Uneven Bevel Issues

So I got BRAND new TI from AoS. It wasn't shave ready despite it saying so. So I did Lynn's pyramid on the 4/8k Norton to touch up the razor before I went to the 12K.

I lapped the Norton, then did the pyramid. I will still admit that I find it difficult maintaining the blade completely flat on the stone, but more difficult when honing away from the body than bringing it in.

So when i checked the edge of the blade, I noticed on the side which was honed moving away from the body, the bevel wasn't set :eek: but on the other side the bevel is pretty visible and thick. What gives??:shrug: I am assuming it's my technique which I will be reassesing.

But how can I correct this problem. Should I hone the no-bevel side ONLY with a DMT 320 then a 1200 to match the bevels and then reset the entire bevel by doing both sides 320 then 1200?

Before you start assuming that it was your honing that created the uneven bevel I would check the razor itself....
Lay the razor flat, on a known flat surface, so that you can look at the edge.. Place a light source behind the spine and see what happens, flip the razor and look again.....If the edge,spine or both are warped you will "See the Light".....
I would suggest this test on any brand new razor that you buy un-honed, this way, if it is warped there is no doubt about it when you ask for an exchange.....
If the razor is warped, and you cant return it, I highly recommend watching Heavyduty's 9 part vid on honing.... I think it is part 8 or 9 that shows a great demo of a rocking X stroke, this is your friend when honing a warped razor....

If you have an un-even bevel one of 3 things is wrong BTW
1. You are really, way off on yer honing stroke...
2. You have a warped razor
3. You have a un-evenly lapped stone...

Glen knows way more about this then I do but..... I always take a black felt tip marker and mark the edge. Do a few strokes and see if the marker comes off of the edge. If it comes off in some places and not others I have an idea of what I need to do with my stroke.

I find magnification to check progress before, during and after to be a great asset. The hand held microscopes are mentioned in many threads and are reasonably priced.

I have run into more then a few razors that didn't hone with the same thickness of bevel from one side to the other but I got them shaving sharp. I have also seen this on razors that I have gotten that were honed by noted honemiesters. Best of luck with it.

I'm not sure about the AoS return/exchange policy. If they'll let me I'll exchange it.
I checked it on my granite tile and noticed that the edge of the toe isn't laying completely flat, it's up just slightly. Would this be considered a warp and warrant an exchange?

Also can a razor be warped through honing, or is that a manufacturing defect?

I don't think it is possible to warp one through honing, the blade would break before the spine would bend...
I would take it in set it on their counter hopefully glass topped and ask what you should do with that???? I am of course assuming that you bought this at one of their shops... If not send a email and try and attach a pic...
Keep in mind that the razor can still be sharpened it just takes a little finesse....
BUT I would at least try.... to exchange it!!!!!!

Just a quick note... there is no reason to use a 320 grit on a razor with no visible nicks. The 1200 would be more than adequate for the job. I seldom use anything coarser than 1000 grit and then only to remove nicks.

There should be a bevel ob both sides of the blade but they do not need to be exactly the same width nor is there a need for the same width for the entire length of the blade on any one side. The only requirement is that there is some bevel on both sides.

It does not sound like your razor is warped. It sounds like your honing stroke is in need of more practice. Work on the one side with the 1200 until the bevel is established then do a pyramid or two.

Just my $.02,:)

Honing front and back may not be suitable for you. I personally hone sideways -- right-to-left, left-to-right -- as I have better control of the stroke.

I've tried side to side honing and I just can't do it. I suppose whatever way you first do it is likely to be the way you will stick with.

I started with the up and back motion, but switched to sideways after feeling I wasn't getting acceptable performance the other way. I only thought to try it after seeing others use the side stroke. I figured I had nothing to lose at the time. It ended up working out for me. :)