Genco and a hammer

Awhile ago I bought a cheap Genco Registered on e-bay to practice my honing.
It was slightly warped, but I've managed to got a good edge on it and had a nice shave.
I've decided to buy a new one and got Ontario made by Genco.
Condition of the new razor was excellent, except one thing ... it was warped even more then my first, cheap one. :cry:

Then I saw the Dovo video and notice one guy checking for warpage and correcting it with a hammer :idea:

I've put the razor on very heavy metal base and hit it firm but gently on spine multiply times until the warpage was gone. I don't see any marks on the razor, only on the hammer. :)
The razor was honed and provided very good shave.

Well the blade is a little flexible and as long as you
do not cause it to crack you can adjust it a bit. For those reading
this months from now this is a risk. However it
worked.... so enjoy.

Enjoy your shave...

PS:
There are a lot of antique blades that are
slightly off and may never have honed up
well for the original owner. Modern hones,
tricks like the magic marker and a cautious eye
and you can find a prize.

I just share my experience and had nothing to loose.

I would not try this on any valuable razor!

I have a few razor boxes that are labeled "Wretched Refuse." These are razors that are beyond redemption but at least maybe can yield a pair of thrust washers. They are also handy for various cruel experiments that occasionally come to mind. Thank you for suggestion, as I had never thought of beating on them with a hammer!!!

Here a link to the video inspired the experiment:
Making Dovo razors
At 1:50 you will see a hammer in action :)

Maybe I don't really know as much as I think I know, but I believe those Dovo's that get hammered are not hardened, and you are very luck you didn't shatter your razor when you hammered it. The spines do stay a bit softer than the thinner parts of the blade, but still lucky...

You are right, but other option was only to cut my hone and as I said before I had nothing to loose.

In the video they hammered hardened blades.
Was it final hardening process?

I don't understand the reference to cutting your hone, but if you mean to hone a warped blade - you do not need a narrow hone to hone a warped blade.

With regards to the hammering, I'll leave that to the steel guys, but I'm pretty sure that was before the final hardening. They talked about baking to relieve stresses; I believe that means they were tempering the blade, which softens it. But, like I said, I'm not the one to talk about that as my... if one would call it knowledge... is second hand.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by holli4pirating

I don't understand the reference to cutting your hone, but if you mean to hone a warped blade - you do not need a narrow hone to hone a warped blade.

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I need to learn how to do it without narrow hone.
I hope you will help me in person at Toronto-area-meet:w

I'm sure there is more than one way, but I'd be happy to show you how I do it. It was explained to me as honing off the side of the hone, and I think that is a great way to put it.

Holli -

do you mean standing your hone on it's side, or honing off the chamfered edge?

I've done the "chamfered edge" very carefully and it seemed to work.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mist

I need to learn how to do it without narrow hone.
I hope you will help me in person at Toronto-area-meet:w

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I can help you with that...

Take a marker and lightly draw a line 1 or 1 1/2 inches from the edge of your hone along the full length of your honing surface. Now imagine that you have cut your hone down that line and hone only on your newly, and cheaply, acquired narrow hone.
You don't need a narrow hone. You just need to learn to hone AS IF you were honing on a narrow hone.

By the way, I figured this out only AFTER buying a full set of narrow Norton hones!

I tried the hammer trick on a $2 Jones razor from eBay. Didn't seem to want to take the warp out (which leads me to believe that I didn't cause it while clamping it to my work table in the first place). However, I may not have hammered correctly or in the right spot. Mine was warped (or bent) on the tang or at the tang/blade transition, so I clamped it in the vice and put a jack handle over the tang and straightened it :D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Utopian

Take a marker and lightly draw a line 1 or 1 1/2 inches from the edge of your hone

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I would be happy to have 1/2", but the blade was warped so badly, when I was on concave side I had less then 1/16" of contact area. Was working almost on the edge of the hone.

I was even thinking to make the edge of the hone wider. :hmmm:
It is easier than cut the hone.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rannalf

I tried the hammer trick on a $2 Jones razor from eBay. Didn't seem to want to take the warp out (which leads me to believe that I didn't cause it while clamping it to my work table in the first place). However, I may not have hammered correctly or in the right spot. Mine was warped (or bent) on the tang or at the tang/blade transition, so I clamped it in the vice and put a jack handle over the tang and straightened it :D

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:beer1: If you have a $2 razor you could go wild ;)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Maxi

Holli -

do you mean standing your hone on it's side, or honing off the chamfered edge?

I've done the "chamfered edge" very carefully and it seemed to work.

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Both work, but now that I'm on Naniwas using the edge is not an option so I use the chamfered edges.