So, How Do I Begin?

I've bought a few razors over the past two or three years that are extremely dull. I bought them with the intention of restoring them whenever I get around to learning to restore. Now that I'm ready to give it a whirl, I'm not sure how to proceed. I have three hones, 1200, 4000 and 8000. My plan (which is kind of a shot in the dark) is to do a pyramid with the 1200 and 4000, then move to another pyramid of 4000 and 8000. And so, I ask the honemeisters among us, does this sound like a reasonable progression? If not, what would you suggest?

Personally, I don't pyramid, so I cannot comment on that. If I were in your place, I'd stay on the 1200 till I had the bevel set (razor should pop arm hairs), then move up to the 4k; IMO there is no sense in moving up to the 4k till you set your bevel (unless you'd like to go slow...). On the 4k, the tests for when to move up aren't quite as clear, because you need to learn what is the best edge you can get off the 4k. I happen to like circles and X's, so I'd say do about 50 circles per side, then 10 X strokes, then cut some arm hairs and try to remember how the edge cuts. Then do the same 50 circles and 10 X's and see how it cuts again. If there is an improvement, repeat the 50/10 pattern. Once there is no more improvement, move up to the 8k. There, try 10 X's and test on arm hair. Again, try to remember how it cuts. Do 10 more X's and, if it cuts better, do 10 more. Once there is no more improvement, you're done. Do your normal stropping routine and you should get a nice, comfortable shave.

This is assuming you have already lapped your hones. Use just enough pressure to keep the razor flat on your hone.

As Dylan said the foundation is the bevel and that is done with your 1200. The 4/8 pyramid is said to be ideal for beginners because of formulaic nature of the process. It was very good for me when I was learning and I still use it a lot at present. Then again, I'm still learning.

You should take a look in the Wiki in the 'honing a razor' section. You'll find Lynn's pyramid method and also take a look at the tests. Mainly the thumbnail test, TNT, and the thumbpad test, TPT. Arm hair tests may or may not be listed .... I don't remember. If your razor is not passing the hanging hair test, HHT, don't despair. Not a prerequisite for a shave ready razor. Use a known sharp blade to learn the feel of the TPT. If you have a straight razor that is known to be shave ready that is fine or a new DE blade is also good.

Once you pass the TNT don't use it on that razor again but go to the TPT and/or arm hair. If you do a lot of honing it pays to learn the TPT. Hair on the arms becomes scarce. :)

yeah no need for a pyramid if you don't even have a sharp edge.
keep on 1200 until your razor feels like a very sharp knife, it should shave arm hair with ease (make sure to finish with 10 light x-strokes) and then move on to the higher grits.
it may be helpful to look with magnification on the edge since you probably can't judge with just the reflection of a strong light, or by touch.

Get yourself a little 30x loupe as well, as I've found my edges have really improved by using one. They cost abot £3 or something, but they're very useful!

Getting the bevel set is the most important part, as others have said. If you move off the 1200 before its set all you're doing is polishing a dull edge. My personal tests for the 1k are the TNT (checking for even drag on the nail) and shaving arm hair at skin level.

Once I've set the bevel and passed those tests, I then start using the loupe and I'm basically looking to see that the satiny/scratchy look of the 1k bevel has been totally and evenly replaced by the more polished bevel from the higher grit stone.

I still do the arm hair test though, just to make sure I havent inadvertantly scuffed the edge up on the hone, but as long as it will shave arm hair progressively better and looks good through the loupe I keep moving up the stones. By the time I get to 8k the bevel looks basically mirror finished and I can shave arm hairs floating 1mm above the skin.

I dont do circles once I move up to the 8k stone. I used to, but I found that I get better edges by not doing them (thanks Dylan!).

Then I just do 10-15 strokes on the 12k stone, then move on to my finisher, then strop as usual and test shave.

When I started I found plenty of advice for counting. And ways to test the edge. That advice is still floating around here somewhere.


It didnt really suit my mental situation. I thought a lot about "time on the hone", but that does not account for speed; like counting does not account for length.

Eventually I started to think about: "it's all about the shave" somebody says that;) Anytime i wanted to know where my edge was I could slather a cheek and shave a little. Adding hone strokes, the face informs more than any test and help tune the other tests so that later you will just know by their result.

If the razor is very dull you may want to do some work on a sub-1000 grit hone (I use my norton 220) . It will save you some time , but don't over-do it , and keep the pressure very light .