Lyn you know as well as i do that the best edges come off the bench grinder followed by a good stropping on 80 grit sandpaper. When you use your grinder remember that if there are no sparks flying your doing it wrong. lol
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Lyn you know as well as i do that the best edges come off the bench grinder followed by a good stropping on 80 grit sandpaper. When you use your grinder remember that if there are no sparks flying your doing it wrong. lol
sure thing i enjoy helping you guys learn the new meathod of sharpening. By the way there is one fraise that i cant belive was aired on cable tv(ward you were a lil hard on the beaver last night) lol
Tape has two common purposes.
The most common is to protect the spine when
more aggressive honing is done to reshape or
restore a blade. Tape makes a lot of sense
when using a hone coarser than 1K grit.
The second is to adjust (increase) the angle of the
finished edge. In some cases this adjustment is
designed to produce a micro bevel. Increasing the angle
can also result in a slightly less fragile edge or
just present a much smaller amount of steel to a
fine but slow finishing hone.
With a previously well set bevel and finer hones like the
4K/8K Norton combo and finer there is little or no reason
for tape (IMO).
I had to breadknife out a nick in a smiling wedge, and really wish I'd used tape when resetting the bevel. Ended up with really uneven wear on the spine, and in the end put on two layers just to get ANYTHING to happen.
Other than that, I don't tape. Eventually I'll try to reset that wedge without tape, but I wanted to shave with it again.