Honing my C-MON

I picked up a C-MON handmade quite a while ago with a small chip in the blade. I progressively have been working to get the chip out each time I go through to hone one of my razors and finally got the thing out last night.

Now I'm going to set the bevel and I've established a pretty nice one throughout the greater part of the blade. My issue is that the last 1/4 inch or so just won't budge. I've been fiddling with a few different techniques I've seen but just can't get it. Basically, my result thus far is that I can visibly see the bevel under my magnifying glass however, it just won't pop any hairs as does the rest of the blade.

Any thoughts? I've never had an issue like this. I assumed once I got one part of the blade set, the rest would follow but apparently I'm wrong.

Edit:

It feels like much harder steel than other razors I've honed. Took quite a while to get where I am now.

The last 1/4 inch where? At the toe?

Photos would help; it's really hard to say what might be happening without more info.

yeah at the toe, after looking at it in the photos, it's a bit misshapen but still very strange to me. Attachment 85517Attachment 85518Attachment 85519

I realize these photos probably don't help much without better magnification but it's difficult to get much better using an iphone :-)

Either you overhoned part of the blade or that one part does not make contact with the hones. Try the bevel marker test and you will know whether the latter is the problem.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Kees

Either you overhoned part of the blade or that one part does not make contact with the hones. Try the bevel marker test and you will know whether the latter is the problem.

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Do this. From what I can see in the pics, there is a little bit of spinewear at the toe end, if so, there is wear at the toe, you will have to adjust your strokes accordingly.

Ah, awesome. I see the spine wear now. It hadn't registered that the two were related, I've never really dealt with this before.

Thanks!

for ME, honing a smiling blade is easier than a straight edge like what you have, BECAUSE I HAVE to use a rolling x stroke to hone the entire edge, and therefore am certain that every part of the edge is contacting the stone at some point. We don't think that way with a straight edge because we assume it's straight and therefore the entire edge will contact the stone properly. I'd suggest flipping the stone around, using an x stroke if you weren't before (x stroke is critical!), and focusing your efforts at the toe, as in slightly lifting the heel so the toe contacts the stone. You have to be delicate here...