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I've been posting this guys vid all over the place, but those were the forums where it was relevant. In this one he shows honing on the 3" Norton stone.
http://www.current.tv/studio/media/1036918
Btw. the guy has seen Lynn's video, so he could even be a member. If these vids have been here before, please accept my apologies. I just wanted to contribute :)
He's a member here and posted those about 56 months back. Good to watch aren't they?
X
Certainly. Which gives me an idea. If people from this forum got together and developed a comprehensive instructional vid on antiques, new razors, restoration, honing, stropping and shaving, published a written manual along with it and made'em freeware, it would do a lot to further spread the trend.
They really were good videos. I don't hone mine the same way he does, but the face preparation part was outstanding.
Due to the size of my hone (2") I'm forced to use the X-pattern. If we did a comprehensive vid, a how-to on that would also be useful to the general public.
I cant get the video to open. all I get is a red "X" :(
Which browser are you using?
I used Opera and I'm pretty sure it will open on IE/NS/FF. Check your browser security settings and your firewall settings. Actually, If I were a betting man, I'd bet a pint of Smithwicks that it will play once you bypass the firewall.
I think it's important to note the care that is given in maintaining a flat and unloaded stone. It's better to lap the stone on a flat surface (like glass) rather than with the palm of your hand.
If you watch the shaving video, you will see that Brian touches up using a water-only pass. I have found this to be an excellent technique and use it when I am striving for a glass smooth shave.
I'll often use a lapped barber's hone (smaller and easier to lap), with 1500 grit SiC wet or dry paper to lap my Norton. The hone is as long as the Norton is wide, and I'll rub it in a circular motion along the stone. So far, this technique has worked very well for me (and I've sharpened about 40 razors on it) on the Norton, and it has remained very flat and unloaded. My method seems to be a little easier than trying to find a piece of glass large enough and flat enough to lap with.
Went to the store, dragged home 20x20 inches, 1/3inch thick glass plate, and there it is, gathering dust on the balcony. Now I lap the Norton with Pumice stone...
Nenad
I try to take Nenad's warnings not to go apesh*t on the equipment to heart :D
Brian has really tried to contribute to this hobby of ours and I thank him for his efforts.
One of the things he does that I feel is in error is to lap the hone with some sandpaper and his fingers. The purpose of lapping is to "flatten" the stone. For that you need a flat surface. Using a pumice stone or old razor hone that is as wide as the Norton is one of the correct metrhods. But using your fingers is not. That is only good for removing built up "swarf".
Brian also is using a straight across "push" stroke. Many of us disagree with that and instead use either an X pattern or have the toe of the blade angled back (heel leading). Both the X pattern and the heel leading stroke create a scratch pattern (striations) that is angled and gives a better shave.
I also take strong issue with putting your fingers on the blade. This results in an uneven wear on the bevel/blade. Your best bet is to learn to use one hand with the fingers on the shank(as a fulcrum) and use your other fingers as a lever on the scales.
Just had to comment,:)
And it's appreciated... The video is just a starting point for a discussion on the topic, especially since he does it differently than what is the general concensus here.
Edit: His way of checking for sharpness is also unorthodox.
Now that is interesting . . . your pulling up with the fingers on the scale? Slightly ofcourse.Quote:
Originally Posted by randydance062449
I'd like to hear more about how users are gripping the blade while honing. I'm just beginning, and the blade is prone to rock and lift all over the place. I tried keeping a finger on the blade as in Brian's video, and was at least able to repair the unevenness that my clumsiness had wrought on my only razor.
For anybody: how does your grip feel while you hone? Are you lifting slightly on the scales using your shank as a fulcrum, to keep pressure on the blade? How far up the shank onto the blade are your fingers? Do you have any other tips on grip?
I grip the shank as close to the blade as possible with my thumb on the edge side of the shank and forefinger contacting the spine side of the shank. This requires a slight change from left to right as from right to left strokes on the hone, but the difference is ONLY on the thumb placement and forefinger angle. This way I get more identical results on both sides of the blade. Otherwise I keep my wrist and overall hand position EXACTLY the same in both directions for the same reason. I also stretch my other fingers as far as comfortably possible down the under side of the scales for maximum control and keep the pad or heel of my palm in contact with the upper side of the scales.
X
P.S. Are you a waiter by any chance? Having too much to handle in a restaurant is often refered to as being "in the weeds"
Don't worry, the blade will get steady over time. The best way to start honning right is to get some crappy razor and practice the motion. The blade is gripped with normal thumb-index finger gripping motion, like you are handing cash to someone... At the end of the stroke, you flip over the spine. After some time honning, now I just lift the blade over the hone, but still flip with edge-up (over the spine) motion...Quote:
Originally Posted by deepweeds
have fun,
Nenad
Are you a waiter by any chance? Having too much to handle in a restaurant is often refered to as being "in the weeds"
Thanks, X; Thanks, Nenad. I'll try to "keep it light" while I get used to the feel.
X: I've been a waiter a number of times, and yes, that's where I learned the expression that I use for a handle. Even though I'm in other work now, I'm still usually "in the weeds." :^)