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I am not getting good results when using chrome oxide on balsa wood . Do most people sand it ultra smoothe or leave it rougth . Also how do you apply it to the wood . I have tried putting it on dry and also mixing it with neatsfoot oil but the razors edge seems to dull .
It is better mixed as a paste with the oil and lightly and I do mean lightly spread on. If you spread it on thick it will, in my experience, leave your razor dull and in need of stones again. when I do mine i just use the tip of my finger and draw X's down the balsa wipe off excess and strop when dry.
You shouldn't need to sand (if you can draw your hand over it without getting splinters it should be fine) and apply mixed with some oil (clean mineral oil is fine and you can dip your finger in it and then dip in chrome oxide and then apply)...
If it seems dull tell us more about how it was honed.Quote:
Originally Posted by Baldylocks
CrOx will polish the edge more than sharpen it. If
'sharp' was a false sharp from a burr CrOx will remove
the burr. With the burr removed a false sharp razor will
feel dull. A "true sharp" edge can shave better, smoother
and with less harshness after polishing with CrOx.
Harshness is sometimes interpreted as sharpness.
A shave test will tell. Do be willing to compare with
any single edge shaver... a DE blade or even a yellow
handled BiC tossable. Learning what sharp is and
also what dull is can profit from a "reference" shaver.
Most balsa is already flat and smooth so sanding is
optional. Dry CrOx will be dusty and not stay where
you want it. Mix with just enough oil or strop dressing
to make something that will do what you want. It can
be dense like a crayon or a drippy suspension. A little
goes a long way so mix a little at a time.
I assume you are using chromium oxide that is 0.5 micron or smaller, and is appropriate for razors.
Yep, I know all too well the results of too much chro-xde...dullness results!
Did you actually sand it? If you did, there could be some grit from the sandpaper embedded in the wood.
If you think the board is not flat enough, flatten it with a hand plane. If you don't have one, you should be able to find somebody who would be willing to give it a couple of swipes with his hand plane for free.
can the chr-ox actually get (seep) that deeply into the balsa?
A big thank you to all who helped me with their posts.
I used a cloth to remove some of the CrOx from the wood and got much better results.
However I have found that I like CrOx on leather better .
Okay, well, that last post say it all. I have been having great results with the paste on the leather as well (why mess with a good thing is my motto)!