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Thread: Warped Blade
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01-15-2010, 11:11 PM #1
Warped Blade
Let me start off with this is how I feel:
Why?
Because I just honed a goddamn quarter hollow with a warp. You know, the classic marker test where one side hones the middle and the other the toe and heel?
So because I recognised it I said well, I can hone around this, or try to hone it even.
So first I tried to hone around it. My skill combined with the degree of warp prohibited it (Nanis=3in wide, I REALLY needed a 1in hone). I just couldn't get into the concave bit. So I spent oh, 5 mins on the DMT C, checking every few laps on the Nani 1k til I could finally progress normally. And because it was a quarter hollow, this was quite a while, and quite a bit of hone wear (though I don't mind because I feel if it is THAT bad, taping it is an easy out and when I strop or touch it up or anything it'll be even harder to deal with. Better to try and fix the issue at the root.
Anyway. Sorry for the rant. And I now fully know the irritation of those damn warped old sheffield wedges.
Sorry for the rant. Just had to post, kind of like a milestone on my journey. I guess its time to get a narrow hone.
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01-15-2010, 11:27 PM #2
Karl Warped blade is the hardest blade to sharpen. Person has to have enough patient to get it done.
worse if your blade warped in couple places similar to figure 8. that is totally headache.
Most problem comes out You have to make so much attention to know how many circus you have done in warped location . if you mix up to much then blade has different sharpness parts . example where warped locations are sharp rest is dull so on.
Narrow hone will help a little but not much.
Try to learn how to use corner of your hones. GL.
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The Following User Says Thank You to hi_bud_gl For This Useful Post:
59caddy (01-16-2010)
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01-15-2010, 11:29 PM #3
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Thanked: 11One of my blades is warped also. I've spent around 10hrs working with it (learning experience). I found that on my 3x8 Norton stones the rolling X pattern worked OK. Still, since I know it's a warped blade, I don't want to shave with it and may eventually get rid of it.
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01-15-2010, 11:34 PM #4
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Thanked: 125Warped blades are nightmares, even moreso when they are wedges
Nortons seem to be the tool of choice for a warped edge...
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01-15-2010, 11:35 PM #5
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Thanked: 125
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01-16-2010, 02:15 AM #6
Sham- I know! This is not a figure 8 but maybe a half millimeter curve. I know that does not seem like much but it is "massive". You can't see it by looking but with the scratch pattern/bevel size it is obvious, but I checked the marker test to be sure. What I did was leveled it a bunch with my DMT C, and it is still slightly warped, but now I can hone using "regular" methods. Oh well.
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01-16-2010, 02:20 AM #7
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Thanked: 199I know exactly how you feel...only the one I had a lot of trouble with was a full wedge
I had to drop that sucker down to REALLY rough sandpaper, and it took a LONG time for me to FIX the warp, but I think it's finally where it should be, and not i get to put the scales back on it, and hone that baby up...I just hope I don't have to do it anymore...removing that much steel is a B!
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01-16-2010, 02:25 AM #8
I got another lot of blades in from the 'bay a couple days ago. One was a large Frederick 1/4 grind with barbers notch. Was looking forward to the polishing but just for curiosity's sake I made a few round on the DMT8C to see how slowly it would go.
Didn't know what was going on...kept telling myself 'surely it's not warped...it can't be warped'. But it sure is...and now I guess it's not as rare as I thought. Looks like it's going in the back of the box.
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01-16-2010, 02:27 AM #9
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01-16-2010, 02:52 AM #10
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The Following User Says Thank You to hi_bud_gl For This Useful Post:
khaos (01-16-2010)