Printable View
Hi,
I have a yellow C and a BBW on order, and it will come with a yellow slurry stone. Is there any issue using the yellow slurry stone with the BBW, or should I really look for a BBW slurry stone (or use a DMT hone )? I'm not sure if the yellow slurry stone would make the slurry too "strong" on the BBW.
Let me know what you think,
Chief
PS, Anybody have a BBW slurry stone you'd like to sell?
I haven't tried it before. I guess it would depend on how hard the yellow one is and what you are looking for in a slurry. I would imagine that the yellow coticle would mix in with the blue's slurry. If it is a soft yellow, then you might get more yellow than blue. If it's hard, you might get more blue than yellow. It might prove to be a nice step up between the coticle with slurry to the blue with slurry, but I'm not sure what the results of that would be. I have used a dmt with success in raising a slurry on the blue and the coticle before. It's easy to get a lot of slurry that way. If it gets too thick, just add water until it thins out. I have a natural combo that came with a natural combo slurry stone, but I find that the dmt is much quicker. If you have a large blue, you could lop the end off of it and make your own.
I don't much like contaminating the slurry stones, so keep them seperate, though I did experiment with Chinese 12k & Thuringian slurry, but not enough to come to a conclusion.
I also wrecked my DMT 1200 raising slurries with it, so make sure you're using the correct stone to do it!
BBW's are such a bargain that a slurry stone shouldn't cost much if you can get hold of one.
I don't think it will make any difference. I have both BBW and coti slurry stones. The coti slurry stone is quite soft. When I have tried it on the BBW I still end up with a purplish slurry. I have not noticed much difference between using one or the other (slurry stones, that is).
Unless setting a bevel, I tend to be as conservative as possible on raising slurry. So maybe in th enormal course of things (e.g. for touch ups etc.) it really doesn't matter which slurry stone to use on the BBW as it's only a very light slurry you're raising before you dilute it down anyway.
Cheers
M.
A BBW slurry stone ought to be pretty inexpensive. Why not pick one up for piece of mind? I think there's a chance Rich (zib) might have one as he seems to have and sell a number of cotis/bbws with slurry stones, and I think he might cut his own as he does with chinese 12k slurries. Plus he's a great guy and great to buy from as well. Try messaging him and see what he has (in case he doesn't see this and chime in himself).
Quote:
Originally Posted by pjrage
A blue slurry stone would seem the most straightforward route, the problem is I am having a hard time finding a source. Any help appreciated,
Chief
Did you contact Rich (username zib)? Otherwise, see what Howard at The Perfect Edge has to say?Quote:
Originally Posted by BHChieftain
I had the same question but in opposite order. I have a yellow Coticule 2X6 and just got a BBW 3x8 with slurry stone (BBW). Can I use the BBW slurry stone on the yellow when I want to produce a slurry to set bevels, etc?
Hi Guys, I would have to say No, To All. That is, Keep your slurries the same as the host hone, Only because your changing the grit when you do that. I'd be fun to experiment, but other than that, Keep them the same. C12K with C12K, Coti with Coti, BBW with BBW. Escher with Escher and so on A Coticule is ratred more or less at 8K, maybe higher. If you use a BBW, which is rated at 4k, maybe higher, your lowering the sharpening ablility. Using a BBW Slurry on a Coti would lower it's ability as well. You always want to keep them the same when possible. If you don't have a slurry, use some fine grit wet/dry sandpaper. Just like honing a blade, every time you take a DMT plate to your hone, your shaving away expensive Coticule or Eshcer, or whatever. Always try to get a slurry.
P.S. I'm waiting on a shipment of Coticule/BBW Combo Slurry Stones, I have each in stock now, only seperately....Rich
You can, but your changing the cutting ability, and the Garnets that are produced in the slurry. It's be great if I can Rob to chime in on this thread...Normally, you always want your slurry stone to match the host hone. I would think using a BBW Slurry on a Coti would increase, slightly the cutting ability.Quote:
Originally Posted by Disburden
However, When you produce a Slurry on a Coticule with a Coticule Slurry stone it is aggresive already.
I know Ardennes Coticule has given advice in the past that you can use a yellow slurry stone on the Blue. For use on chisels and other cutting tools, I agree. But for honing razors, we are aiming for extremely sharp edges.
All experiments I have done with the Coticules and Blues I have access to, were consistent in the following:
1. Use of slurry on BBW and Coticule puts a limit on the maximum sharpness you'll get off the hone. Without slurry a Coticule becomes a very slow finishing hone, only to be used on already higly refined edges. I'm not going to address the Blue with water right now, other than that it does not offer anything beneficial.
2. Coticule slurry has a lower keenness limit than Blue slurry.
It's much easier to reach sufficient keenness on the Blue with slurry than it is on a Coticule with slurry.
If you mix in yellow slurry on the Blue (by rubbing with a yellow slurry stone) you'll introduce part of the slurry limit of the Coticule.
At least, that's what I would expect, and that's why I do not recommend it when you're aiming for the maximum keenness you can get off the Blue, (before finishing that edge on a Coticule with only water, or even shaving right off the Blue).
I can't say I ever tried it, so this claim is not backed up by any empirical evidence, only by deduction of the difference between BBW and Coticule.
In absence of a Blue slurry stone, a DMT can be used, preferably a DMT-C. The DMT-E 's nickel matrix can be abraded by the Blue, if you use it extensively for lapping and raising slurry. The DMT-C digests such use far better.
In a pinch, also a good quality "wet and dry" sandpaper can be used. Use sandpaper in the 150 - 300 grit range on a small flat sanding block and beware for the paper loosing particles in the slurry (which is not that big of a problem with decent sandpaper).
Bart.