I read some ppl had problems using sandpaper while lapping their nortons. Is that an often problem?
Thanks!
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I read some ppl had problems using sandpaper while lapping their nortons. Is that an often problem?
Thanks!
I don't know how frequent it is... All I can tell you is that I had problems the second time I lapped with abrasive paper and the hone was unusable until I flattened it with a Norton flattening stone. Grit too small to see or feel with your finger was embedded in the surface and you could feel the razor hit it. Nothing got it out but the flattening stone. I asked Howard Schechter at www.theperfectedge.com about it and he said that he doesn't like lapping with sandpaper for that very reason, that contamination is always possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by napoleon
On the opposite side of the above I have never had problems with lapping with sandpaper. Go figure.:confused: If you can afford a DMT lapping plate then that would be the safest bet.
In the end I got a almost free belgian combo. Can I lap them on the wet dry (and what grit, maybe different grit for each side) and can I have the same problems as some of you guys with the norton.
Use 320 grit for the basic work and 1000 grit to finish. You will have no problem with the sandpaper.
What do you mean basic work? Till the pencil lines are gone? And than finish with the 1000 grit?
Yes, exactly.:)
Lapping on sandpaper can be done but it's a tedious and messy process. I lap a lot of stones every week including Nortons and Belgians as well as others. I use a DMT8C which is the continuous diamond Coarse grit. Using the same one for almost 6 years now. I put it in the kitchen sink, adjust a stream of water over it sufficient to wash away the swarf as it forms and lap the stone until it's uniformly flat. The DMT is flat to .001" over the entire 24sq. in. of the stone (8x3).
+ 1 I don't lap as many stones but I will swear by the DMT8C for that purpose.Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard
Howard, how do you know when its completly level?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard
Ok, my name isn't Howard, but I can answer your question, simply make some pencil marks on the face of the hone you are flattening, I do a cross hatch pattern but any sort of squiggles will do, when all the pencil lines are gone, the hone is flat. I might redo the lines and do just a few back and forth motions to make sure the lines weren't removed by heavy slurry but that's about it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Basher052
I, and I know Howard does as well, when working on Coticules, won't worry about the extreme corners of a hone as they can sometimes drop off a bit. Flattening to the extreme corners on a hone with corners that droop just wastes a good deal of perfectly good stone that could be used before that last 1/2" of the corner is flat.
Regards
Christian
Oh sure, go the high tech route on me why dont ya? :D
That does make lots of sense. I saw myself with a compass and a micrometer.....:eek: