread needs more hone porn. Give it up y'all!:D

"Hone-Porn" ?...........:y .........(that works for me) ! ! !

Now, mind you, I'm somewhat of a beginner here, so here's my thought:

Barber-Hones are for use on a razor that is perfectly honed, and is shaving
properly ?.......(yes or no) ?

I wonder how often a real barber used his hone ?

Daily ?......Weekly ?......Monthly ?.............

(I'm really enjoing this guys !.......Let's get down to the real "nuts & bolts" of this ! ! !)

Marko.....

from what I understand, they came in a wide range, Tilly sells some that are coarser, but still for razors.

The usual barber hones (Carbo's, Swaty's etc) are for finish work and maintenance when the blade pulls.

I have a cool card and box that came with my Carborundum, I will post pics of it here, that tells how you are supposed to use it and when.

Hope this helps!:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AFDavis11

One thing I've noticed is that all hones are good. Its your technique that is fitted for the hone or not. Hone speed for example is reflected in your stroke, etc. I also find that even subtle differences in grip while honing can influence your success.

I'd suggest when using a barber hone that you follow the directions specifically in the barbers manual on how to hone. I've always wondered why barber's texts described such an odd grip for honing. I've since figured it out. So if you have the grip down for a Norton don't use it for a barber hone. I've always just thought the grip would be the same for every hone, shows how much I know.

6-10 strokes are common for a barber hone so Lynn's advice, as usual, is right on the money. Some hones come with instructions to use "airy" strokes (I read that as light).

Again, I recommend the directions in the barbers manual when using a barber's hone . . . go figure, I know, but . . . the finger placement is pretty quirky but works wonders with a barber hone.

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Picture an old barber with a hone

Greetings

Dioni

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joke1176

I have a few barber hones. My favorite is a Carborundum No.106, it feels coarser than a Norton 8k, but cuts so much slower that it puts a very nice edge on my razors.

I just won a Carborundum No.102 from ebite, so I can post comparison pics of the hones, and my two bits about differing cutting speed etc. when I get it in, lap it up and take it for a ride.


Also, this thread needs more hone porn. Give it up y'all!:D

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I won a Carborundum No.102 when I first started with straights , my first hone which still hold a place in my arsenal - fairly fast cutting for a little barber hone still leaves you with have a fantastic finished edge . I tend to use lather on mine when I use it ..

I like the Swaty.

I also like:

Velvet Edge
Dixie
Honeright


And I have some others I haven't gotten working yet.

Estroncio,

Yes, thanx for that. I haven't quite interpreted the finger positioning that I've been reading about.

Whats happening in that second picture?

here's my cute little friend
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSC06800.jpg

here's a side view

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSC06806.jpg

here's the directions from the box top, pretty cool stuff really. It cuts slower dry, (about 10K I guess) and pretty fast wet/with lather (about 6K)

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1.../Honelabel.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Garry

I won a Carborundum No.102 when I first started with straights , my first hone which still hold a place in my arsenal - fairly fast cutting for a little barber hone still leaves you with have a fantastic finished edge . I tend to use lather on mine when I use it ..

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I'm pretty pumped to get it and put some blades on it. I can't wait to compare to my No.106. If it's half as good as the 106, I will be thrilled.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AFDavis11

...Whats happening in that second picture?

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I think the razor he is honing is so sharp, the air around the blade is spontaneously combusting as the molecules get split. :rolleyes:

I was afraid of that. I get some flame off my hones too when I hone, and add lighter fluid, and use a lighter.

My hones are a Keen Kutter,Barbers,Duro and I have a box of 4 never used Velvet Edge. I think the more extravagant hones used by the other guys are more for restoration work than anything else. If you start with a keen edge, it should be easy to maintain. Unless some thing happens such as a run-in with Mr. Faucet.

I have an old Carborundum hone that I never could find a number on. After reading this thread I cleaned it up and it is printed 101-A. It came in one of those old Gold medal award winning boxes that has seen better days. I have never thought about using it until now. I wonder what grit it is? Anybody have an idee?

Fred

This is the True Edge hone I was asking about. Is this actually a razor hone? I haven't tried touching a razor to it, wanted some input on it first lol.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/DSC00127.jpg Shown wth the Robeson I purchased from DrFred for size comparison.

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/Dsc00125.jpg

http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q...d/DSC00126.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drfred

I have an old Carborundum hone that I never could find a number on. After reading this thread I cleaned it up and it is printed 101-A. It came in one of those old Gold medal award winning boxes that has seen better days. I have never thought about using it until now. I wonder what grit it is? Anybody have an idee?

Fred

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Hey Fred, as soon as I get my sweaty little paws on my Carbo No.102, I will compare and get back to you on this.

from what I have heard here and on B&B, the higher the number, the coarser the grit.

Like I said, I will get back to you on this.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by freebird

This is the True Edge hone I was asking about. Is this actually a razor hone? I haven't tried touching a razor to it, wanted some input on it first lol. Shown wth the Robeson I purchased from DrFred for size comparison.

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I have a Robeson Suredge, and it is damn hard. I think a few test passes (after you lap it) on that hone, would be OK to do.

do you have a microscope to check it? If you do, hone 5 passes or so on one side only and compare both sides. If it is a little coarse, that few passes won't wreck an edge, and it should give you a good idea where it stands, as far as grit.

That being said, if that Robeson is shaving perfect for you, I would test it on another razor just to be safe. But I am super paranoid. :p

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Markopolo

Well, maybe I'm just a little lazy, and don't want to search this entire (massive) web-site to find what I'm looking for......so I thought the easy way would be to just start ANOTHER THREAD ! ! ! :cen

Let's talk about good, old-fashion, ceramic BARBER-HONES !

If any of you have kep't up with my posts, you would know that I'm
somewhat of a "NEWBEE" ! ! ! :roflmao

(a little "comic-relief" there...........)

OK, I got ahold of "Red-Trader".......and a couple-hundred dollers later, I've got:

* Kimberley
* Edgemaker
* Wester Bros.
* Little Devil
* Franz Swaty
* Amalgamite
* "It's A Peach"

NOW COMES THE FUN !

You veterans out there.......START POSTING ON THESE !

Are there different grades ?
I suppose you use them with water ?
Different grits ?
Is one better than the other ?
On Lynn's video, he say's "5 easy strokes to restore an edge"......is that good info ?

Come on guys......let's load this thread up with great info. on BARBER HONES !

THANKS !........ Marko.

---

Wellie-well...........so Tilly holds out on posting quite of few of her hones on her website. Very interesting and also very clever for you to wrangle them out of her. I came in past the days when many of her hones you have were ripe for the pickens and assumed they were all snatched up. Why would she not post more than the Lithide, Little Devil and one or two others?????

Chris L

Quote:

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Originally Posted by joke1176

I have a Robeson Suredge, and it is damn hard. I think a few test passes (after you lap it) on that hone, would be OK to do.

do you have a microscope to check it? If you do, hone 5 passes or so on one side only and compare both sides. If it is a little coarse, that few passes won't wreck an edge, and it should give you a good idea where it stands, as far as grit.

That being said, if that Robeson is shaving perfect for you, I would test it on another razor just to be safe. But I am super paranoid. :p

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Yes it is, the Robeson just got back from the dentist. ;)
No, I don't have a micoroscope, that's one thing I haven't picked up. Although I might hit a few flea markets and see what I can scare up.

Has anyone here tried the Taylor's of Old Bond Street silicon carbide honing stone? I've been ogling it, even though I was told by someone here that you can get better, larger (it's 1x4) barber's hones off of eBay. The thing is, with shipping costs and all, the Taylor being avaiable locally turns out cheaper.

Does silicon carbide need lapping? I see that the Norton lapping stone is made of silicon carbide, which leads me to believe that silcion carbide itself does not need lapping.

But I'm rambling. Has anyone tried it? Or do you all cringe at the mere mention of it, and I risk being banned from the thread? ;)

If none of you have tried it, maybe I'll buy it, try it and report back. :D

Can't say anything about the TOBS hone but what I do know is these Carborundum stones we're talking about are made of Silicon Carbide ( hard as hell so I hope you wouldn't have to lap it ) ..
I can't fault my little 102 it's easy to use and gives great results ...
Why not pop into TOBS and ask there advise

Garry

Ah... I said "locally". Half a truth there. It's available through a norwegian online retailer - we don't have any actual TOBS shops here.

Anyway, so silicon carbide is pretty hard then. ;) Forgive my ignorance, but barber's hones are mostly finishing and edge-maintaining hones, right? Or does it depend on the particular hone?

Your correct , from my experience ( not a lot :) .. ) and from what I've read on the forum .. Barber hones are mostly used for touching up an edge , one thats became a little dull - maintenance like you said ..
I have however heard some people do use them exclusively for all there honing needs -- you need to be pretty dedicated to do that IMHO and I recon most of the memebers here would suggest a norton or another fast cutting stone which would be more ideally suited for resetting a bevel ,and creating a good edge ..

When I started out all I had was a little barber hone :eek: , they're nice to have and ideal for just touching up

Tilly .. you may have heard mentioned here sells barber hones , I bought the beginners set a few years ago , nice little hones for starting out with
heres a link to her page , sdoesn't look like there much left ,but I suggest maybe emailing her ansd asking what she has available .. She is an absolute pleasure to deal with ..

http://www.redtrader99.com/hones.html

Garry

ChrisL........It sure seems like Tilly has more "goods" than she's willing to let on to.....(Hell's Bell's, she bought a WHOLE hone company) !

I dealt with her via E-Mail......not on her web-page.

.....and YES !.......She is an absolute JOY to deal with ! :)

Marko.....

All hones should be lapped for best performance, including barber hones. Also, the Norton flattening stone requires intermittent lapping.

I usually shave right off of either a Swaty 2-line or a Carborundum Company pocket razor hone (1.5"x4"). My Carborundum hone is much harder than the Swaty and the edge from the Carborundum feels a bit sharper. Both have been lapped.

90% of the time I use them dry, sometimes with water, and rarely with lather. Five light laps to refresh the edge works well for me.

I just got me Carbo No.102, lapped it (except for one low spot, I got impatient) and took it for a test hone.

It leaves a finer finish than the No. 106. Visible to the naked eye, and under microscope.

I will post a few pics, and a few side by side shots of them both when I get to it today or tomorrow.

Here's an odd hone I got at a local junk shop for $5

It came with a fitted box, no labels or anything. I think it might be a hard black arkansas stone.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSC06816.jpg

I lapped it up and it had a pinkish, purple-ish swarf.... the pic doesn't show the color properly on the cut edge. As far as hardness goes, when lapping it compared to my Carborundum hones.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e1...6/DSC06822.jpg

It is about 6"x5"x1/2". It was glued into the box, at least until I pulled it out :rolleyes:.

I took it for a test hone on a Red Imp 133, it cuts pretty slow. After about 50 passes it started to polish the edge. It cuts faster when wet, but doesn't appear to load up when dry, at least not yet.

Any ideas? I'm stumped.