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Maybe you could but with such a smooth finish how are you going to polish out the scratches left from your leather strop :pQuote:
Originally Posted by economica
I think the goal of polishing is taking a razor to its optimal sharpness, smoothness & durability. That may be a different thing from razor to razor but at that point it can be 9/10ths broke. A few too many laps, with hard, fast cutting stones can well lead to overhoning & crumbling .
When it comes to polishing the edge or not, I refer you to this unscientific test:
YouTube - Polished Edge Vs Toothed Edge
This really got my attention while collecting pocket knives and has transferred over into razors.
Yes the leather strop presents a whole new ball of wax/problems. I guess I'll just wait for the alien technology to bring the strops that don't leave scratches, until then I'll have to just make due.:beer2:
Cool video, is there anything that the people in this forum don't know, or don't have a nice video to demonstrate.... Thx.
Jimmy or whoever,Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
I know it is a very personal thing and everybody has their own way but I tried the Pyramid and found a lousy shaving edge. I have done the progression that Tim Zowanda has on his site (Think that is his) and found it quite sharp and worked well but have weepers and 6 shaves tops before touchups needed.
So>>>> How would you suggest I get a sharp yet comfortable shave. Still struggling to understand what the process is. Any clarification would be appreciated........
Barry
Let us not forget that synthetics also have some variation in the particle size.
I have never tried legions of laps on crox or newspaper. I like the edges from the stones I use. The reason I continue past 8000 is simple: to make it sharper.
I can see that it is getting sharper because every stone I use removes metal which is visible on the surface. coticule and J-nat. I don't have all that many options so there is no time wasted wondering or comparing
lol, Vassili didn't even really believe that difference in slicing ability existed before we convinced him to try it.Quote:
Originally Posted by economica
Hi Barry, well the pyramid method is proven. If you're not getting sharp edges with it I would think it is a matter of technique. I haven't tried edges from many other people but those from Lynn and cedarfurnitureman are some of the sharpest I've encountered. I know that the latter uses the pyramids exclusively and on Nortons followed by diamond paste on balsa. Not everyone who tries it likes it though and if you're getting satisfactory results with a progressive method that is fine too.Quote:
Originally Posted by bjanzen
Unless I'm honing on naturals I always use the pyramid following the bevel setting. It is the intermediate step. I go back to a progression for the polishing but the point is that it works. I am not an analytical sort of person. I pretty much follow numbers, counting laps, when I hone. I don't compare results under the microscope between grits as many do.
I'm not knocking that but just pointing out that it is not what I do. I check the edge before I start and when I think I'm done. If the shave is great that is what matters whatever method that you use to get there. You might try the pyramid again though as it is a good way to get a razor sharp IME.
Barry,
Unlike Jimmy, I use a microscope to check the edge as I move up in grit. I have also used the pyramids and they do work as Jimmy mentioned. If you have done the pyramid and find the shave not acceptable, simply go back and repeat the pyramid process again, it will make things better. If still not good enough go back and do the pyramid again. Repeat until you get where you want to be. On the other hand if you find that things don't improve after repeating a pyramid then the technique probably needs refinement?
I think the biggest advantage with the pyramids is it establishes a set of guidelines for when to move on to the next stone. I use a scope to inspect the edge to decide, it helps me to see it because my experience with the thumbpad tests is not so great. It feels sharp to me regardless of whether or not it is ready to move on to the next grit. However, with the scope I can see the microchips that still need to be removed and continue honing until they are gone. I think that eventually you and I will both gain the experience needed to feel and know when to move on, but until then the only way to get there is to practice.
I think if you don't have a scope or some way of inspecting the edge, the pyramids work best because it is at least some way of keeping track of where you are and when to move on, at least until you can learn to feel what "sharp" feels like at the different levels of grit. Hope this helps a little.
An addendum, I wanted to say that I have read in posts, that some people believe that the pyramids work better as technique for actual "scientific" reasons. I have not been able to actually find these explanations but I have no reason to think they are not true. I do know that the system works, but I don't think it is guaranteed that one set of pyramids will get you where want to be. Eventually, they will get you there, but you may need a couple of repetitions, sometimes one will work, other times 2 or 3.