So for my first dumb question.....
What here will need to be lapped ?
Im pretty sure they all will after watching Lynn & Glens videos, but is there anything extra I need to do the first time I go to use them?
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So for my first dumb question.....
What here will need to be lapped ?
Im pretty sure they all will after watching Lynn & Glens videos, but is there anything extra I need to do the first time I go to use them?
use the DMT
an alternative would be sand paper progression on a flat surface.
Flatter hones should always be better. The Superstones all seem to change shape from when they are wet to when they are dry. I typically leave mine under a dripping faucet for about 5 mins, then lap the one I'm about to use, then hone, then repeat with the next.
But, when I first got my Superstones, I peeled off the labels and set to work, just to see if it could be done. The edges were as good as any (I did a batch of about 12). But I still always lap before use.
EarthDawn,
The first lapping of most hones will usually take the greatest amount of effort.
Using a DMT 325 is the cleanest and easiest tool for the job; when I got mine I used silicon carbide paper, and it was a bit messy. After that I bought the DMT 325 !
If you use a DMT 325 for lapping, make sure you rinse off the slurry very often - with the higher 'grit' stones you can get some serious 'stiction' !
If you are extra cautious, start lapping the highest 'grit' stone first, followed by the next highest etc, finishing with the 'coarest'.
I have found that my Naniwas seem to have 'settled down' after some two years of use - i.e. the amount of lapping I need to do before each honing session is much reduced.
For each session 'lapping', I now do what GSSixgun does in his most excellent series of video tutorials - just a few figure of eights with the DMT 325.
Have fun with your Naniwas - for me, they have been superb hones :)
Good luck !
Best regards
Russ
First time out, make sure the hones quit drinking water and are wet. I have the best luck from daily lapping after use to both clean and maintain flatness. That way, when I put them up, all I have to do is wet them for the next time and they are ready to go without any problems.
Have fun,
Lynn
At last, an explanation that I can understand (says Mr Stupid)!Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynn
It makes sense to soak the new stone and let it warp all that it's going to. THEN lap it.
Keep it wet while honing, lap it again when finished, and put it away.
Next time, soak it, and presumably it returns to it's former wet-state flatness.
Thereafter, lap when finished.
I don't know why it took so long for the light to come on....My kids call me Mr Coconut Head.
Thanks, Lynn
Paul
Tap water or distilled water when soaking?
Also, how long should they soak the first time?
I've used both tap water and ultra purified water measuring less than 3 milliohms from a $750,000 dollar filtration system for aircraft engines and I can't tell a difference. I always dry my razor immediately afterwards and I haven't had a problem with rust. I have the 10mm thick stones and I soak them for about 15 minutes before use. They probably don't need more then 5 minutes, 15 is just how it works out for me while I'm setting up. I've read that you can just spray water on them and hone away, but I haven't had the best results doing that (probably just me). Other probably do it differently but I like soaking them it works for me. I also lap under running water after honing. My OCD will not let me store them with any swarf or the imagined/invisible swarf in the higher grit stones.
Sean