I just got my Chinese 12k from woodcraft..Great Success!!!:tu
Does it need any flattening or anything? If so I have the norton flatening stone, will this do the trick and shoud i do like I do on my Norton 4/8k?
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I just got my Chinese 12k from woodcraft..Great Success!!!:tu
Does it need any flattening or anything? If so I have the norton flatening stone, will this do the trick and shoud i do like I do on my Norton 4/8k?
No it won't. Norton flattening stone is not hard enough to lap the chinese stone, the chinese will probably just eat away at the flattening stone. Also, I noticed the norton flattening stone left my norton 4/8k a little rough. I bought a dmt 8c which works awesome but of course is more money for yet another stone.
I know some people here mention that they have used 3m wet/dry sand paper to lap on a glass or tile that is perfectly flat. Probably don't have to worry about grit being embed since it's such a smooth stone.
Not to take anything away from Woodcraft (I bought my DMT's from them), but if you buy a 12k Chinese stone from Chris L, it comes perfectly lapped and shaped.
Most likely, you will find that the 12k is not even close to flat. It will take patience to get it flat as it is quite hard but it will be worth the wait! I think Chris still has some slurry stones left in the Classifieds so you might want to get one before they are gone. Adding a slurry to this stone definitely broadens its usefulness and speeds up this very slow cutter.
:cry: I'm confused now, so I should flatten it. But with what again?
Sandpaper? What grit in that case?
Or something else?
I'd use 600-1000 grit wet-dry sandpaper (used wet) on a flat surface.
Jordan
Go ahead and start with the 600 to 1000 sandpaper. If you find that the hone is significantly not flat, that is, you find a high spot that is being cut and the rest of the hone is not being touched, then I would suggest that you switch to a coarser paper in the 200 to 300 range. Then, when you find that the hone is nearly lapped, then go ahead and switch back to the finer paper. Doing this will make it go a lot faster.
Huge +1. I've only had mine a few days, but that's long enough for me to have several hours of honing time on it already. :) I can't imagine not having a slurry stone with the 12k. I'm now getting *very* good results with this stone. Laps with slurry til the DMT scratches are no longer visible under the microscope, then just water for another 100 laps. I did this today on an eBay Boker I'm giving to a friend for Christmas... Bevel set on DMT 1200, sharpened on DMT 8000, then the 12k for several jillion with slurry, then 100 water only. I'm stropping it up for tomorrow's shave right now. The Chinese 12k kinda turned things around for me (in a good way).
Honestly, I can't believe that demand hasn't soared through the roof for this stone.
Ok thanks for the help guys, but I have one more question:
As I've understood it is just the surface that needs to be flattened so the whole surface is all in the same level and the blade touches the surface at all times. But I noticed the sides of the stone are uneven is this a problem or is it normal? The best pic is the last one shows this the best if you look on the spirit level i used.
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Every natural stone I've had has been slightly nonparallel with the horizontal but I don't think that should affect your honing unless it is severe. And if you can hold the hone in your hand while you sharpen, that may help as well to offset the tilt.
You might see the slurry or water on the hone tending to drift to one side of the hone as it sits on a flat surface, but I generally flip the stone around every few strokes anyway so that it really doesn't seem like much of an issue to me.
I'm curious to see if anyone here levels off their natural stones so that each surface is either parallel or perpendicular to the other
Why would it matter if it were out of level? I agree that flatness is the only parameter that needs to be met. If the stone were shaped like a big triangle, would that stop you from honing? as long as the edge of the razor makes proper contact with a properly flat stone, then all is well.
Ok, great! Thanks guys..what would a newbie do without you!?
Agreed. Flatness across the surface, yes. Level? Not important.
I do have a natural coticule combo 8"x3" that is of course flat across the surface but out of level from one side to the other by about 1/8" or a bit more. It takes a handful of strokes when I blow the dust off of it and start honing because it's not level by a noticeable degree. Still, no big deal.
Chris L