Journey to the center of the hone.

Alan's absolutely right. Overhoning or leaning on the blade while honing will not produce a shaving edge no matter how hard I try. The same goes for the strop.

X

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Originally Posted by AFDavis11

Thats a tough question based on the information provided. Can I assume you did
1/5
1/5 and so one, and not fifteen laps?.

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Alan, sorry, yes the the process was 1/5, 1/5 etc.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AFDavis11

I would back hone on 8K to remove all the burr created earlier. Then hone using an x pattern stroke using ever so light pressure for 3 strokes, then hone on ultra light pressure for about 10-15 strokes....but you need to use the x pattern soon and a light touch.

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I've been keeping the entire blade on the waterstone the entire length, with the heel leading slightly...does this not achieve the same result ast the x-pattern?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AFDavis11

For a beginner you can often have better results by caging the blade with you finger lightly on top of the blade to ensure it stays flat atleast for the first few iterations.

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I actually did do this during my first attempt, using a middle finger on the toe end with as little pressure as possible...probably still too much pressure being I'm new and haven't got the motion and muscles ingrained and trained.

Thanks for the help, I'll perform the steps you outlined and give feedback on results..

I started honing like you did, Tom with the whole blade on the hone, but I do find te x pattern works better. Superfly did an animated gif of it. You should be able to see it here.

X

No, as much as I'd like to to say that heal leading will accomplish the same I believe at this point you need to use an X pattern and an ultra light touch. Some might disagree but here is the key to my analysis, you've tried heal leading, now try an x pattern, or if you prefer continue trying the heal leading approach but plan on trying the x pattern, atleast if your still honing into April.

After doing some additional honing last night, the conservative pattern listed here, the overal appearance of the edge looks uniform with the exception of the 'toe' area. I suspect this looks rougher, due to the fact this area was afflicted with some light rust when this razor was initially sent to Lynn for honing about a year ago. My question regarding these 'notches' (that sounds more severe that these are when looking through 100x scope) is:
To get these out, can I hone on the 4k side starting with only the middle and toe on the hone, so I'm not honing over the rest of the blade? Will that screw of the edge starting a stroke from the middle of the blade?

In my experience, although you can just work a segment of the blade with varying degrees of sucess, keeping focused on honing the blade aas a whole helps the affected area without neglecting or diminishing the unaffected area.

X

Finally got the notches out and at 60x edge is looking pretty good. Completed another session of the 'conservative' pyramid, consentrating on continuous quality edge:hone contact, and propper X pattern. Stropped on leather 50 trips, and went to bed. Stopped on linen and then leather this morning, and whaddaya know? This thing actually shaves again. MUCH improved. I only wish I had a fine finishing barber hone or pasted strop, to make it really smooth....still needing multiple passes in some areas to get it all. Any way, any progress is good progress for a new honer. I appreciate everyone's help.