Printable View
OK, so I'M setting the bevel on my modded DA (I breadknifed it to tame the smile) and it is taking FOREVER. Seriously. I read the wiki, and I know this is normal, but man, do I want to shave with this thing already!
I seem to have plateaued on my 1k, and it just isn't getting any keener. It'll pop some arm hairs WTG, but ATG it just folds them over...*sigh*
Guess it's back to the 400...
Ok, I'm done venting.
It's funny you should mention it. I have honed up a couple dozen razors with no problems, but my DA gives me the same results you describe. I bought it new, and did so much work trying to get the bevel set to my liking that I put almost 2mm of hone wear on it. I still don't have it near as sharp as my other razors and where I would like it to be. This reminds me though, I ought to grab it and have another go at it.
DA's are okay. Not great, not bad, but a solid okay.
I wouldn't rely too heavily on your arm hair test at this stage. Given that the bevel setting takes all the time, how about you go ahead with the rest of your progression or pyramids and then do a test shave. If it shaves okay, you're done. If not, then you can go back to the 400 or 1k for another round of metal removal. It's worth a shot!
edit: Will learn to read the entire post next time.
Yeah, breadknifing it is very bad.
I use the PPT at this point. If there isn't a good
description of the palm-pad test around at this
point, I ought to do one with pictures.
- Scott
Jim a couple of quick questions that actually might help just from the asking...
Are you using 3 layers of tape like I wrote in the thread????
Did you fix the heel on the DA so that the entire blade is resting on the stone and not being lifted off the back 1/3 of the edge by the shoulder????
Hey Glen, what thread is that? I don't want to miss any of your great info!Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Thanks Glen, I started off without the tape, but I added three layers when I rechecked the wiki and realised I'd missed it. I used the tape on my Diamond 400 and took them off on the 1k, but I might have made a double bevel by doing that...read on.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
I established a bevel to the point where it would wipe hairs off my arm wet, so I decided to eventally go up the progression--BBW/Cot then finished off on my Shapton 12k pro and then CrOx. Now, here's the problem...There's still a clear step between the very cutting edge and a little further up the "shoulder" of the bevel. What I mean is, under magnification there's a very smooth, shiny area and then, just at the cutting edge, it has a rougher look to it. I'm still going to shave test it tomorrow, but I'm afraid I might have screwed it up...
By removing the tape going to finer grits, you'll reshape your entire "wide" bevel (I call it that lacking a better name) to a more narrow, pointier one, and here's the problem, starting at the outside. So you'll get the smoother surface, at a different angle, further away from the actual edge, but where the sides touch, you'll still have your 400 grit "wide" bevel. If you want I can draw a diagram using my finest of Paint-skillz. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by JimR
Glen is right you will need to have set bevel with 3 layers of tape and keep that tape until you will finish up .This is the way get DA in shaving condition. Even then you will not have one of the best shave but shave will be ok.
I would say go back and set bevel with 3 layers on and move forward. :gl:
Yeah, setting the bevel with tape and removing it would give the results you describe. A double bevel of sorts, but it's the wrong kind. You have a reverse double bevel. Unless you spent a ton of time on the 1k, you basically have a situation where the very edge is rough because it's only finished with the 400, but up the bevel a bit, where it was hit after you took the tape off, is polished up nicely. Basically, you aren't sharpening and polishing the very edge.Quote:
Originally Posted by JimR
When taping, you don't want to start with tape and finish without. If using tape, and you want to remove it, you need to do it in reverse of what you did.. start without (or with some) and add more. This gives the true double bevel.
LISTEN to Utopian,:bow He honed a DA for me and it's one of the best shavers I now have.:bowQuote:
Originally Posted by Utopian
This is the thread that we were referring to
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ged-blade.html
For those that are giving honing advice here, keep in mind that this step must be completed first, before the advice on honing has any relevance...
Bread-knifing is a restoration technique, and doesn't transform into straight honing until the rough bevel is complete...
Therefore what seems backward use of taping, actually is not...
Thanks guys. I tried the DA out and, as expected, the shave was no good. Dull as ditchwater.
So I think I need to take it back down to the 1k and get the bevel where it ought to be. One thing that is encouraging...the polished part of the bevel looks really really smooth under magnification, so I was doing something right. Except, you know....honing my razor. That part I screwed up. :o
Here's the thing, though...I don't think I want a taped spine. That double bevel would make my barber hones useless, right? So I don't want to go through the whole progression with 3 layers of tape...can I drop back down to the 1k and take off the "shoulders" of the double bevel to the point where it meets the true bevel? Does that even make sense?
Glenn, could you please explain in more detail how taping the spine at the bevel setting stage DOESN'T result in a double bevel? I think I understand, but I'm not sure....when you say to make a "true bevel" on the 1k, is that where you eliminate the double bevel effect that I ended up with?
Jim you can back that bevel down as you go if you want all the way to bare spine
The reason you start with the 3 layers is to start cutting the bevel evenly, it basically works the same way as the factory does it....
You can actually stage it down 1 layer at a time if you want
To eliminate 1 layer of tape's bevel cut takes 20-30 laps on a Norton 1k as a rule of thumb...
I want to thank you guys for your advice and encouragement. I finally got this one shaving...I used Bart's one coticule method, and threw in Shapton 12k for good measure. Getting some very nice shaves...and they're all the better for the frustration it took to get there.
Thanks!
go for it :tuQuote:
Originally Posted by sebell
Congrats Jim!Quote:
Originally Posted by JimR
I bought a DA. I hate to say it, but "what a bargain":eek: well, the blade is. The scales were put on by the only guy in the sweat shop with a serious hand eye co-ordination problem.
When I got it it was as sharp as a good knife. I ran it up and down a DMT 1200 with a stroke that put a neat narrow bevel along the whole edge, rolling, angled,.. whatever!!.
I didn't need to do much honing gymnastics as the blade was pretty straight TBH.
So far, so good. I then did enough laps on a BBW with slurry to get rid of the 1200 scratch marks. Then onto Coticule with water till it felt TPT sharp. I rarely get a razor to make arm hair "leap" off just the coticule.
I then made the bevel and spine wear look like a mirror on Cro2.
Now arm hair jumps up on the aproach of the razor:D
Maybe I was lucky, It was an easy razor to hone, at least mine was.