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when you hone what tests do you do in your progression?
am i doing them incorrectly off hone?
I am honing a DA on norton 4k/8k, didn't really find any test worked, stropped on CrO and leather, after this the HHT(was popping) and arm hair test worked.
Shaved with it, a little razor burn on jaw and neck from ATG i'd say.
i have read that you should have the hairs popping with the HHT off the 4k and i have had them pop sometimes but i usually don't get them really popping until hitting the 8k, but i am new and this may not be right. hopefully someone can clear this up as it is something i wonder about when trying to do the HHT. the TPT is OK but i have to try it more to be able to tell, i always doubt myself and think it may not be quite sharp. again i am new so i am not discouraged by this. i think it would be great to get all the pros to list off their tests and at what grit they use which test. good job.
what is your honing technique like, do you do a certain amount on the 4k then on 8k?
how many?
You will find these two articles from the Wiki helpful:Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostRida
Good luck.
I would include looking at your stropping technique. Hair popping = sharp razor, razor burn = unsmooth edge.
It's a common misconception that HHT == shaveready.
I have once used my dremel to completely remove an edge (turn a 6/8 into a 5/8) and then recreate the edge with a DMTD8c (325 grit) and it popped hairs like mad after the DMT.
the reason is that rough edges -> pointy serrations -> grab hair easily -> pop.
Even when honing a razor on the norton 4K/8K, I get good HHT off the 8K.
But if I then polish on a coticule, the HHT always fails, because it smoothens out the serration-> hair doesn't grab->hair bounces off.
My main test is the thumb nail test to check if the razor has good bevels along the length.
After that I do -generally- a set number of strokes on the 4K/8K, followed by a number of strokes on the coticule or nakayama. The behavior of the water is what tells me when it is done (this will come more easily with experience). The only real test is the shavetest.
I say show that razor some love on the 8k for a while before going to the pasted strop again. I bet it will smooth it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostRida
Ok i will read the wiki and give the 8000 more of a go, thanks.
read this for testing an edge good reading
Section 6-6, Sharpness Tests Vs. Edge Uniformity Tests - Bevel Creation Guide - Badger & Blade
I use the TPT regularly while honing and the HHT to determine when to finish with the Norton. Then it's a very modest amount of ultra fine polishing, strop and TST.
X
You know, I think any non-destructive sharpness test will do the trick, once you calibrate it to your shave tests and different razors.
I find them indispensable when honing because it is such a pain to get all setup for the shave only to find it is dull or whatever and have to head back to the other side of the house to the Hone Room.
It is true that the ultimate test is the shave test, but the hirsute tests can be made an arbitrarily close approximation to the shave test with experience and attention. For me, for example, I know I am in for a good shave if the razor cuts arm hairs in a certain way, at a certain speed, and at a certain height. I know this because I have done this test in basically the same way before each and every shave since I started honing, and eventually I figured out what the test did before good shaves, on a range of razors.
Pick one or two tests, stick with them, and calibrate them to your shave tests. That's what I'd do. :gl:
James.
Bingo!!!...Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo
If I have to set a bevel, that usually happens at 1200 grit. My test there is how easily the blade 'falls' thru paper towel with a push/slice and if it will HHT a stiff boar's hair bristle. Splitting the hair is close but 'no cigar'. The 4000 stage can often resolve that but I like to get it earlier. Everything after that goes fairly quickly & polishes and further refines an edge that I know is sharp. As Bruno points out that aggressive edge gives way to a smoother edge at the Coticule and the Chinese 12K, my finisher - However post stropping with the pastes & then leather, the edge will usually treetop arm hairs a la Jimbo 'hirsute test'. Irritation is rarely an issue unless I've rushed the polishing stages but occasionally it's back to the Chinese 12K. Also some steels are harder than others and are just more work all round.
It's been said before the early grits are VIP but you may well get it sweet with the 8000.