What should C12K slurry look like? I use my slurry stone on it and it's barely visible. Rub harder? Longer? (that didn't sound right). Or, is C12K slurry not milky like coticule slurry?
Printable View
What should C12K slurry look like? I use my slurry stone on it and it's barely visible. Rub harder? Longer? (that didn't sound right). Or, is C12K slurry not milky like coticule slurry?
I've had little luck with a slurry stone on the C12K as well. The best thing that Imjve found to create slurry on it is the Norton flattening stone. It leaves a light grey, clay like slurry that cuts much quicker than water alone.
I bet you really don't want to hear my answer :)
Just like the Coticule, not all PHIG's are created the same, some give of a darker Gray weak sorta grainy slurry, others give off a Gray smooth slurry, and mine gives off an almost white silky slurry ... It took me 4 PHIGs before I kept this one :) As we always say "A natural stone is by its very nature inconsistent from to another"...
ps: I use a DMT 325 to raise the slurry...
The slurry is way different.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickboone
Slurry tends to speed up a hone... I am not sure
that is what you want with the Ch12+/-K hone anyhow.
As a finisher what tricks help it finish better.
My guess is just to rub the rock to clean the
surface and call it good. The rough surface
from the Norton flattening stone might get in
the way of the finishing action. A rubbing
stone should calm down the surface and
leave a light slurry. If a slurry is important
try to not wash it down the drain when it
is so hard to generate.
A Norton nagura would shed grit and make the
Ch12+/-K rock hone faster. Try one they
are inexpensive.
Have you tried it like that ? No Good ???Quote:
Originally Posted by rickboone
I'm thinking that may be perfect for the last 10 -15 strokes but of course it could depend on the previous stone used.
Mind you I used to use a 3 figure stroke count when I owned one but then I heard some guy say "less is more" :)
rickboone,
IIRC quite a number of SRP members recommend using a credit card sized DMT 325 (or other similarly sized diamond hone) for raising slurry on the PHIG '12k'.
Have fun !
Best regards
Russ
Beat me to it!Quote:
Originally Posted by PhatMan
This is what I use on my Chinese hone: 3-1/4'' x 2'' Wallet-Sized Diamond Sharpening Stone - Rockler Woodworking Tools
I think I have the "extra fine" one.
The little wallet size diamond hones are a bargain.Quote:
Originally Posted by adbuett
They are big enough that the razor can see a surface
that is flat enough.
Lapping on 3M paper makes it easy to identify
high spots to worry down when making a slurry
and keep the bulk of the hone flat.
As hard as my PHUG is any slurry stone could be
used within limits to change the character.
My current PHUG activity is to find out how
to make it finish best. I have man made hones
that remove steel more than fast enough so
I am concentrating my tinkering on finishing
and polishing.
PHUG PeoplesHoneUncertainGrit -- sort of
sounds like a small dog... Some love them.
Hey, Rick.
I've used a Norton synthetic ruby stone, but have also used DMT, Atoma. Slurry is light milky gray.
Oz, less is more on a c12k? Wow. I'm still in the triple digit stroke counts. They're so slow I don't see how that would work, but you've done this enough to know. 'Really curious how you make few strokes so effective.
You do need to rub it vigorously, It's not like a Coticule, It's not going to give up slurry easily, but they do. Those are some hard stones compared to Coti's. You think the C12k is bad, You should try raising slurry on a J nat, especially a Shoubudani...What you can do, is use the slurry stone on it edge, The long edge, like a 45 degree angle...and not too much water....
pinkl, read again : "Mind you I used to use a 3 figure stroke count when I owned one" .. which is why I asked if Rick had tried it with the "invisible slurry".Quote:
Originally Posted by [B
It depends on how you define finishing. If you're doing a one hone process or trying to make up for work that could have been done earlier then surely the stroke count rises, I don't call that finishing, but if you're tweaking the last 1% of the edge, thick slurries & high stroke counts "may" work against the goal. I often "finish" on my asagi by doing 5 or 6 very small circles on it with my 1200 Atoma to prepare slurry. I would swear there is no slurry there as I can't see it but when the water runs up over the razor I can see the water is not clear. Finishing for me is then in groups of 5 ultra light strokes. If the first 5 don't do it I repeat until my tests are passed. I'm probably just trying to do on stones what others do on pastes . I dunno.
Oz, Thank You.
What stone are you coming from before going to the Asagi? I'm usually coming from a coti these days, else a Nani 8k.
Hmmm Oddly enough my PHIG gives up slurry just like my Thuringen and my Escher, it must be from the LePetite Guanaugxi Vein or perhaps the La Dessente Ming Dynasty Vein :rofl2: :rofl2:
Ming Veinette, with twice cooked pork :)
I'd tell tell you but I experiment so much it's almost psychedelic, hehe. Just the other day I went from 5k J-Shap to Asagi. Yup it worked just fine ... for that razor.Quote:
Originally Posted by pinklather
Somwhere on the Forum was photos of the edge that was finished just on C12K and photos finished on C12K with slurry. The one which was finished with slurry got deeper scratches so I am asking is there any good to use C12K with slurry when you try to finish your razor?
Quote:
Originally Posted by KING2011
Slurry -to- clear water is finishing technique just slurry I just see no reason for...
Here is a thread from last year with some ideas about slurries
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...rt-slurry.html
I basically use a light slurry on every natural stone for finishing for the first 20 laps or so to "train" the razor to the stone then dilute out to clear water as I finish.. Is it better ???? I don't know,,, it seems to work well for me YMMV
I have yet to find a Nagura stone that will effectively raise slurry on my C12K. When tried, you will just wear away your Nagura, and end up with Nagura slurry on the hone. I use my DMT325, which seems to work well. The best way I have found to finish an edge with it, is to hone until done on the 8K then use the DMT to get a slurry on both the 8K and 12K stones. I then do a pyramid between the 8K and 12K diluting the 8K to clear. At the end of the pyramid I still have slurry on the 12K. I then use the 12K diluting to clear, and finish by rinsing the stone off, wiping the excess water off with my finger, and do absolutely NO pressure perfect X and heal forward strokes until the stone is dry. This ends up with a fantastic edge that is comfortable to shave with.
You should never use a rubbing stone on a Chinese 12K, nor should you use a Chinese 12K as a rubbing stone.
The best rubbing stone for a Chinese hone is a People's Hone of Indeterminate Grit. You can buy one from a few different people, or you can make one yourself by cutting it off the end of your hone.
Would that be a PRIG?
C15k, PHIG, C12k+, People's Hone of Unknown GritQuote:
Originally Posted by roughkype
If the rock is a dog call it a PHUG (sounds like PUG) Peoples Hone Uncertain Grit.
They vary a lot. I own one that was sold as 15K and it is closer to 800 grit. :ziplip:
The rocks from Woodcraft are more predictable than the eBay rocks.
Currently the price is right so give them a try.
Someone is going to find a bluff of superior silt stone on their
back forty and discover that it can be low fired into a very
fine razor hone. The problem is that the market for razor
hones is too small and the bonus is that Japan makes some
top notch ultra fine water hones today.
I've tried my Chi-Com stone with and without slurry and it does make a huge difference, IMHO to use slurry. Unless, one has days to work the edge...
I have tried it like that, but can't tell you if it's good or bad. Not enough trial and experience to really know.Quote:
Originally Posted by onimaru55
I've been attempting to raise this slurry with a piece of another C12K hone made into a "slurry" stone. (it came with it).
What is PHIG?
Maybe try shaving off your last stone before the PHIG (Peoples Hone Of Indeterminate Grit) then do X amount of strokes on the PHIG to see what the difference is. Like I said you don't generally need a thick slurry for finishing & some finish on plain water.Quote:
Originally Posted by rickboone