on an average, how long should we expect to be honing an e-bay special that has a clean edge,no chips,and dull as a butter knife. i know i can spend an hour or so but i am no pro.
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on an average, how long should we expect to be honing an e-bay special that has a clean edge,no chips,and dull as a butter knife. i know i can spend an hour or so but i am no pro.
Usually a half hour or forty minutes. Once the bevel is set nice and even it's pretty much clear sailing from there as long as I sharpen enough on the norton 4/8k before I polish the blade on my 12K and Escher.
This is Genearal question. There is no way someone can tell you time how long it will last. too many depending factors . they are.Quote:
Originally Posted by nessmuck
What stones(brands) do you use.
Some brands will cut a lot faster then others.
How many stones in your progression.
Increase number of stones(close grit to each other) will make job done a lot faster.
Example. if you have
1,4,5,6,8,10,12k
1,4,8,12k
in first combination job will done a lot faster ( that just example)
What condition edge is before you start to hone the blade. Are there any visible chips et, frown etc.
In normal edge if you use norton 1k for setting bevel and 4/8k for sharpening and lastly final touch with Japanese stone or Escher it will take 20 minutes at least. of course if you know what are you doing.
hope this helps
Gee, I think it really depends. Nice to get one that has no issues but then it becomes a matter of the steel, hardness, temper, grind. I would say I could normally do one in 15 or 20 minutes if I am lucky and average in 45 minutes if I am not. Referring to Solingen full hollows. Heavier grinds and/or Sheffields could take considerably longer. Just IME with too many ebay specials. :)
+1 with all of the above.
Grind, temper, steel, stone and edge speciffics such as chip, smile, frown all these will affect the honing time.
On average 40min or so for me, the longest time being spent on the bevel setter.
You should expect it to take as long as it takes to get it right :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by richmondesi
There is the correct answer give that man a cigar LOL
I can answer this part of it for you, as an average, ONCE the bevel is SET... 15 minutes...
I say this grinning from ear to ear as the bevel I set on this ******* Greaves Wedge for the last 2 nights took 4 1/2 hours of work, including the dremel to fix the heel issue and re-buffing it to take off the ugly as sin bevel I had to do to even up all the old stuff :)..... But after it passed the TNT and then popped arm hair at 1k, I was done 15 minutes later...
+1 to Glen and Pauls posts! It takes as long as it takes.
The bevel setting is the real time consuming part, but once its set its usually about 30-35 minutes for me, so I clearly have a way to go before I'm up to Glens level..! :)
My W&B wedge took about an hour to set the bevel and my other W&B had a small chip so that took a bit of time on the 325 DMT to get right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubear
HA !!!! Ya think I am fast???? you should watch Lynn when he is not teaching people, like in the Vids... That man really is a freaking Machine...
I was thinking about Lynn and his honing. Guys get the same hones and they wonder why they can't duplicate Lynn's results. It would be like me buying a set of golf clubs and wondering why I can't play like Tiger Woods. :rofl2:Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyHAD
NO COMMENT!!!!:rofl2::rofl2:
+1 on everything that has been said here.
Setting the bevel correctly is the one that takes most time. The rest comes quicker. Sometimes this all goes relatively fast, sometimes it takes a long time. Impossible to give any exact numbers here, not even average.
One thing, in general, is true. Sheffield blades take longer time than those from Solingen or Sweden.
I remember asking a similar question when I started honing. It felt like I was spending forever on blades while other people were flying through them.
When I hone, that is all I have planned for the evening. If I get through a blade, then I usually stop. Sometimes its quick, sometimes I don't finish a blade in an evening. Sometimes I stop due to frustration and try again later. Sometimes I get it right on the first try, sometimes there is some tuning that needs to be done.
Sometimes I take a break from honing to let my arm hair re-grow.
And in this context you mean cutting the hairs with no blade contact with the skin?Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
I would suggest you to expect it to not take only some hours but
several attempts!
By that I mean you may be getting through your progression in 1-3hours
depending on your level of skill and quickness of equippment
but that you may not succeed at first attempt in creating a perfect shaving edge.
Take your time in restoring (or resharpening) blades
and expect some trial and error
I keep seeing this question, and I am realizing that like every other test, this one has gone much farther, and developed over the years into more than what it was originally designed for...Quote:
Originally Posted by Basset
The test was a go / no go test when it started, for a completed bevel set, that was it and it is still 99% accurate if used that way...
As a qualitative test, it also works by testing the way the blade cuts hair as you progress through the grits/stages, of honing, but once you do that it, loses the accuracy of the test, and it becomes more like a HHT and more subjective to the individual type of hair...
I can use it to gauge the "sharpness" as I progress, but I can't say it will work the same for you... See the slight difference there???
If the edge cuts hair at skin level or above, along the entire edge then the "bevel" is set, that part is pretty darn accurate...
Every other type of testing you do with it has to be developed for each individual...
I agree with the above comments. The most time will be spent on correcting edge issues such as frowns, nicks and chips. Then setting the bevel up to a 1K-4K level. The least time is spent on finishing... 6K-8K-12K.
Assuming no major edge work has to be done then about 1 hour for me simply because I use a very slow honing stroke and test frequently.
I also spend an inordinate amount of time refreshing my hones.
Just my $.02,:)
I hadn't seen the Q before. I was kind of looking for a yes or no, but the extra explanation's helpful.Quote:
Originally Posted by gssixgun
My practice, based upon prior posts and vids had been to move off 1K when I can shave arm hairs with blade-skin contact. (This is after passing TNT, marker test, examining evenness of bevel, etc.
But the phrase, "pop hairs" has been used to refer to no skin contact. So I thought maybe you were advocating remaining on 1k beyond skin contact shaving to no-skin contact hair popping. That would be a change from what I'd read in the past in so many posts.
I asked because we hear the experts all the time warn against overhoning, so I am reluctant to stay on 1k longer than is necessary. So if you were saying "stay on 1k until the hairs pop without skin contact," I wanted to know that. Sounds like you weren't.
Not saying I'm an expert but I don't stay on a 1k until it will 'pop hairs'. Once I get the TNT I continue a bit and then try shaving a bit of hair on the skin or if I want to conserve hair the TPT. I don't fool with popping hair until the sharpening phase. I've read of people who perform HHT off of the 1k but I've never had any luck with that and don't even bother with it anymore. I do use that after I'm done honing but I've found HHT is not a prerequisite for a close and smooth shave. YMMV. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Basset
I agree with all the pros here... but on the other hand, since I'm in a honing learning curve, I really enjoy every single minute I spend restoring my blades (in some cases they have been more like a challenge), and of course the honing phase is just the final stage on getting my creations ready to face the next challenge: my whiskers!!! Thanks for the great advices guys
Overhoning is way less of a problem then underhoning is, and honestly even if you overhone an edge at 1k it takes about 3 backhoning strokes to fix it...Quote:
Originally Posted by Basset
But that being said you are right if the edge "CUTS" the hair the bevel is set...
Keep in mind though NONE of these tests are 100% accurate every single one of them is open to interpetatioon...
If you read what Jimmy just posted about the HHT being used by some people at lower grit and that he never found much use for it??? I would not have been that nice, I would have said that a 1k HHT was about laughable because of the false positives :) Same with using the AHT (arm hair test) by popping hairs above skin level as a test, it has to be calibrated to your hair, or it drops back into the Parlor Trick aspect of testing...
We have had this discussion way to many times about the HHT, it has to be calibrated to your hair to be of any use as a test, and it is only usable to each person...
Once you try and use the AHT as a sharpness test the same rules apply, BUT as a bevel test it is pretty accurate...
Excellent posts, guys. I laugh a little to myself every time I read posts about HHT at 1k (or similar). However, I have had excellent results relying on the arm hair test for determining when the bevel is set.
Today in just about 1 hour, I lapped my Noton 1k from previous use, lapped my Naniwa 5k and 8k to prep them for honing, and took 8 razors that had previously come off the 1k through the Naniwa 5k, Naniwa 8k, and Asagi.
I am basing the time on my timestamps from chat, which show when I walked away from my computer and when I returned:
(5:44:38 PM) holli4:
(6:51:51 PM) holli4: