Thread: The Need for Lower Grit Stones

I tried the sandpaper thing, and use it frequently for roughing out knives, but I just can't say it's better because of the mess and extra fuss. For me it just streamlines the process to use hones all the way.

But sandpaper could be a very good option for someone who only needs to do rough work occasionally. Thanks for reminding us!

Originally Posted by Wildtim

I'm the 1000 grit paper guy. I've never seen a need for a low grit STONE but something that can remove a nick or re-set a bevel in this lifetime is a necessity to me. I just have never seen the need for an expensive stone to do it with. Over the last couple of years of honing, I've probably used up almost three bucks worth of 1000 grit wet dry paper I figure by the time a 1000 grit Norton or DMT would be paid for I'll be long gone at this rate.

If you are very careful, never bump your blade and stay away from e-bay and out of antique shops you can probably get away with just 4000 and above indefinitely though

I know there are a few different systems out there but how do you use sandpaper for your razors? If there's a thread, then please give me a link. Thanks.

Originally Posted by Russel Baldridge

Is there a way you could post pics? Because it could be your honing technique as well the need for a lower grit stone. (I would indeed recommend the D8E for your case: http://www.craftsmanstudio.com/html_p/T!D8.htm )

I wouldn't put it past my technique this is my first non new blade, first smiling blade and certainly the heaviest grind that I own.

The blade is a 5/8 (toe and heal) - 6/8 (middle) W&B, for most of its length it is almost but not quite a full wedge but the first 5mm or so from the toe of the blade appears to be a full wedge as the scratch pattern goes from spine to edge (The first few strokes I didn't use tape which is how I know this) For the rest of the blade the scratch pattern showed up a couple of mm from the edge and has gradually been getting closer. I over estimated a little, I've just measured it an it is about 2mm for the most part only the toe gets to 3mm.

When I saw how far off the bevel was I decided that taping the spine would probably be my best bet, I've been using the rolling motion that you recently posted pictures about (BTW it was nice to see that I was actually doing it the "right" way) to get the whole of the edge in contact.

It's not the evenest bevel on the planet but I don't think it is too bad given the grind of the blade (If I look straight down at the edge it slants to the right like a / from heal to toe) and how far from set the bevel was.

And if I could get a DMT D8E at that price I would have left a bloody stump on the sellers arm. The cheapest I can get one for is £40 plus about £5 postage so about $90 and Craftsman don't ship internationally

Barney

If you use only new or near new razors, use a coticule and a natural leather strop as barbers have for centuries.

It looks like you have the correct motion. The blade is indeed very worn, give the sandpaper a shot and then go back to your higher stones, could be just the ticket for the immediate future.

Originally Posted by moviemaniac

IMHO everyone needs a coarser stone. Even when touching an edge up I go to the 1000 first. Why? Because over time and with all the stropping (and paste stropping) the bevel becomes rounded and you only can get a straight edge again if you start at the 1000 for 5 strokes or so. A 4000 would work too, but that's already where the finishing begins - these stones aren't meant for doing cutting work and setting the bevel, this is only done on the coarser stones. But, of yourse, you could not care about a straight bevel and a fresh, perfect edge and only use finder stones for refreshing the razor - it's all YMMV.

Just curious about your statement highlighted in red:

How long does this bevel rounding from stropping take? I've been stropping my razor daily for nearly a year and it's still giving me BBS one pass shaves. And no, I haven't used a hone to touch it up, nor pastes on my strop.


Scott