Flattening

I haven't seen this stated explicitly, but I've pieced together from things people have mentioned in passing that a Norton flattening stone won't be able to flat a DMT 1200 grit (possibly even a cuticule, as well?). I've already looked at the important honing threads and wikis, but they don't really state this very explicitly, though it could be inferred. I've been deciding whether I can afford to get a DMT 1200 grit for a while, will it be necessary that I get a stronger flattening stone than the Norton flattening stone that I have now? If so, should I get the D8XX, or would that be overkill? I'm also curious as to whether it should be sufficient for flattening a Shapton and Naniwa.

The DMT's don't need lapping.

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Originally Posted by KingHarvest

I haven't seen this stated explicitly, but I've pieced together from things people have mentioned in passing that a Norton flattening stone won't be able to flat a DMT 1200 grit (possibly even a cuticule, as well?). I've already looked at the important honing threads and wikis, but they don't really state this very explicitly, though it could be inferred. I've been deciding whether I can afford to get a DMT 1200 grit for a while, will it be necessary that I get a stronger flattening stone than the Norton flattening stone that I have now? If so, should I get the D8XX, or would that be overkill? I'm also curious as to whether it should be sufficient for flattening a Shapton and Naniwa.

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Sounds like you are wanting to lap the DMT?!? Am I reading this correctly?

That was what I was asking, but it seems I was a very confused person.

Yeah, DMT's are basically a flat metal plate with nickel alloy substrate that anchors the diamonds.

That means only 1 layer of media, you knock that off, and it's nothing but a flat steel plate again.

Ahh, ok. So for breaking in the DMT, I just need to run the edge of a chisel over it until...? I'm not sure what I should look for in a scratch pattern to know that it's broken in.