smiling edges

Is it just my imagination, or is it easier to hone a razor with a slight smile than it is to hone a straight edge?

I picked up a Wade & Butcher 8/8 frameback on ebay a few days ago that had that curve to the blade that you see so often on old framebacks. I cleaned out the nicks and honed it up and got a beautiful edge on it with very little trouble (verified with a test shave). Unfortunately, I managed to destroy that edge while scrubbing off some of the crud. Tried and failed to correct it with a paddle strop, then put it back on the norton tonight and promptly brought that poppin-sharp edge back (and verified again with a test shave).

Prior to this I've only been able to get nearly shave-sharp on the norton, and always had to finish on the 3 micron, 1 micron, and 0.5 micron pasted paddles, and even then never got quite this sharp, much less twice like this.

Maybe it just that the rock-and-roll motion is similar to the motion I use when sharpening a knife?

I know there are some who say the shape of the razor governs the ease of honing but personally I find the grind of the razor is what seems to affect how easily the razor will hone up. The old wedges are a bear to hone and I have a couple framebacks with a flat grind to them which hone very easily while the hollows are inbetween.

Usually when I get an eboy special I give it my usual honing routine and most respond no matter the blade shape. If they don't then I just go back and redo the bevel on the 4K and then once that edge has been honed into submission it will do anything I ask of it.

I find smiles offer a clear opportunity to concentrate sequentially up the entire edge during the honing stroke and that makes a great difference. I really notice this on edges which are intended to have smile (they have curved spines). not only that, but they are my favourite to shave with as well. The curved ends get out of my way when I'm shaving in the tight corners under the jawline and beside my adam's apple.

X

[QUOTE=thebigspendur]I know there are some who say the shape of the razor governs the ease of honing but personally I find the grind of the razor is what seems to affect how easily the razor will hone up. The old wedges are a bear to hone and I have a couple framebacks with a flat grind to them which hone very easily while the hollows are inbetween.QUOTE]


Can anyone tell me what a frameback is?

Framebacks are an old grind that look kind of like a "T" in cross-section. They were occasionally made in the 20th century as well. John Crowley has some lovely NOS 6/8 framebacks for sale, for example this one.

Nice razors by the looks of them. Thanks for your answer.

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Originally Posted by mparker762

Is it just my imagination, or is it easier to hone a razor with a slight smile than it is to hone a straight edge?

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I doubt it's easier, but it does depend on your honing style for example if you use a wide hone and push straight across the stone you will always geet a straight edge and it will not be difficult if you're careful about using even pressure. One way is to use both ands and don't apply uneven pressur with them.

A slight smile (which is all anyone needs and all that is ever mentioned by the barber manual) can be gotten the same way. With a curved spine you'll get an edge that matches the curve of the spine.

Most newbies will get some kind of a curve in the edge (maybe only at the tip) if they use a narrow hone and the x-pattern.

Well, after spending yesterday honing up some of the languishing pile, I don't think it's the edge shape after all. My honing just took a quantum leap this week, and the W&B was the first beneficiary.

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Originally Posted by mparker762

Well, after spending yesterday honing up some of the languishing pile, I don't think it's the edge shape after all. My honing just took a quantum leap this week, and the W&B was the first beneficiary.

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If I might suggest ...

1. Make notes. I spent some time in the last year relearning what I should have already known because I forgot what it was I did that worked last time.

2. Keep in mind that each blade arrives in a unique state and may require unique approaches.

3. Consider that you may be wrong about what you thought did the trick. That's 'doubt' and it's the seed of wisdom.

X

X gave you great advice. I might just add "use your brain before you use your hone." Whatever you do, don't assume the same remedy will work for all razors. Before you do anything evaluate the razor. Here's an article about the way I do honing http://straightrazorpalace.com/image...H/thumbtst.pdf. You should develop your own approach.

I suggest that you learn the thumbnail test and do it on any old razor you pick up. It will tell you quickly if the razor is dull, has chips, has a wire edge or is ready for final honing. That will give you an idea of not only how much work it will need, but what kind of work. From there, it would help to learn a sharpness test (HHT or whatever) so you know when to stop and try shaving. If you don't you'll be jumping back and forth constantly between the shaving test and honing. This can be very frustrating, especially when you're just starting out.

It might also pay to get a Radio Shack pocket microscope ($10). It can give you a magnified look at the edge which will also help you evaluate it and decide what work it needs. It can reveal many problems you can't see, such as dullness, chips and unevenness in the edge, and a wire edge. It's the only way I know of to discover microscopic oxidation (rust) on the edge. If the edge looks sharp, straight and even and is shiny under the microscope, it will be shave ready a high percentage of the time.

Thanks for the advice. I am familar with the thumbnail test and the thumb pad test (though my thumb isn't sufficiently calibrated for this one yet).

The change that effected this was discovering a better sharpness test. I had been using "hair-popping" on my arm just behind my watch. While comparing my razors with one from Joe Chandler, I discovered that there's a fairly smooth gradient in hair stiffness from the top of my arm around to the bottom that I can use to get a good idea how sharp the blade is. Mine would pop the hairs on the top, his would pop all the way around and down to the wrist. The W&B frameback was the first razor I honed after discovering this. I honed it so that it would pass the bottom of the wrist test on the 8k, then took it to the 1 and 0.5 micron paddles for a few laps. I was so pleased with the shave that Saturday I went and honed several other razors (both Friodur's, the Clarke&Son, a W&B, the Heljestrand, and the Neistrom), lathered up and verified them all. Which is good, because I need a few weeks to grow back the hair on my wrists.

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Originally Posted by mparker762

Thanks for the advice. I am familar with the thumbnail test and the thumb pad test (though my thumb isn't sufficiently calibrated for this one yet).

The change that effected this was discovering a better sharpness test.

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It sounds like you're all set.

You found a great test that works for you. I could never get thee HHT to work for me with any razor regardless of who honed (or even the Feather str8). Oh, it would cut hairs but very little. I think my hair is just too fine. I could see the longer hairs being cut, but it was hardly popping. That's why I went to my test.

The hair on my head is much finer than the hair on my arms, or at least a different quality of hair. None of my razors pass the HHT with hair from my head, not even a feather blade will pass.