Thread: What do I do?

Yesterday, I picked myself up a Joseph Mappin Sun Razor, which is very close to being a wedge. It doesn't quite make contact all the way across the blade, but there is no visible curve or hollow grind to it at all. Anyhow...

I'm having a hang of a time getting this thing sharp. With about a hundred or so passes over a 900 grit, I've gotten the bevel a touch more even, but it really doesn't want to even out for me. It's visibly wider in the center than the toe or the heel. In fact, the heel has virtually no shiney bit at all. The heel doesn't really bother me too much (if anyone has an idea, though...) because I don't use the heel when shaving, but the toe is an issue for me. Even concentrating just on the toe, I can't get that shiney line to grow.

Also, with such a razor is it normal for it to take a gonzillion passes to notice any improvement what so ever?

I'll admit, I've only honed up five razors previous to this one, all of them hollow ground, but I had no where near the trouble with them as I did this one, despite one of them having a hugely uneven bevel (the toe of my Boker looked like it had never bloody well it the hone) and my Howson was a little wonky as well... But they honed up no trouble...

Any ideas?

It seems that both the heel and toe are not making contact with the hone. I suspect that you are using a wide hone and no tape on the spine. Also, are you using a heel leading stroke? You should be.

tell us more,

What do I do?

Well, as my wife's Great Grandmother would say: "Spit in a shoe!" But what a mess...

Really, do you aspire to be a straight razor restorer? Or more a straight razor shaver? Maybe both.

If a shaver, I'd say skip the vintage fixer-upers and get either new blades, or already reconditioned ones, and save yourself the headaches.

If the former, I can't help you much except to recommend asprin.


Scott

Thanks Scott, I think I will need the asprin. :P

Randy, I'm using a two and a half inch wide hone, no tape on the spine (I worry about wearing the tape and therefore altering the bevel as I hone). I've actually been using a toe leading stroke, I'll definantly switch though. The toe is making contact, good contact, actually. The heel isn't making much contact though, I may try a bit more rocking towards the heel...

Taking a good long look at the razor, I think I might see a bit more of my problem, the hone wear is much more significant nearer to the toe, which I guess may be changing my angle, but I would have thought that would cause more width on the shiney bit of the blade by the toe?

To be honest, I don't think it's far from becoming a full wedge, a bit more spine wear and the rest of the blade will make conact, I think, which is unfortunate... But it certainly would polish it up nice. :P

It would be a shame if I ruined the razor, or if it was already ruined before I touched it... I have to admit, I really quite like the razor in terms of appearance and weight, but I suppose it was only a matter of time before I got burned. Too much confidence, perhaps...

Those old, shallow ground razors that have a lot of hone wear are a real bear to hone. Most of us use black electrical tape to compensate for the hone wear. Otherwise you are trying to remove much more metal. I would use two layers and a heal leading rolling X pattern.
The other option is to have the razor reground.

Hope this helps,

Wow, what a difference the tape made!

The toe is still a little dull, but from about a quarter inch back all the way to the heel it's real nice and sharp.

I might try to work the toe a little more later tonight, but for now I'm very pleased.

Thanks a ton for the tip.

Glad to help! That what we are here for.