barber's hone looks worse the more it's lapped

So I've been sanding the beejezus out of this barber's hone for probably a total of 5-6 hours. First I used 150 grit wet/dry sandpaper until pencil grids I drew on it sanded off quickly and evenly. Then, once it was flat, I progressed to 280 and then 600 grit sheets.

The problem, as you can see, is that the more material I remove, the more little crevices and pits appear. Has anyone else had a barber's hone behave this way? Any advice regarding using it as is, continuing to lap it, etc?

(click to enlarge)

http://i43.tinypic.com/35mgtpd.jpg ..... http://i40.tinypic.com/2uykky9.jpg

I have one that does the same thing. I now use it in the kitchen instead, since it will wreck razor edges.

I would try it on a razor you don't really care about, and see what the result is.

Some man made hones seem to do that when there is too much slurry on the sand paper.
Try to keep it cleaner and use more water.

Here is an old thread where JimR had a similar problem and a happy ending. Maybe yours will come out alright too. :shrug:

Thanks for the replies!

After looking at the scratch pattern, I noticed that they do seem to somewhat follow circles - kind of like stars in a time-lapse photo going around the North Star. This likely reflects my sanding motions, so I think Olivia hit it on the head; tiny particles of the "harder" variety may be breaking loose and chipping away bits of the softer binder. After sanding for just a few seconds, I can feel particles when I run my finger across the hone. I'm not sure I'll ever be able to do anything but REALLY gentle sanding on this hone.

As an alternative, I tried lapping it with a translucent Arkansas stone under running water. It does produce a muddy runoff, so that's good, and I do believe the pits are slowly getting shallower rather than deeper. I'll keep at it for a while every day and see if I can eventually get a smooth surface. Updates to follow.

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Originally Posted by northpaw

As an alternative, I tried lapping it with a translucent Arkansas stone under running water. It does produce a muddy runoff, so that's good, and I do believe the pits are slowly getting shallower rather than deeper. I'll keep at it for a while every day and see if I can eventually get a smooth surface. Updates to follow.

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That's how I do it. As a benefit, it polishes the arkansas up very nicely, which makes it behave like an even finer grit hone.

The unfortunate reality is that not all barber hones can tolerate being lapped. You best bet though probably is that Arkansas stone, with a lot of water.

I'd add that if your barber hone is properly lapped (uniform flat surface on the finished barber hone), the pores you show in your picture will most likely NOT cause any problem with your razor edges. Using lather when touching up with that hone will also work well as it will fill in those pits. Recessed areas in a honing surface if the surface is uniformly flat don't catch on an edge. Putting a bevel on the edges or rounding the edges of the hone is important.

Chris L

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Originally Posted by ChrisL

I'd add that if your barber hone is properly lapped (uniform flat surface on the finished barber hone), the pores you show in your picture will most likely NOT cause any problem with your razor edges. Using lather when touching up with that hone will also work well as it will fill in those pits. Recessed areas in a honing surface if the surface is uniformly flat don't catch on an edge. Putting a bevel on the edges or rounding the edges of the hone is important.

Chris L

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:gaah: I should have said that. Thanks for the reminder.

That is a good point, somebody around here, Sticky mebbe? uses the DMT stones with the "slurry holes" in them for honing and he thinks it works just fine.

Just as long as those holes aren't indicative of a crumbling hone surface. My little barber hone that has the same surface appearance is kinda crumbly and rough, even when lapped properly.

Yes those could be good.
Anything with enough space, holes or groves to keep the slurry away from the hone.

I first noticed those holes when I started to hone razors and I wanted to recycle my old Apex that was heavily dished.
I had a screen type of silicon carbide sheet but it wore off fast.
The last rounds made exactly the same pattern into my hone - that was actually doing fine until then - when the screen was all full of slurry and I thought that it would help to get done faster and moved on.

Had a sample of some sort of lapping linen from 3M later but these things do not endure. They are good as long as there is enough space for the slurry but as soon as it piles up and grinds the stone itself, it kinda nukes it.

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Originally Posted by joke1176

I have one that does the same thing. I now use it in the kitchen instead, since it will wreck razor edges.

I would try it on a razor you don't really care about, and see what the result is.

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+1

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Originally Posted by joke1176

That is a good point, somebody around here, Sticky mebbe? uses the DMT stones with the "slurry holes" in them for honing and he thinks it works just fine.

Just as long as those holes aren't indicative of a crumbling hone surface. My little barber hone that has the same surface appearance is kinda crumbly and rough, even when lapped properly.

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Yup. I use them without problems. I suppose one could catch a spike-point (that was warped) in one of the recesses; I haven't done it yet.

DMT says their polka-dot hones are more aggressive than the continuous hones. I can't tell much difference, and I use 3 micron in polka-dot and continuous.

I don't worry as long as most of the hone is flat. Several of my barber hones have a slightly pitted surface and still work o.k. Another was assigned to kitchen knives like Joke1176's; and two or three others were so crumbly that they were tossed.