Taping problems & rapid rusting

I am certainly no expert at razor honing, as I only have a touch-up Chinese water stone (very fine grit). I made it a 'project' to see if I could sharpen an edge that was completely rounded (would not cut anything) with this stone, knowing very well that it would take a long time.

I taped the spine with some cheap tape. This made the movement over the hone very nice and smooth, and I think it was easier to feel what was going on at the edge. However, removing the tape was a hassle, and I had to rub the blade with soapy water to get it off. The next day I noticed a dark stain on the high carbon blade. I thought this was the remains of the tape glue, so I tried some detergent (for washing dishes). It got better, but it would not come off completely. Then, while I was honing, I noticed to my horror that the spine and a few spots on the blade were rusting rapidly!:eek:

I quickly rinsed the blade, and I managed to polish off the rust, but the blade now has some darkish spots (visible upon close inspection). Has anyone ever experienced something like this? My first thought was that it must have been the detergent, but the tape also seems to be no good for the blade.

On a side note: I managed to get most of the rust spots off by dipping a q-tip in slurry from my stone, and rubbing like crazy:)

Do you put any kind of oil on your blade? Something, anything is better than nothing. I used to use Ballistol but have moved to CorrsionX. X is the best that I have use for razors.

Take Care,
Richard

Setting a bevel with a chinese 12k is a formidable challenge IMO. I have used alcohol or lighter fluid to remove tape residue with complete success. I always dry the razor and put a bit of rust preventative on it after using it or honing. Some metal polish such as Semichrome, Flitz or Maas will help with the spots and add a protective coating.

As for the honing, a Norton waterstone kit with the 220/1000, 4000,8000 and lapping stone or the Naniwa kit might be your best bet if you want to hone dull razors up to shave ready.

Yes, I oil the blade, so rusting has not been a problem previously. What I am talking about is very rapid rusting (less than 30 minutes for some large red spots to appear) during honing. Must have been the detergent I used to get rid of the tape residue.

Believe it or not, but most of the blade is now very sharp, but not the toe. I am trying to use the rolling pressure now to even things out. With this hone, it's going to take a while. Or perhaps I should just send it in to the guys at SRD.

What kind of tape would you guys recommend for protecting the razor while honing?

The cause may be hard to pin down. I have seen it happen, but most of the time it does not.

It may be the water, the way it is that day or always. Maybe there are other causes, but the easiest cure is a dash of baking soda, washing soda, windex

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...your-dmts.html

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Originally Posted by trondsi

The next day I noticed a dark stain on the high carbon blade. I thought this was the remains of the tape glue, so I tried some detergent (for washing dishes). It got better, but it would not come off completely. Then, while I was honing, I noticed to my horror that the spine and a few spots on the blade were rusting rapidly!:eek:

I quickly rinsed the blade, and I managed to polish off the rust, but the blade now has some darkish spots (visible upon close inspection). Has anyone ever experienced something like this? My first thought was that it must have been the detergent, but the tape also seems to be no good for the blade.

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I have had the same using painter's tape. Remove tape glue with white spirit.

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Originally Posted by trondsi

Yes, I oil the blade, so rusting has not been a problem previously. What I am talking about is very rapid rusting (less than 30 minutes for some large red spots to appear) during honing. Must have been the detergent I used to get rid of the tape residue.

Believe it or not, but most of the blade is now very sharp, but not the toe. I am trying to use the rolling pressure now to even things out. With this hone, it's going to take a while. Or perhaps I should just send it in to the guys at SRD.

What kind of tape would you guys recommend for protecting the razor while honing?

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3M electrical tape, yeah it really is better, way more wear resistant than the cheap china stuff..

BTW WD-40 and it's clones will take off residue in a heartbeat and keeps the blade from rusting... I have never had it harm scales either...
be very very careful with harsh chemicals around celluloid scales...

At the moment you can use maas to clean up your blade.
when you hone take off tape as soon as you done with honing. Then clean the blade with mineral oil or starter fluid.gl

Thanks folks!
I really like this razor for it's sheer simplicity. It's just a Dovo high carbon razor with black handle. Although I think it's tricky to keep the blade keen for long, I have had some of my best shaves with it (when it's good, it's really good). It still looks great, even after the last few days' trials and tribulations. The q-tip with slurry worked suprisingly well on most of the spots.

My main problem now is the dullness of the blade towards the point (about 1/4th of the length). The rest of the edge is very sharp. I may try some more rolling x-patterns on my fine-grit Chinese stone (my only hone at the moment) before sending it to a honing 'maestro'.

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Originally Posted by trondsi

Thanks folks!
I may try some more rolling x-patterns on my fine-grit Chinese stone (my only hone at the moment) before sending it to a honing 'maestro'.

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if you have plan to send honing why mess around?
you may damage it very well.
if you don't know what are you doing the best way just send it out.
then go buy bay razor's and practice on them. gl

I am not planning on sending it to a professional unless I can't make it work myself. I have actually learned quite a bit from this. My honing technique is much better. I also had a go on another razor, which only needed a touchup. It gives very comfortable shaves now.

Ok, so I tried my best at giving my poor razor (the one that got stained) a nice and finished edge. The point (toe) of the blade is still dull, but in all my trying to make it keen, I managed to make the rest of the blade scary sharp. This is the first time a razor was able to pop hairs on my arm in mid air straight from the hone (no stropping). Even though I knew that part of the blade is not ready, I gave it a try on my face after some decent stropping. I was expecting an uncomfortable shave, so I had a back-up razor ready to finish the job, just in case. To my surprise, the shave was not uncomfortable, although it got uneven in the places where I am used to use the tip of the blade (of course). Most of my face was shaved pretty nice and close without any irritation.

I still have to fix the tip of the blade, and I seem to be unable to do this with my super-fine hone. I have tried adjusting the pressure, rolling x-motions etc. I think the problem is that the stone is so slow-cutting that I don't get quick "feedback" when I am doing it right. I am now torn between sending the razor to Lynn, or buying a 1000k stone (or both).

trondsi,

I have seen this blackening problem.

It was from rubber bands I used to hold some razors closed in transit. Turned out it was suphur (sulfur) contained in the rubber reacting with iron in the steel to form black iron sulphide (sulfide).

This may/may not be the case with you, but some tapes do contain suphur (sulfur).

have fun !

best regards

Russ

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Originally Posted by PhatMan

trondsi,

I have seen this blackening problem.

It was from rubber bands I used to hold some razors closed in transit. Turned out it was suphur (sulfur) contained in the rubber reacting with iron in the steel to form black iron sulphide (sulfide).

This may/may not be the case with you, but some tapes do contain suphur (sulfur).

have fun !

best regards

Russ

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Many thanks for the information! I will stay away from this kind of tape in the future.