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So the title pretty much sums it up. I would be grabbing a Naniwa stone because I am very pleased with my current ones. I was wondering though, would a 220 or a 400 be more useful? I currently need one because I have a razor that is so close to a full wedge (2/3's of it is hone wear) that I just wanna go the whole way, but it swarf's up the 1k so fast it takes for ever. Obviously for this I'd want the 220, but down the road, which would be more useful?
Thanks!
I've used a Norton 220 at JoeD's place; it was very helpful when honing up my 9/8 Greaves. I would recommend it without any hesitation... or as little hesitation as possible seeing as I only spend a few hours using it. Really all I can say is, for me and that razor, the Norton 220 was great.
Actually... if I got a DMT Coarse, would that work? Then it could do double duty lapping hones.
I personally would go with the shapton gs in 220, fast flat convenient what more could you want? The dmt's are waaaay to aggressive IMO
That has worked well for me. It ain't 220 but it is close enough for the amount of times that I've needed to go that coarse. Worth a try and then if you find you need to go for a coarser hone do so.Quote:
Originally Posted by khaos
DMT's remove metal like nobody's business too...Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
They sure do Ben. TBH the only time I have found the need to go as coarse as the 325 has been on a few Sheffield wedges and on a Hermes that had a bad frown and I had to restore the bevel after I breadknifed it. One of the fore mentioned wedges had a bad chip. Usually I've found the DMT 1200 plenty to do the initial bevel setting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slartibartfast
I've used Shapton pro, Norton, and King in the 120-220, because they wear down so quickly I went to diamond. At the time I did not think about how they also wear out but at least they hold their shape.
But a diasharp will not do very well at the shoulder. Atoma has a sharper corner, still not really an advantage but better than diasharp. (Haven't tried any other plates.) You will have to deal with the shoulder going to flat wedge, which is probably not the best idea, but I understand the urge.
Everything about stones is a compromise.
If you are looking at 3/8 thick nani- there probably is not a lot of future when grinding/shaping whole blade faces.
if you continually rotate 90 degrees every 5 or 10 strokes you can use the stone much more evenly. If you let it get too far out of whack, it will play hell trying to get scratches out on 1000>+
Another vote for the DMT. I hone a lot, and found that the coarse man-mades need very, very frequent lapping, hence the DMT. I follow the 325 DMT with a 1000 King then a 2000 Shapton glass - no honing marks left from the DMT at all.
Regards,
Neil.
One thing to mention about the DMT's though is that I have seen diagrams were supposedely diamonds can be so aggresive that they dig in so deep creating stress cracks. Similiar to wedge cracking stones or wood or whatever else you wish to crack in half or whatever. Just thinking about it maybe thats why some straights around here develop the wretched micro chipping. I too have fallen victim to time and used a dmt xxc on some wedges and have not had any problems but as of lately I feel sketchy about using the dmts at the lower grit levels. If you do decide to go that route I would use the course one.
Another vote for the DMT-C.
I have a 8"X3" combination DMT with holes. 325 on one side, 600 on the other. I use it for rebuilding edges after restoration, and the 325 side doubles as a lapping plate.
Never encountered any problems with it.
Bart
Well I guess that's settled then. Right after I started this thread I realised DOH! The DMT 325 is probably the best option- fast, coarse, and can get use as a lapping plate (which would get used far more often than a 220/400 grit stone)