I can't keep it sharp

I've done it again! This is the second time I've had a good shave and then it all goes blunt.:banghead:
When the edge starts to get dull, I strop,then when that doesn't work,use the only stone I have (Belgian blue) I don't know why I got that one I haven't a clue what I'm doing with any of it.:banghead:
It can't be that I don't know how to use a straight razor or I wouldn't have got two great shaves.The great shaves are why I won't give up on it.
I really need some advice on what hones to get and how many laps to do to maintain an edge.
Like I said,now that I have experienced the close comfortable shaves that are really only acheived with a straight, I can't give up now it's so frustrating:banghead::banghead: Oh me head! :)

OK, there are a few issues here that need to be hashed out.
You've gotten two great shaves? Then how long until the razor became "dull?" If you were really well shaved, you had a sharp razor, and a simple stropping should have done it. Are you 100% on your stropping technique? Now, if it's been 15+ shaves (beginner technique a tough beard, you could theoretically need a touchup)...the blue wouldn't be my first choice. A barber's hone is really nice for those quick touch-ups. Can put off the need for a full honing for quite some time. Also, a strop with some Chromium Oxide could give you that bit of sharpness that you are looking for. When I started, I used a C12K for touchups, and it worked fine, though it required many more laps. Some people also use the Couticle with just water as a touch up...though I have not tried that.

I have only very recently, and with a ton of experimentation, gotten the "feel" for how and when a blade needs which stone...and I have a TON more to learn...I almost wish my blades dulled faster, so I could practice!

Edit: That belgian blue is a great, versatile stone, and when you get into full honing as opposed to touchups, you will be THRILLED to have it!!

I can only think of two possibilities (although I'm sure there are more):

1. Inferior razor. I think one of the problems with inferior razors is that they don't hold an edge. What razor do you have?
2. Bad stropping technique. If you do it wrong you can dull the blade. Keeping the blade flat against the strop and using very little pressure is the key.

Question: Is the Belgian blue producing a sharp enough blade for you? I don't have any experience with one of those but I thought you really needed to go to a finer hone after that to get a good edge.

The razors I have are a Flic and a Clauss I don't think the make of razor is at fault.
I blunted the edge of the Flic a while ago when I saw rust spots forming and I stupidly took a bit of sand paper to it to try and remove them.
I got the Clauss recently from the classifieds.and the first time I used it I thought it wasn't too good but I only did a WTG pass and that's all.The second day, I did a WTG and ATG I got a great shave I mean even my chin and neck were smooth which prooves it was sharp enough for me anyway.The third shave wasn't so good but not too bad a little ruffness on the chin and neck and it's been ruff chin since then.Cheeks are ok though.I strop very carefully.When I had my first good shave I held the razor very lightly to my skin and I wonder if it's possible that leaning heavily with the razor against the skin can stop it cutting close enough.
I am able to do multiple passes without irritation but I run out of time in the morning.
I have now bought a Geneva Cutlery razor from ebay which I will have restored but what's the point if all I do is blunt them?
As for the hone yes it really requires a higher grit stone which is why I was thinking of getting a couple of Naniwa's.

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Originally Posted by charlie762

When the edge starts to get dull, I strop,then when that doesn't work,use the only stone I have (Belgian blue) I don't know why I got that one I haven't a clue what I'm doing with any of it.

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Usually the Belgian blue is used in conjunction with the yellow coticule. There is a really good article in the wiki that talks about the honing progression using a BBW and Coti. The BBW + slurry is usually followed up with coticule + water to polish the edge.


A simple honing method with DMT-E, Belgian Blue Whetstone and Coticule - Straight Razor Place Wiki

-Chief

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BHChieftain

Usually the Belgian blue is used in conjunction with the yellow coticule.

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+1.

You need a higher grit, a finishing stone.
If the razor goes from great shaver to dull in a couple of shaves, then there's a faulty razor. Either a ruined temper or a low quality steel.
Also, if you have a microscope, try looking at the edge and see if you can find any problem.

Charlie, IME it is surprising that a relatively dull razor will shave. What I am getting at is that if the razor you are starting out with is really shave ready at a professional Lynn Abrams level you should get many smooth and comfortable shaves out of it..... unless you dull it from mishandling or improper stropping.

I know this from my own experience in starting out with ebay razors that were close but not really sharp. Until I had a truly professionaly honed razor I had nothing to compare to.

If I were you and lived in Scotland I would look at sending a razor or two to Steve at The Invisible Edge in the UK. His SRP name is Blue Principle and he knows his way around a razor hone. You might shoot him a PM and see what his rates are for honing a member's razor.

This will give you something to shave with that is first rate and most of all something to compare your own honing with.

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Originally Posted by Leon

+1.

You need a higher grit, a finishing stone.
If the razor goes from great shaver to dull in a couple of shaves, then there's a faulty razor. Either a ruined temper or a low quality steel.
Also, if you have a microscope, try looking at the edge and see if you can find any problem.

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Even a cheap chinese 12k would work.

I will say though, the method outlined in the wiki above works very well.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JimmyHAD

If I were you and lived in Scotland I would look at sending a razor or two to Steve at The Invisible Edge in the UK. His SRP name is Blue Principle and he knows his way around a razor hone. You might shoot him a PM and see what his rates are for honing a member's razor.

This will give you something to shave with that is first rate and most of all something to compare your own honing with.

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I got my Flic razor from WWW.THEINVISIBLEEDGE.CO.UK so it's a bit embarrasing I also intend to send them all there £££'s permitting,when I get my ebay Genco's (one of which I am still waiting on by post) restored. I will probably get my hones there too.Hopefully I will someday learn not to ruin my razors.:o

It's possible that the edge isn't holding up as it's the wrong angle or the bevel isn't set correctly. Setting the bevel is most critical. All the other hones refine the beveled surface.

Take a deep breath. You'll get this since you have the determination to do so.

"If I told them once, I told them a hundred times, Spinal Tap first puppet show....." Oops, wrong quote; here's what I meant to say:

I've said it before, stropping is not only recommended to be the first blade prep action to master, it's flat out critical. I would argue since I experienced the same thing and I think most do, we often don't learn to strop correctly and dive too quickly into the whole honing thing.

If you had a few great shaves from a new razor and it quickly went dull on you (same thing happened to me way back when), there's almost no way that razor needs a hone. It needs to be stropped well as always, before and after each shave. (Ok, Ok, some will say you don't need to strop after and some will say they don't.) I ALWAYS strop after a shave.

Now that you've taken the razors to a Belgian Blue, I think you need to send the razor or razors off to a honemeister to be rehoned. The money you spend will be well worth the frustration you'll continually encounter trying to somehow get the edges back.

While they're away, spend the time reading everything you can on stropping in the SRP Wiki, etc. I'd do this first rather than just watch random Youtube videos since there is a lot of misinformation out there.

Why would the razors dull after only a few shaves? Corrosion to the edge is a distinct possibility; depending on your humidity level, where you store the razors, etc, corrosion can start within minutes or really even seconds. Cupping of the strop or you cupping the strop? It may look like you were stropping the entire edge, but maybe only the heel and the toe were making full contact leaving the center un-stropped and continually dullling from corrosion? Just some random theories.

Stick with it! You'll be glad you did.

Chris L

It really sounds like you have to much slack in the strop with the result that the edge has been rolled & dulled.
FWIW, when I strop the center deflects no more than 1/2 inch.

At present time I would suggest stropping for 100-200 roundtrip laps and see what happens. If it does not restore the edge then send it off to be honed again. Obtain some decent hones, either a coticule to compliment the blue you already have or Naniwas or Shapton Glass or Norton 4/8 etc and use an ebay special type razor for practice honing.

Just my $.02,:)

I didn't use anything on the blades to prevent rust but I will as soon as I get them back after they are sharpened.I will also keep them in another room.
As far as stropping goes,I am very careful with that and concentrate when doing so.I wouldn't be surprised if corrosion was a major factor.I look carfully to see that the strop is both flat and tight.I also pay attention to the way I turn the blade and make sure it is turned on its spine and don't strop too fast or too slow.
I have noticed that the edge on the Clauss has a thin bevel in the center compared to the toe and heel.
I just got two Genco's from ebay for £12 and £15:y and will have them restored and re-scaled.The edges on both are sound with no chips so I can't give up now anyhoo.
Regards,
Charlie

I have a genco they are nice shavers i notice some of my razor bevel get little water spots like slght rust i just run my edge over my coticle when removed strop dry well with hairdryer and i now use camlineoil on the blade and bevel seems to done the trick i also have mass polish which comes in handy.

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Originally Posted by randydance062449

It really sounds like you have to much slack in the strop with the result that the edge has been rolled & dulled.
FWIW, when I strop the center deflects no more than 1/2 inch.

At present time I would suggest stropping for 100-200 roundtrip laps and see what happens. If it does not restore the edge then send it off to be honed again. Obtain some decent hones, either a coticule to compliment the blue you already have or Naniwas or Shapton Glass or Norton 4/8 etc and use an ebay special type razor for practice honing.

Just my $.02,:)

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This sounds like it to me. Good luck and keep us informed.