What do I need to get started honing

Ok now that I have a few SR's I figure I should get some hones and start learning...

However the more I read the more confused I get, I figure I can do most of what I need with a 4k/8k stone...but then I need lapping stones? Stones to rub on them to make a slurry?


Kind of getting tight on funds but want to practice learning this skill....what do I need at an absolute min?

(I'm sure this has been discussed to death already but there is just so much info it's hard to pick the gems out) :)


Thanks in advance!

This is what I started with and is still my regiment; not the cheapest, though; just shop the prices:
Norton 220/1000, Norton 4000/8000, Shapton 16000 & a 3 inch strop & DMT 325 for lapping.

At bare minimum, all you need is a barber hone or 10k+ stone. This will keep an already shave ready razor shaving pretty much for a lifetime barring an accident with the blade.

DMT 325 for lapping and a Naniwa 3/8k or Norton 4/8k I'd personally call absolute minimum. :)

I forgot the DMT 325; :gth going to "Edit"

There are many options and you're likely to get more responses to the several this thread has already attracted.

I think it's important to appreciate there is a difference between maintenance of razors which are already shave-ready and honing. Honing may be sharpening a factory razor or correcting a bevel of a razor you have perhaps dropped or damaged similarly. Then there restoration which is required on badly damaged razors such as those with visible chips. This would come prior to honing. Once you have distinguished what it is you wish to achieve, then we can advise accordingly.

Both the 4/8 Norton and 3/8 Naniwa can do everything you'll ever need to do with the addition of a lapping plate. They can even bevel set, albeit it not as efficiently as a coarser 1k. Both excellent options.

Barber hones can maintain a shave-ready razor, some say indefinitely. They can not do anything else. They are almost alien to me, having owned one for a short period and never enjoying using it for its odd feedback and rather irritable edges. It was a Hibbard Spencer Bartlett and Co.

There is the option to use naturals, such as a coticule or vintage Thuringian. These are my preferences if all you wish to do is maintain a few shave-ready razors. Some will argue they are an expensive option, but a vintage Thuringian can be had from time to time for circa 100 dollars here in the classifieds. It is my favourite finisher and what I use predominantly to maintain my razors.

Perhaps this is the best route, then later should you wish to sharpen and restore you can add at 4/8.

If money is an issue, you can flatten a stone with 300-grit wet-or-dry sandpaper and a marble or granite tile. Pu the sandpaper on the tile, and rub the stone on the sandpaper under running water.

There's no need for slurry on the Norton stones.

Honinng doesn't _have to be_ complicated, or expensive.

Charles

I started with a king 1k a Belgian blue and a Chinese 12k stone. Cheap choices, and work great. for slurry stone, I think a C12k piece will be enough although I haven't tried it on the king stone I have. The BBW and C12k need lapping once a year (and usually before you use them for the first time), so a couple of sheets sandpaper is more than enough. This combo requires some experience, so keep that in mind if you choose it. The absolute minimum for a new razor would be a C12k, a piece of balsa wood and some CrOx. All together will cost less than 40$

Thanks guys :)
For now I just want to maintain an already shave ready razor, I have one that came shave ready and one I bought brand new that I will soon send to lynn to be made shave ready (I figure it's worth 20 bucks to have the master sharpen it the first time ;) )

I have the balsa with the pastes (Came with the whipped dog kit) still unsure of how/when to use it tho,

So unless I'm misreading this:

For maintenance all I need is a 12k or barbers stone but I COULD do it with the 4k/8k? If the 4k/8k could do the maintenance of an already shave ready razor and it can also do more then it sounds like it would be the way to go? (that way I can get into more as I get more addicted to this LOL)

Which pastes come in the kit?

But basically, i am going to assume green chromium oxide is one of them, you use a stropping motion with a light touch. I would do 5 strokes, test. Needs more, another 5 strokes. If 15 strokes does not do the needful, you probably need to go a bit coarser.

FYI. I only play a honemeister on TV. This is just like my opinion man.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcgyver74

Thanks guys :)
For now I just want to maintain an already shave ready razor, I have one that came shave ready and one I bought brand new that I will soon send to lynn to be made shave ready (I figure it's worth 20 bucks to have the master sharpen it the first time ;) )

I have the balsa with the pastes (Came with the whipped dog kit) still unsure of how/when to use it tho,

So unless I'm misreading this:

For maintenance all I need is a 12k or barbers stone but I COULD do it with the 4k/8k? If the 4k/8k could do the maintenance of an already shave ready razor and it can also do more then it sounds like it would be the way to go? (that way I can get into more as I get more addicted to this LOL)

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcgyver74

Thanks guys :)
For now I just want to maintain an already shave ready razor, I have one that came shave ready and one I bought brand new that I will soon send to lynn to be made shave ready (I figure it's worth 20 bucks to have the master sharpen it the first time ;) )

I have the balsa with the pastes (Came with the whipped dog kit) still unsure of how/when to use it tho,

So unless I'm misreading this:

For maintenance all I need is a 12k or barbers stone but I COULD do it with the 4k/8k? If the 4k/8k could do the maintenance of an already shave ready razor and it can also do more then it sounds like it would be the way to go? (that way I can get into more as I get more addicted to this LOL)

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To just maintain the edges of your razors you really just need the CrOx on balsa, newspaper, cloth strop, leather strop or the likes. Run the blade over the CrOx like you were stropping it (spine leading) but slowly a few times when the razor starts to tug a little. A few years ago when I started into straight razor shaving the 4/8k Norton hones were the recommended. Since then the finishing hones were much finer, 10k of finer than that. If you just want to maintain your blades the CrOx will do but you can add the 4/8k hone. For touch ups don't go below the 8k and finish on the CrOx. If it still tugs go to the 4k and work your way back up to the 8k and then the CrOx. Most people providing professional honing use much finer hones that 8k to finish with and then may hit some type of paste/spray like CrOx of diamond. Your edges may not be as smooth if you end on the 8k. A good barber's hone is also a good choice to replace the 4/8k hone for maintenance and you can still use the CrOx as a final touch. Good luck.

the kit came with Red and Green paste on balsa and a leather strop.

Before I shave I usually do 20 passes (Spine leading) with the leather strop, then I shave and then do another 20 after shaving. The razor I actually use is starting to tug a bit I think (I'm still new at this so it MAY be me and not the razor) would it hurt to do a balsa pass then re-strop if it's not the razor and it's just me?

I would do 5 light strokes on the pasted balsa(remember stropping motion). Then go to your unpasted leather strop. I think 20 may be on the low side. See if you can manage 40-60. Do not worry about blazing speed, that will come in time.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcgyver74

the kit came with Red and Green paste on balsa and a leather strop.

Before I shave I usually do 20 passes (Spine leading) with the leather strop, then I shave and then do another 20 after shaving. The razor I actually use is starting to tug a bit I think (I'm still new at this so it MAY be me and not the razor) would it hurt to do a balsa pass then re-strop if it's not the razor and it's just me?

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Ok I'll try that....should I use the red or the green side?

Is this the poor mans strop kit?
0.1 micron iron oxide, powder, tablespoonful
0.3 micron chromium oxide, powder, tablespoonful

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcgyver74

Ok I'll try that....should I use the red or the green side?

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Yes it's the poor mans strop kit :) I assume I want the .3 for touching up?

Ok so I ordered the following:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...00_i00_details

I figure that with the balsa should be enough to touch up my existing razor, as well as hone a razor I'm restoring :) Is the SIC stone ok for lapping or should I get the DMT 325 anyway?

Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcgyver74

Ok so I ordered the following:

Amazon.com: Norton Waterstone Starter Kit: 220/1000 grit stone, 4000/8000 grit stone, SiC flattening stone: Industrial & Scientific

I figure that with the balsa should be enough to touch up my existing razor, as well as hone a razor I'm restoring :) Is the SIC stone ok for lapping or should I get the DMT 325 anyway?

Thanks

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The Norton lapping stone needs lapping... :) Get a DMT 325 for sure! It's a must have for any honer.

You will need to occasionally lap the lapping stone.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcgyver74

Ok so I ordered the following:

Amazon.com: Norton Waterstone Starter Kit: 220/1000 grit stone, 4000/8000 grit stone, SiC flattening stone: Industrial & Scientific

I figure that with the balsa should be enough to touch up my existing razor, as well as hone a razor I'm restoring :) Is the SIC stone ok for lapping or should I get the DMT 325 anyway?

Thanks

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The Norton lapping plate will work just fine as long as you soak it and lap it with some 400 grit wet/dry paper before taking the stones to it. The lapping plates are a waterstone themselves and usually need a lapping before use.

So how do I do this with the sandpaper? I'd imagine that would wear finger lines into it?????

Attach the sandpaper to a flat surface and then rub the lapping plate over the sandpaper in a figure eight motion until flat.

Any flat surface or does it have to be a "Special extra flat" surface?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcgyver74

Any flat surface or does it have to be a "Special extra flat" surface?

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I've seen a lot of members recommend glass plates, ceramic tiles, etc. My first lapping was done with sandpaper on the kitchen breakfast counter. Spray the counter with water, wet the wet/dry sandpaper and lay it on the wet counter and it will suction well enough to run the stone over it. Problem, it makes a mess on the counter, leaves abrasives that cause scratches, etc. The next day I ordered the DMT 325, never needs lapped, and I use it to clean each stones surface prior to honing. As per gssixgun's videos. I don't think you will ever regret pulling the trigger for a DMT. Regards, Howard

Ok, I will order a DMT

So from what I understand, with what I have plus some CrOx I can pretty much touch up any razor I own as well as set a bevel and hone a dull razor... Excited to learn :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mcgyver74

Ok, I will order a DMT

So from what I understand, with what I have plus some CrOx I can pretty much touch up any razor I own as well as set a bevel and hone a dull razor... Excited to learn :)

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I think you'd be good to go. Those are the stones I started with and and still use on occasion and they'll do the job, bevel to shave ready. You'll probably add more later, i.e. Naniwa 12k or Shapton 16k, it's addictive you know!! You also might consider these stone holders. Buy Stone Holders at Woodcraft I keep the DMT325 in one all the time and use the second one for the nortons by just changing as I hone. They're really handy, but you can get along without them. Good Luck with the honing!! Howard

Ps. I would lap the coarser stones first. It kind of breaks in the DMT and smooths the surface a liitle before going to the 8000.