Printable View
Newbie here,
I now have in my possesion a lapped combo coticule 1.5" x 7" and a pasted paddle strop with 3, 1, .5 micron diamond paste. How should i progress to hone some razors that I have purchased on ebay? (the razors are sharp with no nicks in the blades) I know that I should use the X pattern heel leading. But no idea on the number of passes that I should do and if they should have any pressure.
Thanks!
The number of strokes depends on exactly how sharp the blade is to begin with. I'd recommend heel leading X strokes on the blue side until the edge is "sticky" (it cuts into the skin slightly upon touching it), then do do the same strokes on the yellow side until the edge pops hairs.Quote:
Originally Posted by stupidyank
No extra pressure other than what it takes to support the razor and move it across the stone.
Don't use the pasted strop until you need to refresh the edge. You'll learn a lot more about honing if you stick to the stone, then integrate the paddle once you have a feel for what it takes to make the edge correctly on the stone. Pastes are too often used to "make up" for any inconsistency in the edge but if you honed it correctly on the stone, there won't be any need to do so.
But pastes are good for a touch up in a hurry. In which case you'll really only need 5 to 10 passes on each paste, start conservatively and add more passes as necessary.
great! Thanks for the help!
It depends on the state of those razors bevels. If the cutting bevels are fine, it won't take more than 50 ultralight laps on the coticule, used with nothing more than water (no slurry). Possibly even less, but it would not waist much metal do do the 50 laps as a no-brainer.Quote:
Originally Posted by stupidyank
However, cutting bevels on ebay razors often require additional work. They may look fine, (definitely a good thing), but the previous owner may have honed with tape on the spine, or he may have honed on an "unflat" hone, or he may have used pasted strops for years, or he may have slaughtered sheep and honed the razor as a regular knife, with the spine lifted above the hone, or...
Many reasons why a razor could have a somewhat rounded bevel, or one with a deviating angle. The way to find that out is to do a Magic Marker Test. (covered in many posts in many threads)
IF the bevel needs work, you could jump to a coarser stone. I use a DMT-E (1200 grit) for that kind of work myself, but with some patience, a coticule knows how to tackle that job too. In that case, you need to create a good slurry. Some pressure in combination with a circling stroke will speed things up, but you need to be careful not to flex the blade (The razor's grind will define its stiffness and the pressure it can handle without flexing too much)
Performing the TNT in combination with a second MMT will reveal your progress with the bevel. As you reach completion, always refer back to regular light X-strokes. Heavydutysg135 wrote an excellent guide about the various tests for edge assessment: http://badgerandblade.com/vb/showthread.php?t=31640
After the bevel is ready, the aforementioned 50 laps with water only will result in a superb edge. Coming from a coticule, most razors need to be stropped, before performing a successful HHT.
+1 on what Russel said about the pastes.
Good luck,
Bart.