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  1. #1
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    Default New Dovo 6/8 best quality "PROFESIONALLY SHARPENED"

    Okay I have been straight shaving for a week now first shave went all out and did two full passes WTG and ATG and been doing the same everyday. Blade was brand new with professionally honed blade.

    I guess one could chaulk it up to experience or lack their of, but it felt as though it was pulling alot almost like a regular disposable that was one shave away from needing to be replaced. I tried without stroping and with stroping not much of a difference. I had ordered a 10,000 naniwa superstone at the same time I purchased the razor incase I messed up the edge on the strope as well as a cotton strope with .5 CRox I figured i could not make it worse and gave it a few laps on the super stone 10,000. It helped, but was not feeling like I thought it should.

    Now I had been researching for a while on this to see if I couldn't make the blade shave better, so I went ahead and ordered. The Norton starter set 200/1000 4000/8000.

    Taped the spine with one layer of electrical tape ran it on the 1,000 to start from "scratch" this is after I rounded the edges of the stones and flattened them with the norton flattening stone.

    I ran it on the 1,000 in the x pattern until it was being "sucked" into the stone and watch the wall of water infront of the blade as I progressed and you could see that the new bevel completely got rid of the old bevel. So after the 1,000 I ran a few laps on the 4,000 then proceeded to follow the pyramid on the 4,000/8,000 as described by Lyn in the WIKI. Then proceeded to run about 12 laps on the 10,000 super stone, and 10 laps on my Crox strope. All of this was done with just the weight of the blade.

    I checked the Edge as I progressed with the TPT not so much on the finger nail test as just can't stand the feeling on the finger nail. Well after all the sharpening and attempting the HHt as I progressed. I am not able to pass the HHT to save my life. I just said and decided to run it on the leather strope shave. Must say it was better then the original edge it came with that was professionally honed.

    So I think it could still be better and I am some what confused on what I am doing wrong. I am having an issue figuring out the earliest that I should be able to pass the HHT. Also the toe end of the blade is rounded and looking at the original grinding/honing the toe was sharpened on the rounded edge some what, and upon searching the wiki do i need to do a "rolling X pattern" modified to lift the heel at the end of the stroke to sharpen the toe up some what as it is in a section that is not laying flat on the stone.
    Last edited by mjohns66; 07-25-2010 at 04:49 PM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member wdwrx's Avatar
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    Sounds like you well on your way. Good job!
    As to the HHT, I'm learning that it takes some time to "calibrate" your hair to your edges. Even then, it's not always a perfectly reliable test. Don't sweat it too much; as long as you are getting comfortable shaves now (already), rest assured that they will only get better!

    Cheers!

  3. #3
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    I only use the HHT after stropping. "How" the blade cuts at that point is a good indicator of what's going on sharpness wise but the shave test is "THE" test. HHT & cutting arm hair above skin level tells you nothing about the comfort of the edge
    I sometimes try to slowly cut individual arm or leg hairs toward the end of the honing process at near skin level & try to feel for tugging pre the cut. A properly sharp & smooth razor may well knock the hair over before cutting it but if it then slices thru & the hair just falls over somewhere near the blade I know I'm close to ready.

    Also if you're using tape change it often to make sure you are honing the edge & not just the bevel.
    Last edited by onimaru55; 07-25-2010 at 05:42 AM.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by onimaru55 View Post
    I only use the HHT after stropping. "How" the blade cuts at that point is a good indicator of what's going on sharpness wise but the shave test is "THE" test. HHT & cutting arm hair above skin level tells you nothing about the comfort of the edge
    I sometimes try to slowly cut individual arm or leg hairs toward the end of the honing process at near skin level & try to feel for tugging pre the cut. A properly sharp & smooth razor may well knock the hair over before cutting it but if it then slices thru & the hair just falls over somewhere near the blade I know I'm close to ready.

    Also if you're using tape change it often to make sure you are honing the edge & not just the bevel.
    Okay I am a bit confused on this if I am correct I use the tape on the spine when setting bevel and during the rest of the sharpening process correct?

  5. #5
    Senior Member wdwrx's Avatar
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    It's generally accepted that what you start with is what you finish with.... sorta If you start with tape, you should finish with tape, but keep in mind that the tape wears some, especially on the coarser stones, and should be replaced if it shows signs of wear. Tape can also be used to create secondary or "compound" bevels. OTOH, some guys don't use it at all.

    I started out using it, and as I learned not to butcher the razor with the stones, I quit using it. I found it to be a bit of a PITA.

    You'll find tons and ton of threads discussing all aspects and philosophies regarding the use of tape, a quick search through the threads will turn up hours worth of reading material.

    Have fun,

    **edit: short answer: yes**
    Last edited by wdwrx; 07-25-2010 at 01:43 PM.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Lesslemming's Avatar
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    just for the record, what exactly is "professionally honed"?
    Did you send it to a honemeister from our community,
    or did someone like "dovo" or a "tool shop" do it?

    For what you did, I am glad it worked out good for ya.
    You are obviously on your way.
    I donīt think you are doing much wrong at the moment,
    I guess you just need more practice.
    What I would do is buy a halfway decent razor from ebay,
    or the classifield (maybe you specifically ask for a razor that is in acceptable condition i.e. not warped, for honing practice) and practice on this razor until you get noticably better results and redo your dovo.

    Btw. I personaly think you did a great job choosing a finishing stone.
    The Naniwa Super 10.000 is very underrated, most germans and I love it for itīs consistant ability to polish and sharpen.
    Just a hint of Chromox afterwards and you can achieve shaves as good as it gets.
    Donīt invest into further equippment at this time.

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  8. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lesslemming View Post
    just for the record, what exactly is "professionally honed"?
    Did you send it to a honemeister from our community,
    or did someone like "dovo" or a "tool shop" do it?

    For what you did, I am glad it worked out good for ya.
    You are obviously on your way.
    I donīt think you are doing much wrong at the moment,
    I guess you just need more practice.
    What I would do is buy a halfway decent razor from ebay,
    or the classifield (maybe you specifically ask for a razor that is in acceptable condition i.e. not warped, for honing practice) and practice on this razor until you get noticably better results and redo your dovo.

    Btw. I personaly think you did a great job choosing a finishing stone.
    The Naniwa Super 10.000 is very underrated, most germans and I love it for itīs consistant ability to polish and sharpen.
    Just a hint of Chromox afterwards and you can achieve shaves as good as it gets.
    Donīt invest into further equippment at this time.

    The only reason I even mentioned the fact that it was profesionally sharpened was the fact that every body says send it out and see what a good blade should feel like and I wanted to get my own set of stones so I could be some what "self sustaining" with my own sharpening instead of having to send out my razor and wait to get it back.
    -

    I am still looking for advice regarding the heel and toe of the razor as right now i just used a "regular" x patter it seems like i would need to "rock" the blade as i do the x pattern to sharpen the heel and toe as they are rounded.
    Last edited by mjohns66; 07-25-2010 at 04:50 PM.

  9. #8
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    When I lap my finishing stone and it is flat, I take it to 600 grit wet or dry then some worn down 600 grit to finish the stone up.
    That makes it nice and smooth.
    After honing my razor I like to let the finishing stone dry, and then make another 7 or 10 passes on it with progressivly lighter pressure.

    As far as the hanging hair test. I have 2 cats one has really fine hair the other has courser hair. It is pretty easy to cut the course hair. The fine hair is another story it took a long time to get my honing skills to the point I could cut that hair.

    Keep working on being as consistant as you can with each pass on the hone and before you know it your edge will just keep getting better. Just takes time.


    Silver2

  10. #9
    Comfortably Numb Del1r1um's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjohns66 View Post
    The only reason I even mentioned the fact that it was profesionally sharpened was the fact that every body says send it out and see what a good blade should feel like and I wanted to get my own set of stones so I could be some what "self sustaining" with my own sharpening instead of having to send out my razor and wait to get it back.
    -

    I am still looking for advice regarding the heel and toe of the razor as right now i just used a "regular" x patter it seems like i would need to "rock" the blade as i do the x pattern to sharpen the heel and toe as they are rounded.
    Please don't take any offense, I really mean none by my comments/questions, but something doesn't seem right here to me.

    The story as I understand it is that you with virtually no experience with razors or honing, were able to hone a razor (starting back at the bevel setting level) to a better shaving edge than a pro honemeister with thousands of razors worth of troubleshooting, edge evaluation, and finishing. It isn't adding up for me completely.

    I can understand wanting to be self sustaining and having a good kit, I am kind of the same way. One thing though is that if you had a honemeister get your razor shave ready, the lack of sharpness you felt was most likely a technique thing. If it were me, I'd contact them and see if they'd take another look at it. Straight off of their bench the razor should be at the peak of sharpness.

    A new dovo that has been previously honed by a pro shouldn't require any special strokes other than the x-stroke.. the toe and heel are round, but the shaving edge should be straight. I hope that you aren't trying to get the round point and shoulder/stabilizer area sharp.


    I really hope that you continue to have good experiences. Please understand that we all love to help, and I just had some lingering thoughts that I wanted to ask in order to help others and give perspective.

    All the best

    Dave

  11. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Del1r1um View Post
    Please don't take any offense, I really mean none by my comments/questions, but something doesn't seem right here to me.

    The story as I understand it is that you with virtually no experience with razors or honing, were able to hone a razor (starting back at the bevel setting level) to a better shaving edge than a pro honemeister with thousands of razors worth of troubleshooting, edge evaluation, and finishing. It isn't adding up for me completely.

    I can understand wanting to be self sustaining and having a good kit, I am kind of the same way. One thing though is that if you had a honemeister get your razor shave ready, the lack of sharpness you felt was most likely a technique thing. If it were me, I'd contact them and see if they'd take another look at it. Straight off of their bench the razor should be at the peak of sharpness.

    A new dovo that has been previously honed by a pro shouldn't require any special strokes other than the x-stroke.. the toe and heel are round, but the shaving edge should be straight. I hope that you aren't trying to get the round point and shoulder/stabilizer area sharp.


    I really hope that you continue to have good experiences. Please understand that we all love to help, and I just had some lingering thoughts that I wanted to ask in order to help others and give perspective.

    All the best

    Dave

    Let me say first off that I am not trying to bash any honemeister as I have not been around long, but long enough that i realize that it takes a long time to perfect the honing skill. I am not saying that I have perfected my honing skills or shaving skills overnight. I know that I am just starting out an know I would say next to nothing.

    I am thinking what may have happened is that the blade may have not been honed except the factory hone as it was shipped out fairly quickly and one would think that it would take a minute to get it honed as their are not alot of them around and I am sure that my blade was not the only one that was purchased that day.


    So putting the honing aside if it was done by a pro or not, I am seeking advice on trying to perfect my blade and my skills with the tools I have at my disposal.

    As far as looking at the toe of the blade it had grinding marks on the toe of it from when i received it. Now performing the normal x patter does not sharpen it at this specific area.

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