Looking for help withnon visible microchipping!!

I respectfully request the opinions from members of this forum regarding dealing with non visible micro chipping of the edge which I can see using a Nikon microscope with 10X lens. I purchased a new Dovo Best Quality, Full Hollow Carbon Steel, 5/8” along with Norton 4K/8K water stone and a #12000 Grit Ceramic (Cream) Shapton water stone with the Nagura Stone for the slurry. I have watch Mr. Lynn Abrams CD a couple of times and I am using hot towels, bager brush, tablet soap, etc. I got a 2.5 inches cow leather strop (not the best one, but a Big daddy is on the way). I have used the pyramid process sequence using different sequences of repetitions with the 4k/8k and 12K stone. Yet, I can see micro chips on the edge and the blade cuts but it pulls. Also the nail tumb test appers slightly bumpy Also I have strop the blade prior shaving. When I shave the blade cuts the hair but it pulls and after a couple of passes I still do not get a smooth shave as I do with a commercial twin blade which I hope to stop using it them in the future. I realized my technique is not the best but I am learning. I hope to hear from some of you and thank you for considering my request.

A little frustrated, but eager to learn.

Swicth59

Your "non-visible micro-chipping" might be nothing more than an incomplete bevel set. You might try going back to 4K and staying there until the "micro-chipping" disappears. At that point you can do the pyramid or just go to 8K, then 12K, then strop and see how it shaves.

Ace:

Thank you for taking time and responding to my request.

I would recommend sending the razor to someone who can put a really nice edge on it for you. Once it's been made shave ready it should only need an occasional visit to the 12k to keep it in good condition, in the mean time buy a cheap old straight to play around with on the 4k/8k.

Well, whether it's the chips or not the fact is the blade should not pull so something is amiss there. As to what to do you need to determine the condition the bevel is in first. If that's the culprit you need to redo it. If it appears to be good then it might be the chips and those can be honed out. Depending on how many chips there are and how tiny they are that may not be the factor either and the razor may just need additional honing.

You have to explore every possibility otherwise you wind up doing what many others do and start from scratch and do way more than you need to. After you access the problem that will dictate the mechanics of what needs to be done.

Like others said it sounds you need to make sure you set the bevel right. Since you are setting the bevel on a 4k it can take a little longer, use a little pressure and do Lynns 40 circle technique but after the the 4k use as little of pressure as possible. Before you move on from each stone make sure you replaced the scratch pattern completely. Don't move on from the 4k until it will start to pop hairs off your arm and do the thumb pad test and it should catch your thumb pad almost like a sticky feeling.

I might be misreading your original post, but did you use the thumbnail test after using higher grits? This test is something that you should only do while trying to set your bevel (and you'll need to do more work afterwards on your bevel setting hone in order to make up for dulling your edge with your thumbnail--maybe 5-10 strokes depending on the hone)

If you run your edge across your thumbnail after higher grits it will actually dull the edge, which might cause some of your problems.

If I read your first post wrong, then disregard all of this, and see the posts above mine for some good suggestions :)

1st congratulations on your straight razor journey. I like to refer to this as a journey because it truly is. You will learn much along the way and it doesn't all necessarily come easily (not rocket science, just takes time). Based on your description of your gear, I would suggest checking out this thread for some helpful tips on using the Norton 4k/8k combo : http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...on-2012-a.html I would further suggest that you stay away from the 12k hone until you are getting good shaves off of the 8k (IMHO). There are many videos in the linked thread that will likely help as far as honing goes. In regards to testing, the thumb nail test is only to check a set bevel after that arm hair or thumb pad (skin) test are all that should be used. The HHT is only helpful if you have previously calibrated it on your hair with a shave ready razor and IMHO isn't of much value. Best of luck and let us know how it turns out :tu
Glenn

If you've done the thumbnail test at the 12k stage you will have to reset the bevel. It is a damaging test reserved for bevel set stage @1k-2k.

If you have microchips you have not set the bevel yet, unless the steel is faulty & chips regardless. You can cause chips also by too much pressure on the hones.
If you have a ragged burr this can also appear as microchips but disappears after the TNT or a light swipe on glass. You then, would also need to reset the bevel, maybe with less strokes &/or pressure.

A burr can also form if one side of the bevel is considerably wider than the other & the edge folds over.. Poor grinds &/or warped spines are related to this last point.

Watch this video:
gssixgun Honing on a Norton 4-8 - YouTube

Thanks for taking time regarding my post, youare correct, I did used the thumb nail after the 12k run. I will take notice on your kind advice.

Thank you for taking time and responding to my request. I will look into the problem and all the opportunities that it will bring.

Thank you for taking time and responding to my request. Yes, I did used the 12K, as I reflect on my actions I could have used more pressure than needed it.

Thanks for the video,

Thanks for the welcoming words and advise. I will look into the video and will let you know on my progress.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by swicth59

When I shave the blade cuts the hair but it pulls and after a couple of passes I still do not get a smooth shave as I do with a commercial twin blade which I hope to stop using it them in the future. Swicth59

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Comparing the perceived sharpness of a straight to a commercial twin blade for a beginner is not possible. You really need to be a straight razor shaver before passing judgement on the sharpness of your straight razor shaving test.

Get a pro-honed straight and learn to use it first before going any further. You cannot fumble thru it, believe me I've tried. A beginner sharpening his own razor will NEVER know if the problems he is having are due to the sharpness of the blade, or lack of technique. Even with a microscope, or hanging hair, or tpt... You are just setting yourself up for a long time of frustration.

Enjoy,
Jeff.
:gl:

Those "chips" you refer to can be a bugger. If you dont have a 1k stone to help set the bevel quicker get some 600 grit wet dry sandpaper, soak a sheet with your hone and wrap the paper tightly around the stone.
Instead of testing on my thumbnail, I simply make sure the razor will easily shave arm hair at every part on the bevel before going to the 4k- also making sure there are no chips left under magnification.
Good luck


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Jeff:
Thank you for sharing your past experience with me and I look forward to shave with a pro-honed razor. Anyone thta you recommend for honing my blade?

Thanks,
Swicth

Thanks for the tip. I have a 1K stone and after powdering with the 4K I am considering going to the 1K and elimanate the chips.

Thanks,
Swicth

A number of members offer honing services here : Member Services - Straight Razor Place Classifieds

Thanks for the information. I will look into it.

You have sure got lots of help here! I agree with most and think that practising with a cheap old straight on the 4k/8k is a good idea. You should only try to use your dovo on the 12k to maintain the edge. Although your strop should do most of the work to maintain! :) hope you get it right

I totally agreed, I have gotten great advise and I have kept all of it in my files. I am working to get it right.

Thanks