It would appear the razor was not ground “true” or is warped at the factory either way will make it more difficult to properly hone then one that was ground true and the blade unwrapped. Though annoying, it is common occurrence with some vintage razors as well as newly manufactured ones because they are all ground by hand.
First you may want to contact the vendor and let them know of the issue, I am sure they would be happy to set things “straight”.
If you prefer to try with it in that condition you must first determine if the blade is indeed warped…
Look down the spine from the tail end (sighting down the barrel), the spine should be straight. Flip the blade down and look along the edge, the edge should be straight. If you can see any warp then you may have a bad one… get it replaced.
If you cannot see the warp then lay the blade flat on the hone, there should be no perceptible space between the edge and the hone from heel to toe for most of the edge (except for smiling edge razors)… if you can see space (but cannot see as in the previous paragraph) then you have a mild one… it may still be usable.
If you are have one that is warped the best thing to do is not to hone straight up and down the hone or you will get uneven hone were. Instead hone using the “X” stroke on the last ˝ inch of the long edge of the hone, this will ensure that the entire edge will contact the hone along that “strip” of the hone during the stroke, a narrow hone (about 1.5”) to get the job done as well.
If I have not explained this well there are articles witch mentions honing a warped blade in the SRP Wikki
Here
Bevel-setting in theory and practice - Straight Razor Place Wiki
Scroll down to Troubleshooting
And here
A simple honing method with DMT-E, Belgian Blue Whetstone and Coticule - Straight Razor Place Wiki
Hope this helps and please keep us informed of your progress (good or bad).