problem on the 1k

I'm having problems on my Norton 1K. I'm using light pressure, the water on the stone moves evenly in front of the blade, so it looks like I'm getting even coverage, but the blade won't cut any hair. I've done sets of 10-20 strokes and then tested, I've even done sets of 50 strokes and tested, but its not cutting. I've tried slightly more pressure, slightly less pressure. forward and back, x-pattern, one hand only, one hand on each side of the blade, everything. It just won't cut any hair. From all of the threads and videos I've seen, its supposed to cut at lease some hair before moving from the 1k to the next stone.

It sounds like a simple case of you haven't got the bevel set yet. What does it feel like on a TNT or TPT? If you look at light reflecting off the bevel, does the bevel run all the way to the edge on both sides? (If no, bevel is not set.) If yes, if you look straight down at the edge, do you see light reflecting off the edge? (If yes, bevel is not set.)

+1 I'm with Holli. Try the TNT, if you put the edge of the razor gently against your wet thumbnail and pull ever so slightly, it should dig in a little and "stick". If you're "sliding" along the edge without any sticking, its back to the 1K.

Sounds like a common theme today :D
http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...g-session.html

thanks guys.

When I lightly run the blade across my thumb nail, it drags a little and I can see a fine line on my nail. The thumb pad is another story, it will not feel like its digging in, but if my thumb pad is dry it will visibly look like its cutting skin.
Should I call it good and move up to the 4K, or keep going on the 1K?

Personally I don't even try any haircutting after the 1K. I just go by how the bevel looks. if it looks good I move on to the 4 and that's when I start worrying about hair cutting.

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Originally Posted by salazch

I'm having problems on my Norton 1K. I'm using light pressure, the water on the stone moves evenly in front of the blade,

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Here is your problem, when the bevel is set and ready to move up a grit the blades sharpened edge will cut under the water and the water will run up the edge towards the spine. Until you get here you are nowhere.

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Originally Posted by salazch

thanks guys.

When I lightly run the blade across my thumb nail, it drags a little and I can see a fine line on my nail. The thumb pad is another story, it will not feel like its digging in, but if my thumb pad is dry it will visibly look like its cutting skin.
Should I call it good and move up to the 4K, or keep going on the 1K?

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Drags a little means you are not done on the 1k, especially if it doesn't bite on a TPT.

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Originally Posted by nun2sharp

Here is your problem, when the bevel is set and ready to move up a grit the blades sharpened edge will cut under the water and the water will run up the edge towards the spine. Until you get here you are nowhere.

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Makes sense. How far up the spine should the water run?

Here is another problem. Im using even pressure, but sometimes the toe or heel of the blade wont look al clean against the hone as the rest if the blade. The water will move just as evenly in front, but water wont run up the blade like it doest on other parts of the blade. I know the bevel is uneven but I can't fix it. I've tried different pressure on those parts of the blade, but it doesn't change.

You can always check the bevel by using a black felt tip marker. Darken the edge of the blade with the marker, then hone. When you examine the edge of your blade, the bevel should be evident. If properly set, the leading edge of the blade, along its full length, will be shiny where the hone cut through the ink. If there are any areas right along the edge where the ink remains this will indicate that your bevel is uneven and needs more work. Good luck. Also, don't worry too much about not being able to cut hair off the 1K. Personally, I don't even try to cut hair at that point. Good luck.

That depends how close the bevel is to being set and how much water is on the hone. For the other observation either you need to go further to get the toe and heel to rest on the hone or you may have a warped blade which will require a rocking motion during the stroke. Check your blade for a warp by using a black magic marker and color the bevel then go a few strokes on the stone and see where there is contact and where there isnt. If the blade is warped the toe and heel will be sharp on one side with a dull middle, the opposite will be true on the other side. If you dont have a warped blade you simply need to do more where you are at.

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Originally Posted by sffone

You can always check the bevel by using a black felt tip marker. Darken the edge of the blade with the marker, then hone. When you examine the edge of your blade, the bevel should be evident. If properly set, the leading edge of the blade, along its full length, will be shiny where the hone cut through the ink. If there are any areas right along the edge where the ink remains this will indicate that your bevel is uneven and needs more work. Good luck. Also, don't worry too much about not being able to cut hair off the 1K. Personally, I don't even try to cut hair at that point. Good luck.

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This is a good test to see if the bevel runs all the way to the edge, but it is not a test for whether or not the bevel is set. It is possible to pass the MMT but still not have the bevel set if there is blunting on the edge. That is why looking for reflections off the edge (looking directly at the edge itself) is helpful.

For every test, it is very important to know the limitations.

Well, I have an update.
I was able to get the bevel set and it passed the shave test after my 8K Norton. The shave was not smooth, but it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Not to bad for my first time!
Like I said, the shave was not smooth, but my face wasn't irritated and I didn't cut myself. In fact, I didn't cut myself until I did a second pass with my other shave ready blade!

All I have is my Norton 1K, and 4K/8K combo, and a pasted filly strop with .5 chromium oxide and plain leather on the other side. How can I get this razor to shave smooth with the equipment that I have? Or is it going to be necessary to purchase more stuff?

Get it to shave better - not easy to diagnose because we have no idea exactly what the edge is like/shaving like now.

I would suggest trying another 20 strokes on the 8k and then shave right off the hone. Keep doing that until you see no improvement.

Of course, there is always the chance you need to go back to the 4k first.

Or maybe you need to go back to the 1k.

Or maybe just 10 more strokes on the chrome ox would do it.

Without being able to shave with your razor, it is very very hard to say. Probably impossible. Often, even when I can shave with a razor and find it's not quite there, my first guess/try at fixing it won't work.

Play around, top down, and see what you can do. That's probably my best advice.

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Originally Posted by salazch

Well, I have an update.
I was able to get the bevel set and it passed the shave test after my 8K Norton. The shave was not smooth, but it wasn't as bad as I thought it was going to be. Not to bad for my first time!
Like I said, the shave was not smooth, but my face wasn't irritated and I didn't cut myself. In fact, I didn't cut myself until I did a second pass with my other shave ready blade!

All I have is my Norton 1K, and 4K/8K combo, and a pasted filly strop with .5 chromium oxide and plain leather on the other side. How can I get this razor to shave smooth with the equipment that I have? Or is it going to be necessary to purchase more stuff?

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you have everything what you need to make your blade shave ready which you can get smooth blade.
i remember i have used more then 2 years stones which you have at the moment.
Try this.
on 8k make very light strokes then go head use chro2 lets say 50 strokes ..
good strop test shave .
if blade is not in there go head 50 more chro2 and shave test.

You could replace 50 strokes with 30 too.
let us know if you still have more questions.
gl

okay guys, that settles it. we need a meetup at my house!
lol. just kidding. but seriously, if there is anybody that lives in the Salt Lake City area I'd love to get together.

A "meet-up" with someone is a great idea. I've done it with AFDavisII here in Virginia, and it made all the difference. Learning this stuff, especially honing and stropping, by way of the printed word is very difficult. Seeing it done well in person gives you a model to work from. Having someone show you how the various sharpness tests work and how to personalize them is invaluable.

I used to restore fine old English smoking pipes to "like new" condition. I could write someone a letter and tell them precisely how I did it, but that doesn't mean that they would have "learned" those skills. Doing so takes someone showing you not just what is to be done but how each step is performed and when to move on to the next step. You just can't "tell" someone that kind of thing.

I know "how" to perform a great golf swing, but that doesn't mean I can just go out and do it. That's why there are golf professionals. Here we have razor blade experts and honemeisters. I'd get together with one. What I learned in four hours with AFDavisII has made all the difference.

Good luck!

I have a smoothing trick for the Norton 8k

After you get the edge as good as you think you can on the hone _STOP_
clean the hone, rinse the hone...

Now very very slowly and as with just enough pressure to keep the blade even on the hone (Butterfly's kiss pressure :) )
Start doing the most perfect X strokes you can manage, taking 2 full seconds at least from end to end... Keep doing them until the hone goes to just barely damp.. That will get the max out of the Norton 8k IME then do the CrOx or whatever your stropping plans are...

Try it with intense concentration on those 15-20 strokes I think you will be very happy with what happens... Keep in mind these is for after you think you have it as good as it gets... :)