Guys, I've locked my honing tutorial thread while I'm writing it, but I'd love to hear your input on things I've missed or gotten wrong. :) Please post questions and suggestions here, and I'll consider adding them to the tutorial.
Thanks!
Josh
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Guys, I've locked my honing tutorial thread while I'm writing it, but I'd love to hear your input on things I've missed or gotten wrong. :) Please post questions and suggestions here, and I'll consider adding them to the tutorial.
Thanks!
Josh
Thanks for the great tutorial. You mentioned a conservative pyramid and an agressive pyramid in the beginning of your thread. However, you only mentioned the conservative pyramid. What is the sequence for the agressive pyramid?
Can you relate some of the details about why this works and what the advantages are compared to just moving up constantly in the fineness of the honing implement?
In your first post of the thread, where you introduce the sequence for the 'conservative pyramid', you list the sequence as:
1 stroke 4K, 5 strokes 8K
3 strokes 4K, 5 strokes 8K
5 strokes 4K, 5 strokes 8K
3 strokes 4K, 5 strokes 8K
1 stroke 4K, 5 strokes 8K
In the eleventh post (the one where you emphasize the delicate edge and mention the tip about the razor pushing a ripple of water across the surface of the stone), you list the sequence as:
One stroke on the 4K, flip, five on the 8K.
Three strokes on the 4K, flip, five on the 8K.
Five strokes on the 4K, flip, five strokes on the 8K.
Three strokes on the 4K, flip, five on the 8K.
One stroke on the 4K, flip, five on the 8K.
One stroke on the 4K, flip, five on the 8K.
So you have 5 lines if the first description, and six in the second. Is the last line of the second description a duplicate?
Thanks for the tutorial.
SC
That is neat. I can't believe you got a picture of the water ripple! Are no secrets sacred anymore? :)
Very nice job Josh.
I like the form on keeping the elbow up for a nice flat stroke.
Absolutely key is the light touch through out the stroke. You really don't want any extra pressure on the blade at all.
I normally use a pyramid that goes from 5 on the 4K and 5 on the 8K, 3 on each, then 1 and 3 and 1 and either 3 or 5. I can start as high as 10 and do 10 and 10 and 7 and 7 on the way down depending on the razor. You can also start at 15 and go down to 10 or at 25, 20, 15 and then to 10, but at that number you are getting more into a razor that might need bevel setting and some restoration.
This method has proven to be very consistent with new folks learning and as your pyramid is a little different, it is still very repeatable and successful.
Good stuff and thanks!!
Lynn
Excellent tutorial Josh. Way to go bro! :tu
Should def be a sticky aswell imho.
Very nice work!
One thing that drives me a bit nuts is the difference in honing a say 5/8th razor as apposed to a 7/8th or 8/8th W&B.
I never have any problems at all with a standard size razor but honing a large blade is a real challenge for me. I'm not sure if it's a bevel problem or what. The blade seems sharp and will drop arm hair just fine but when I get to shaving it's a no go and will not cut cleanly.
I've tried both pyramids. My equipment is a norton 1000/4000/8000 and an Escher. I use one piece of tape on all razors. After sharpening I make a few runs on ChromeOx then hit the strop.
Sham has been a great help or I wouldn't be using the right equipment or getting the smaller blades as sharp as they are. The choppers seem to need something I haven't found yet.
1. More tape for a more extreme angle?
2. Not enough strokes? (especially the bevel)
Hi Jimmy,
I have Lynn's video and have watched it several times and there is some great info there. I didn't see the thread or wiki on honing wedges so I'll head over there and read that one.
They are a different animal that's for sure:-)
Thanks!
Phil