Okay, I'm stuck

So I'm having trouble on my hones. I seem to be setting an okay bevel, but its not getting sharp enough to cut hair. Its sharp alright, and it would totally cut myself if got stupid, but I don't know if I'm supposed to move on. I'm being very careful and keeping the blade level and flat on the hone, and not using more then enough pressure than needed to keep it on the one and maintain contact on the pass.

Should I not move up from the 1K till it can cut hair? Or is it not supposed to cut hair off the 1K?

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Originally Posted by salazch

and not using more then enough pressure than needed to keep it on the one and maintain contact on the pass.

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There's your problem, when setting a bevel, pressure is your friend. Don't be afraid to torque it down quite a bit.

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Originally Posted by Blix

There's your problem, when setting a bevel, pressure is your friend. Don't be afraid to torque it down quite a bit.

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So do you stop that kind of pressure when you move off the 1k?

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Originally Posted by salazch

So do you stop that kind of pressure when you move off the 1k?

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Im nowhere near a pro-honer but after I've got it to cut/"semi-cut" i do a few laps without pressure on 1k and then move to my 4k applying no pressure. Works alright for me but perhaps its smart to wait and see what the guys with more routine say :)

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Originally Posted by salazch

So do you stop that kind of pressure when you move off the 1k?

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After 1k I use way less pressure for sure, a tiny bit at 2k maybe, bur from there just enough to keep the blade evenly on the hone.

And yeah, the last few strokes on the 1k is def. lighter than the first.

How much pressure is too much on the 1k?

Thanks for the help.
As for hitting hair, should it be able to cut off the 1k?

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Originally Posted by salazch

How much pressure is too much on the 1k?

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About the same amount of pressure you'd use for an eraser on paper.

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As for hitting hair, should it be able to cut off the 1k?

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Yes, and for the entire length of the blade. otherwise you haven't really created an edge, and you aren't ready for polishing.

Indeed, must cut hair. I also find the thumb nail test valuable, it's easy too feel if your blade is sharp or not along the edge.

Salaczh,
Don't be afraid of pressure on the 1K while you are getting your bevel set.

Check out Glen's videos here: http://straightrazorpalace.com/video...-gssixgun.html Particularly, the ones for honing a smiling wedge. When he does bevel setting circles, he uses enough pressure to leave evidence of metal on the stone. That was a huge breakthrough for me. I spent hours (and hours and hours) trying to get my razors sharp only to come up unable to get them to shave. I was never getting the bevel properly set. When I started using pretty significant pressure on the 1K to get a bevel really set - able to pop hairs on my arm before moving on - the 4K, 8K and finish became very predictable and I got even my long term problem razors "shave ready". I use enough torque to leave small indentations on my thumb/finger.

As folks above have stated AFTER it pops hair on my arm, I always end the 1K with 10 - 20 very light X or swooping strokes before moving on to the finer stones. From the 4K up keep the pressure very light.

I'll bet that will solve your problem. Good luck.

Thanks for the help. I'm gonna try it tonight and I'll update you guys soon.

Another thought - If you are using tape on the spine of your razor, be sure to apply fresh tape between each step to a finer stone.

If you're using tape on 1K, you will have to change it every time you see wear on the tape. On 1K, that is rather frequently. If you don't, the bevel will be slightly rounded. I check my bevel visually under bright light and a 10X loupe. When the edge no longer reflects light, the bevel is complete. I don't rely on hair-cutting tests and use the TNT only for bevel confirmation. After that, of course, you need a few more passes on the 1K.

I just uploaded this so it might take a min before the link is live. Sorry about the video quality.
Straight Razor Honing Attempt - YouTube

Sadly it's still not going all that well. I've been busy so I haven't had too much time to practice.

Are the bevels an even size on spine & edge ? The stroke you are using cannot possibly sharpen a warped blade. Does you razor sit perfectly flat on the stones or does it rock. If you have a dead straight & true razor your bevel should be set & cutting arm hair but if the spine is not true you are dead in the water without some gymnastics & the X stroke.
Check with a marker if your stroke is contacting all the way to the edge. Razor geometry & compensatory strokes my be the issue & not pressure. To be honest I find pressure overrated. See how little pressure it takes to flex your edge away from your thumb nail. Your honing stroke needs to be lighter than that or the edge doesn't contact enough for a swift result. Appropriate torque is important too so you hone the edge but less on the spine. If you are getting big wide bevels & no sharpness your pressure is too high.

Additionally, make sure that you have lapped your stones properly. That was my culprit.

I was using sandpaper on glass earlier and what was happening was that the wet sandpaper started curling under the stone an lapping the stone unevenly. I got a dmt duosharp diamond plate for lapping and coarse work and it works great for that.