...the metal when honing?

edited: i'm reading the 1961 pdf about honing now.

Randy Tuttle explained to me that:

"you need an even coarser grit to restore the edge to an old razor. The reason is that the steel has oxidised and become weak."

okay, so i know i'm dealing with stuff on the molecular level, and that there must be something like alinging of molecules happening, and i'm trying to really use my imagination, and i want to go get a microscope good enough to actually see this process so that i understand what i'm about to embark on.

based on randy's kind response to me, i understand that hard steel is something to be desired. and i know it needs to be kept in alignment.

how does honing keep steel strong? is it the rubbing off of tiny steel bits? does the hone stretch out the metal because it thins it out and the very edge wears to bits?

thanks for your consideration,
lickthefrog

He is, I believe, only describing the oxidized edge which is coverered with oxidized metal. The hone simply removes the oxidized metal until you get down to the non-oxidized metal.

Frog, I think you may be thinking too hard on this one. Picture an oxidized edge as akin to a common sponge, albeit on a very small scale. Tiny pits have been eaten into, and sometimes through, the steel at the very edge, leaving microscopic holes. As you hone it, jagged edges are left on the very edge. THese are very uncomfortable when shaving and will irritate your face. You need to hone until all of this oxidized steel is gone in order to have a smooth, uniform edge.

Jeff

AFdavis and threeputt, gave the right answer. That statement was about removing the oxidized (corroded) steel and nothing more. I think it would be a mistake to read more into it than that.

Alan is right. Think of oxidised as rust. It has to be removed.

For a microscope you do not need anything fancy. Some people use a Radio Shack 60X-100X. I use a Micronta 30X. Theis guy has some for sale, it has better resolution than the Radio Shack model.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Pocket-Microscope...QQcmdZViewItem

The 30X tells me everything that I need to know.
1. It shows if there are any nicks in the edge and if the edge is even.

2. It tells me if there is a wire edge (overhoned). That appears as a brown/copper/rust color on the very edge in places.

3. It shows me if the bevel is complete. If the bevel extends all the way to the edge then it will appear as one color. If you see two colors on the bevel then you have two different angles on the bevel. In additon it will appear as a different "finish".

A microscope is not very useful for anything else.

Hope this helps,

i think i get it. that's why most honing is done without any pressure.

so oxidization happens over time, but probably not to well-maintained razors. and that's why i should keep them dry, not even storing them in the bathroom (i read that a year ago, back when i got my shavette).

cool, thanks guys,
lickthefrog

I use 1-2 lbs of pressure only when removing an old, oxidised edge or correcting a bevel on a new razor. This is only done on the Norton 4000 and only as long as is necessary. Once the new bevel is established the amount of pressure used is only that which is necessary to keep the razor flat on the hone.

Hope this helps,